This S12 host turns out to be very modding friendly. Put there 3x XP-E2 red 620nm - very nice beam, large hotspot but still throwy.
This is going to be my summer torch since it should not attract insects.
Yes, stock, just the leds swapped. I use single Xp-e2 in my rear bike light, pulsate up to 4,2A. Works 2 years now, no issues.
So I expect here no issues either…
My experience with XP-E2 red is very positive. I’ve made oround 5 pcs of bike rear light for me and friends. Lights driven by by drivers from intl-outdoor, some work with added AMCs to raise current to 4,2A (those work in blinking mode). None of these leds ever caused problems. All work fine up to this day, some for nearly 2 years.
could you send some photos of bike rear redlight you made? I plan to do some light as well. Still not sure, what driver to use and how to solve a slow blink mod.
HI. Pictures won’t tell you much. Regular S2+ Convoy with wide beam Carclo lens (120deg i believe). The key is the driver. It’s custom made based on one from intl-outdoor. You can buy it Here or I can send you contact and manual in Polish.
The driver can be configured. Many blinking and pulsating options.
I think, it’s not possible with actual drivers. And they need an e-switch of cause.
Flashlights with e-switch are: M3, S9, L6, H1
Some other side-switch flashlights has reverse clicky, like BD-series or M4U
I would love to see more BLF-drivers in convoy-flashlights.
I really wish it had a ramping FW on it… That light begs for it. Should be a compact monster, heat will be an issue. I really like the battery cap or what ever you want to call it.
I’ll try and help the best I can. I converted an M1 to a forward clicky. I have not seen the S12 in person and I don’t know how similar it is, switch wise, to the M1. Also when I did my conversion I used a forward clicky from MTNelectronics (for what it is worth I really like that switch and I’ll provide a link below). So with those caveats in mind, here is what I did that I would guess you would need to as well.
I removed the old switch and soldered the new one on. I then had to open up the washer just a smidge and I removed the nipple from inside the boot. I was recommended to use snips and not try and cut it out. I did just that and it worked fine. None of it was too hard. The switch I used was slightly tricky to line up and I had to remove it from the pcb it came on. I hope that helps.