I asked my daughter’s optometrist if my high power LED flashlights were at risk of causing eye damage to her if she played with them. He said no, they don’t emit UV or IR, so no worries. And from what I saw with my spectrometer, the output was nothing at the edges of vision. So basically, your reflexes will detect and prevent any damage.
No, not violet (~380 to ~450 nm wavelength light). It’s more purple or pink, created by combining red and blue. Purple doesn’t have a wavelength; it only exists as a sum of two other colors.
Duv is the overall tint in relation to the blackbody line. In a white spectrum, pure white is shown by the dotted line here. On one side of the line is green, and on the other side is pink:
Most people prefer slightly pink lights, so it is desirable to produce a tint with a negative duv value.
One of the easiest ways to make a pink tint is to combine LEDs which are far apart in color temperature. When blended, the mixture falls below the pure white line. For example, this shows the colors which can be created by mixing pure white 5000K and 2700K:
It works because the color space is curved, but the mixed tint line is straight. But to work well, the two tints should be far apart. Mixing 4000K and 4500K would not accomplish much, but mixing 3000K and 5500K should look very nice.
One of the reason why I will use 3030 sunlike leds (finally) in 8w cheap model was color mixing (another was price and much more power than their old 3030)
I use 4000k, it is better for me than 5000k, but! but 4300-4200 will more better than 4000k. So, now I can mix any colors.
For example 3:1, 2:1, 1:1
For example, 5600-5700 is not white, it is with blue tint (that is I feeling)
Most white for my eyes was when I mixed 5600 and 4000 (SOL) to 5200-5300k. It was most white color what I saw without blue tint (color shade)
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And of course, you can mix any colors for duv what you want =)
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upd
Hello, peoples of the flat Earth!
Well done! about 6 hours (for this board)
120-240-360-480mA or etc with NSI constant Current Regulators (yes, it is not cheap)
from 18v to 25v
also you can give 12v if instead of 1 LED, you will set a jumper (wire)
also you can use led driver if you will set a jumper (wire) except CCR
12×99×1.6mm m3 holes
also you can cut up to 1.5+mm from the both sides
50%G (Grower)
G≈$
This bulb is now reviewed here:
Added to the table!
I took its best result (so 2700K): currently ranked #21 with a BLF Qfactor of 78 and a C- grade. Its clearly better than the previous Trådfri you reviewed earlier, but it is let down by its R9.
Do you just eyeball the R12 values? For the Ikea it was easy, but I could post the test results on pastebin in the future if that helps.
Kinda, I "pixelball" those, counting pixels thanks to paint.net ruler 
If you have an easy way to give me the exact actual values of your R12 tests, pastebin could do, it sure will polish the table and perfect its targetted "scientifism". And it sure helps ! 
Yeah, all the CRI R# values are listed there under #CRI Data. R12 on line 66.
Look what I found guys and gals, for about 15$US:
https://lumicrest.com/product/pro-series-high-cri-dimmable-led-gu10/
CRI95+ rated too.
Also something else that looks superb for Canadians:
Aha, you failed to mention that you do not want kerosine light sources, so here is a high CRI entry: an Aladdin no#23 (with Lox-On mantle) on full power:
CCT=2720K, duv=+0.0027, CRI=97.9, R9=94, R12=94, Rf=96.8, Rg=97.6
Curious, +0.0027 Duv. Would you call that green yellow?
Wonderful, as I understand, yttirium derived mantles looked rather green. Thorium derived mantle lights improved the color removing some of the green. These lights are , nonetheless, adored by those that live near them—Berlin residents. Berlin still uses 30,000 gas mantle lights in its streets. Here are some sample pictures. The 9-11 mantle lights throw around quite a bit of light, rivaling some electrical lighting systems. The 4 mantle lights look good for residential, you don’t want to light up peoples’ homes like a baseball park.
As I also understand, the Coleman dual mantle lanterns also produce some 850 lumens of warm white light, even outperforming the BLF LT1!
It does look rather yellow indeed, nothing of the rosiness that people here prefer. If this type of lighting ever takes off you can recognise BLF folks by a minus-green chimney 
This might be of interest to some. Not the first time the 500W Yuji is tested though.
If someone want LED with high cri without violet. For example, I am going to do lamp for nail extsntion
I will get more deteiled result tomorrow. I think it is almost CRI97. It is the same manufacturer what produce SOLs — SmartEcoLightning
Ahah! Well done, kinda got me there. Well, well, well what mention should I add to disqualify those solutions?
- I do not want to become radioactive?
- I want lights to be able to run from sustainable energy sources?
- "No Amish tech"?
Something that's bothering me since the start. I thought that SOL and SAW were both produced by SSC, but manufactured in different countries. But now I'm understanding that:
- SAW are made by Seoul SemiConductor / Toshiba (Korea/Japan) : violet crystal tech
- SOL are made by SmartEco Lighting (China) : blue & violet crystal tech
Is it right?
Yes. SOL is from China. It is not TRI-R technologies
And is there any relation between SSC and Smart Eco Lighting companies ?