[M4D deal] Nightwatch NI40 with Luminus SBT90 Gen2 interest list OPEN

Here is what I measured with the Baby Blue LiitoKala (didn’t measure the voltage at the time) and I haven’t been really following this thread as of late… this is what I got…

1. 37lm

2. 505lm

3. 948lm

4. 1680lm

5. Dbl Tap - Turbo … (while in Turbo) Dbl Tap - Strobe

. It has memory so in lowest level, I double tap - Turbo - off, and repeated this Low- double tap Turbo off quite a few times and it never failed. I cycled thru the 4 modes many times, no hiccups. Got the light screaming hot, and repeated the above thinking maybe heat might make it wonky… never failed?

The inside’s…

Checked the shelf and board for flatness….a little stoning…… not too shabby… now what to do with all these pieces…. :open_mouth:

Can you try turning it off on turbo and see if it turns back on in turbo? When you do this, please check with your lumen tube, because high mode looks very similar to turbo mode. Can you do this 5 or more times
To be sure. All 5 of my samples have wonky memory. It will probably turn on in turbo mode three out of ten times.

I ordered mine on Oct 25. Should I continue waiting? I haven’t received any shipping info

How is that improvising? That's how I'd expect a reverse clicky to work. Either the driver memorizes turbo (to be determined I suppose? might be wonky) so you can access it from off once memorized OR, if it doesn't, of course you'll have to switch it on (full click) before telling it to go into turbo (double half-press/"tap"). A reverse clicky opens the circuit no matter if you fully click it or just half-press, to the driver it looks the same (it just loses power). It's just faster to half-press, hence probably many people have issues accessing turbo mode cause they're either doing full-presses ("clicks") or they're just not fast enough doing double taps - at least to me it sounds that way from the last few people reporting.

I have not had it happen in the low mode, but now that I’m trying it from the other 3 modes yes I had it memorize Turbo a few times last night…seen some other weird stuff also…

. Like this… turn on in each mode, dbl tap Turbo, single tap out, I get this…

. Level 1 turn on 33lm, dbl tap Turbo, single tap out of Turbo, 50lm, shut off, turn on 33lm.

. Level 2 470lm Turbo, single out 88lm, shut off turn on 468lm

. Level 3 888lm Turbo, single out 167lm, shut off turn on, 903lm

. Level 4 1600lm, Turbo, single out 328lm shut off turn on, 1606lm

. I’m seeing some of the wonky-ness now… :slight_smile:

Guess I’m late to the party but Would sure like to be included here if possible, looks awesome!

Dale, KB - you guys would probably be interested in the discussions here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/59274 on another potential SBT-90.2 light.

Maybe Martin can find out more about the HL light being discussed.

I don’t know if I will be still alive :cry: to see it come to fruition due to the massive time consuming, opinion driven idea heavy process of being all BL-F’d up… :person_facepalming:

Plenty of Fins, Big reflector, Massive chunk of Copper and it’s 4P…. whats not to like, Lexel can make me a killer driver if I cant get this one to (ahem) perform…

I’m thinking this will get done sooner… prolly… :smiley:

Because It is terminology misperception between the dealers site”A CLICK” and doing a HALF PRESS as members have mentioned.

That was my point. :wink:

Thanks Tom, if the emitters were more readily available I’d just build my own. Already have the CFT-90 under a 95mm reflector and am duly impressed… even just using a single 32650 and Bistro driver.

I like the idea of using this light for this emitter, just haven’t been building lights lately so it’s much easier to get it pre-built. If I’m too late I may just rebuild the one I have…

Dang, I should have asked you before ordering, but I got in 3 SBT-90.2's mounted on 20 mm MCPCB's but total cost was $150: $36 each, $35 in shipping, $6.50 in PP fee, probably could have saved money with a bigger order.

To order them, contact: wendy@lantend.com. I ordered P/N: SBT-90-WDS-F72-SA600, where SA was the higher bin, the other they offered being the RB bin. Of course we don't know the bin of the SBT-90.2's in this N40 light, or any other SBT-90.2 for that matter. SBT-90.2 Spec sheet here on my google drive share - Wendy sent it to me.

So, from the spec sheet and part #, this should be ~5700K, what they call Daylight ("D") as opposed to cool white ("C").

Interesting thing is the RB is the lowest bin, then SA, then there are 5 more higher bins!

Just received and tested mine. NI40 was tested with a brand new Molicel P42A which I charged yesterday. I used 2 24x30x2mm copper rings but haven’t sanded them yet so the perfomance should be slightly better once i’ve done that. Still have to clean all the other contacts too. The Astrolux FT03 was tested with an almost fully charged button top shockli but the glass is cracked and the reflector is slightly smudged from when I cleaned it with a kitchen towel (roll). Don’t think its affecting the perfomance that much though. So on to the numbers.

