Very roughly:
- SAW is a bit more energy efficient, giving some more lumens
- SOL is the best of the two for color rendition.
Some news around the Ultra High CRI table :
- As proposed in one of my previous post, I've committed the tweak on the "BLF Bulb Quality factor" formula
- Following Barkuti's proposal, I've isolated the bulbs with some missing data in a separated zone
- I'm working on integrated Joshk's results
- I added the latest review of Maukka. Those new bulbs, coming from "Ligthning Arena" ranked #3 (A- grade) and #11 (B grade). Many thanks to Maukka for his task!
any!
Guys, once those tryout bulbs will be received, could you give us an update here and tell us if there are any manufacturer / brand name associated to those ones? Also if you know someone with a spectrometer on hand, you know what to do...
Great! Looking forward to it. :+1:
just a bit of creative advertising
Wellp, it's certainly creative but somewhat lacks appropriateness. Even if funny looking being judgemental may not feel right to some. Something tells me you wouldn't use such advertising, or would you? Just that.
By the way, how about upgrading Miss Shite's emitters to SAW/SOL? :-D
It should say “Do you want to protect your eyes” or maybe just “protect your eyes”
Really I do’t know if the violent wavelengths does other kinds of harm since shorter wavelengths are more energetic.
I asked my daughter’s optometrist if my high power LED flashlights were at risk of causing eye damage to her if she played with them. He said no, they don’t emit UV or IR, so no worries. And from what I saw with my spectrometer, the output was nothing at the edges of vision. So basically, your reflexes will detect and prevent any damage.
No, not violet (~380 to ~450 nm wavelength light). It’s more purple or pink, created by combining red and blue. Purple doesn’t have a wavelength; it only exists as a sum of two other colors.
Duv is the overall tint in relation to the blackbody line. In a white spectrum, pure white is shown by the dotted line here. On one side of the line is green, and on the other side is pink:
Most people prefer slightly pink lights, so it is desirable to produce a tint with a negative duv value.
One of the easiest ways to make a pink tint is to combine LEDs which are far apart in color temperature. When blended, the mixture falls below the pure white line. For example, this shows the colors which can be created by mixing pure white 5000K and 2700K:
It works because the color space is curved, but the mixed tint line is straight. But to work well, the two tints should be far apart. Mixing 4000K and 4500K would not accomplish much, but mixing 3000K and 5500K should look very nice.
One of the reason why I will use 3030 sunlike leds (finally) in 8w cheap model was color mixing (another was price and much more power than their old 3030)
I use 4000k, it is better for me than 5000k, but! but 4300-4200 will more better than 4000k. So, now I can mix any colors.
For example 3:1, 2:1, 1:1
For example, 5600-5700 is not white, it is with blue tint (that is I feeling)
Most white for my eyes was when I mixed 5600 and 4000 (SOL) to 5200-5300k. It was most white color what I saw without blue tint (color shade)
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And of course, you can mix any colors for duv what you want =)
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upd
Hello, peoples of the flat Earth!
Well done! about 6 hours (for this board)
120-240-360-480mA or etc with NSI constant Current Regulators (yes, it is not cheap)
from 18v to 25v
also you can give 12v if instead of 1 LED, you will set a jumper (wire)
also you can use led driver if you will set a jumper (wire) except CCR
12×99×1.6mm m3 holes
also you can cut up to 1.5+mm from the both sides
50%G (Grower)
G≈$
This bulb is now reviewed here:
Added to the table!
I took its best result (so 2700K): currently ranked #21 with a BLF Qfactor of 78 and a C- grade. Its clearly better than the previous Trådfri you reviewed earlier, but it is let down by its R9.
Do you just eyeball the R12 values? For the Ikea it was easy, but I could post the test results on pastebin in the future if that helps.
Kinda, I "pixelball" those, counting pixels thanks to paint.net ruler
If you have an easy way to give me the exact actual values of your R12 tests, pastebin could do, it sure will polish the table and perfect its targetted "scientifism". And it sure helps ! 
Yeah, all the CRI R# values are listed there under #CRI Data. R12 on line 66.
Look what I found guys and gals, for about 15$US:
https://lumicrest.com/product/pro-series-high-cri-dimmable-led-gu10/
CRI95+ rated too.
Also something else that looks superb for Canadians:
Aha, you failed to mention that you do not want kerosine light sources, so here is a high CRI entry: an Aladdin no#23 (with Lox-On mantle) on full power:
CCT=2720K, duv=+0.0027, CRI=97.9, R9=94, R12=94, Rf=96.8, Rg=97.6
