My favorite genre of movies are horror, and thriller/suspense types. As soon as a movie character pulls out a flashlight, I lose focus on the movie plot, and immediately start analyzing the torch. Does anybody else here do the same?
One thing that I have picked up on in movies, is when a modern day movie that is based on the past (1950s - 1990s for example), the flashlights are always really bright, and have a good amount of throw. Nothing like what flashlights were really like back in the day. I never picked up on this until I got into flashlights this year. LOL.
Wellp, watching old-timey teevee shows like “The Saint” , you can see what they had to do to get any light to show at all.
Eg, he’d pull out a penlight (wonderful how even Simon Templar EDCed a small light!) and shine around the room to try to find the hidden safe, etc. Someone off-screen would be shining a small spotlight around the room, trying to follow where Simon was shining his light. You could even see the eerie off-angle shadows being cast, but hey, that was high-tek back then.
My Lumintop FW3A arrived today. I only have one 18650 battery, and it is a Sofirn 3.7v 3000mAh button top (very small button at that, but never the less…). It works in the Sorfirn SP32A V2, of course, and it works in the Convoy C8+. So, I put it in the FW3A, and no go.
I read the owners manual and sure enough, an unprotected 18650 flat top with high drain (10A or more) is recommended. Ok fine, I have a Samsung 35E 18650 unprotected flat top battery scheduled to arrive tomorrow from the Liion store. Now I am learning a lesson about Li-ion batteries, so I go online to double check what exactly I ordered. Yep, it is a unprotected flat top 18650 battery, but it states it is only 8A, but also says up to 13A manufacturer pulse rating. Another problem I just caught was the SAMSUNG 35E is not recommended for high drain devices, and it measures a length of 65.3 mm, and the Lumintop manuals says the maximum supported length is 65 mm.
Question: Can I use the Samsung 35E in the Lumintop? Or did I just learn an expensive lesson in li-ion batteries.
I am currently using 35E’s in 8 different FW3’s, so yes, you might get a little more output from a 30Q but not for very long as it will heat up very fast and step down.
The Sofirn should work, it just may not hold up to turbo. Unless you’re saying it didn’t fit?
The 35E should be fine, though I’d personally recommend a 30Q.
The Samsung 35E is perfect for this light. 35E, LG MJ-1 and Sanyo GA are the perfect top three. The extra capacity is impressive, and there is no chance your eyes will notice any difference in brightness vs a higher drain, lower capacity cell. Exxellent choice.
I think the one thing your missing is that the FW3A manual just doesn’t go into enough detail. It should say something like “unprotected 18650 flat top with high drain (10A or more) is recommended for maximum output”.
The reason the 35E is not recommended for high drain devices is it’s chemical mix is optimized for max capacity. This means it’s internal resistance is a bit higher than say a “high drain” cell so it won’t pull as many amps. You can read more about battery ratings on this older post and the one below it.
Hi guys, I have a question regarding flashing firmware. I am about to flash my Astrolux MF01 mini to correct some voltage reading problems and founf myself at deadend. I managed to find some instruction from toykeeper and I did this:
I downloaded the branch “lp:~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/fsm” from: Flashlight Firmware Repository in Launchpad because it had the code for Astrolux/Mateminco MF01 MINI. I Unzipped the tarball and found the file I needed to adjust to correct the Voltage measurement:
Now that I have it, how do I run the make command in the fsm\ToyKeeper\spaghetti-monster\anduril folder?
Do I need a special compiler (I am using windows)? The instructions I found said: “the code can then be built by going into the anduril directory and running “make”. This compiles one .hex file for each cfg-*.h file it finds.”
I dont know if this is the best place for a flashing question. I would also ask on a thread that talks about flashing drivers. Your more likely to get your answer.
I recently ordered a protected Panasonic ncr18650ga 3500mah cell it didn’t register on my charger. so today I put it on the charger again and it registered at 1.73v which concerned me. I’ve got it up to 2.23v now, should I try to get it above 3v or not?
Let’s say 3 or 4A in a multiple led direct drive setup.
I just thought it would be some sort of DTP if you scrape away the central part of the 3535 footprint and add enough solder to get a direct connection to the copper of the board. Does that make sense?
Mmm, I see “10mm” and I’m thinking an AAA light. :laughing:
It’d work, but solder (Pb/Sn) isn’t the best of thermal conductors. Grind away too much to expose the Cu underneath, and you may have less conductivity vs leaving it alone. Plus, be sure to have an “overflow channel” so excess solder can squish out and the LED doesn’t float on the molten solder.
Someone did tests of various thermal compounds vs just squishing down (via screws) the board dry, and there was negligible difference.
Me personally, I’d leave ’em as-is. Combination of laziness and diminishing returns…
, you can see what they had to do to get any light to show at all.