Ceiling Bounce:

FT03: 350
NI40: 660
NI40 High: Just under 300

Intensity:

about 3% less than the FT03

I will do more tests later with both lights. The FT03 should perform slightly better with a fully charged shockli flat top and the NI40 should also perform better once I’ve cleaned the contacts and rings. I did not have any problem getting into turbo. For me the trick is to half press it twice without thinking about the light flashing. At first i was waiting for it go to the next mode after the first press but that’s not what happens. After the first half press you dont see any light then the second click goes to turbo on the second half press. You just have to do it fast enough. If you wait too long it’ll just go to the next mode.

Note: For those using copper rings for 21700 compatibility please close the head side first then insert the cell and screw the tailcap on. When removing the cell also open the tail side like you’re supposed to. If you open the head there is risk of the copper ring moving and shorting the cell!

Just fyi, I finished the mod of a SBT90.2 in a 1504 zoomie, using a spare 1504 brass pill, 17 mm SIR800DP based driver, 22 AWG wires (small because of concerns with soldering in tight spaces). "Only" got about 21A max out of it but it does over 500 kcd measured at 5m, and not sure it's fully focused. Got some pics, hope can post soon.

Ok so I sanded the rings and retested with fully charged cells. Dont know if they’re sanded properly but they look much better than before.

NI40
Shockli: 685 @ 3s
P42A : 769 @ 3s, 730 @ 30s, 723 @ 40s

FT03
Shockli: 387 @ 3s

Neither cell dropped much at 30s Throw at 5 seconds turn on was about 3% less than the FT03 with the P42A. After a few turbo runs I still got almost 700 so the output doesn’t seem to drop much as the cell voltage does. Nagonka got 32% higher than shockli with a 40T. I got only 11-12% Maybe it’s the copper rings that are adding resistance. I want to try it with only one ring but I’m scared I might dent the battery.

Edit: Forgot to add that the turbo lasted for 1 min 15 sec before I felt the need to step it down. At this point I could touch the head for almost a second. Probably a bit under 60 degrees. This was when the battery was getting a bit low so the output was the same as a full shockli.

If you can’t be bothered to read the above post

Turbo: Double of FT03 with Molicel P42A and copper rings to make the cell fit. 80% more than FT03 with shockli 5500.

Manual step down at 1:15

Intensity: About the same as FT03

Got the SBT-90.2 Stalker tonight. Did some quick tests, stock setup.

On a new Shockli 26650 at 4.19V: 17.3A, 217 kcd (taken at 5 m), Tom E lumens: 4760-4440, or calibrated: 4200-3920 (at start - 30 secs)

Other measurements:

  • LK 5000 @4.07V: 16A, 205 kcd
  • 40T @4.17V: 19.3A (40T taken w/o tail)
  • iJoy 26650 4200: 16.9A
  • Aspire 26650 4300: 17.0A

No problems really for switching to turbo - did it several times. Coming out of turbo there's a flicker though. I much prefer my own custom 4 mode 13A firmware, where changing modes always starts at lowest, but it has mode memory. So for example if you are on medium, quick click goes to moon, next quick click goes to low, etc. This allows you to avoid the blast of hi/turbo, and no reason to have a special quirky double click for turbo (ugh).

Guess I'm just spoiled...

Update:

The GOLISI finished charging, results:

GOLISI @4.21V: 20.2A, 237 kcd (taken at 5 m), Tom E lumens: 5240-4730, or calibrated: 4620-4180 (at start - 30 secs)

Hhmm. This seems to happen quite often - the throw #'s are close to the rating while the measured lumens are low. I'm sure the spring bypasses will help, as KB did.

Have you also measured the FT03? I’m getting only 80% more than it with the shockli. The FT03 is meant to be under 2000 so that would make it less than 3600. All of the cells you tested perform about the same as each other which is strange. Could it be the wires or spring that’s limiting the performance?

Yes - I got a FT03 SST-40 NW (it's important to note what model) that I measured. Amp readings on full cells was between 8 and 9.5A at the max.

On the 30T @4.21V: 9.5A, 253 kcd (taken at 5m), 2450-2160, calibrated: 2270-2004

Checking my notes, I see little difference from a LK 5000 cell, similar to a Shockli. Maybe 100-200 lumens less, ~240 kcd.

Anyone notice those 6 tube slots under the fins? Large trits? Maybe some passive or active cooling attachment designed to fit them? It's interesting for sure...

3x22.5's from Mixglo might fit.