^ Thanks — it’s actually quite feasible. I tried to make it based mostly on the FW3A with just some “accents.” You could mix/match parts from the raw aluminum & copper FW3A. The bezel is a separate part that could be easily turned on a lathe as a complete part, or stainless steel “rings” attached to an existing raw aluminum bezel. The body “fins” could be created a few different ways. I’d see a “sleeve” created that could slide down over the tube. With rubber backing it would have some cushioning for a snug fit. It’s all very, very doable.
One other thing I’d do is remove the clip and replace it with the steel ring being sold. Then just attach a triangular metal ring to it to simulate the one on the prop lightsaber.
Well, tomorrow in the post an engraver is arriving - I used to do engraving on military parts many years ago by hand (like hundreds of thousands of items) if I re-find my old skills, an all over engraved light may (BIG may) could be in the pipeline sometime! I have 2 x Utorch A6 clones to destroy practice on.
Well, it was just serial numbers - but that said it looks easy (or so I thought) but when it’s got to be done to a standard, and legible - doing it is another kettle of fish. Took me a good year to master just writing neatly really.
I am good at drawing so I’m hoping the 2 will meet in the middle somewhere! This inspired me to try - link
Thanks to all of you for figuring this out. I just tried the o-ring. It takes my favorite light up a notch or two. It is great now. I might experiment with some of the other suggestions also. The extra firmness is great as well as the additional loudness.
Thank you JaredM for figuring out this oring mod. I had intentions of using the FW3A as a work tool, and this was not happening with the hair trigger stock switch.
BTW, anyone noticed that if you unscrew the body of fw3a it’ll start to light up and ramp up? is there a short some where on mine, or is this expected?
It seems that there is some extra pressure somewhere in the switch, or some short if it starts to ramp by itself.
Go back to the tailcap and re-check it, otherwise it may turn ON accidentally and…you know that it will burn something!
It wasn’t the tail switch. I was able to fix it by twisting the head back and forth several times, I felt some rough spots and when it is gone it no longer do that. I think the driver design is using various voltage as signal to turn on and off etc, so when the head circuit gets cut off temporarily it got mislead. So dirt or bad contact can cause this. Or so I assume.