Emisar D4V2 Flash Kit Instructions (Official How To)

Ulp…

That’s different than mine…

I had to open mine up and use a clip on the chip, no flashing pads.

Thanks, cuberS.

Has Hank Wang confirmed that the Emisar D1 now uses ATTiny1634 and has the same flashing arrangement (similar to D4v2)?
Or is this just an “honest error” (D4v2 board installed on a D1 flashlight)?

As another data point, I ordered 2 D1’s from Hank on 10/19. Both utilize the same flashing pads as my D4V2’s. When attempting to flash with anduril.emisar-d1.hex, I end up with a D1 that does not work. When flashing with anduril.emisar-d4v2.hex, I end up with a functioning light.

It’s working. :slight_smile:
I just flashed my own variant of Andruil.

It’s a really big deal for me because previously I put a lot of effort into making USBASP working - and I failed. :slight_smile:

Sorry if this is a stupid question. I have ordered the reflash kit for my d4sv2. where does one find the latest firmware version to download.

I’m sure it’s in the thread elsewhere, but here is the URL:

http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/

Thank you.

Just reflashed three D4V2s using this guide. Worked great. :sunglasses:

What’s new in the 11-24-19 release for the D4v2?

cuberS,

I posted a question about this in the firmware development thread. It seems that there are a few others that have noticed a new driver in the D1. ToyKeeper’s reply is here:

It may be helpful.

Help please.
I have downloaded Zflasher, I have the reflash kit and have got the latest firmware downloaded onto my phone. I bought the otg adapter from intl outdoors but it was for USB C. I bought this from eBay
Standard Micro USB Host OTG adapter, can be used for connecting devices like memory sticks, hard drives(need external power support), mouse, card reader, keyboard etc. to your compatible phone & tablet.

compatible with modern device:

Samsung Galaxy S2/SII/SIII/S4/i9100

ASUS Google Nexus 7(2nd Gen)/10

HTC One

Tesco HUDL

Galaxy TAB 3

Nokia N810/N9

Most of Android Tablets

When I attempt the download it comes up with “completed with errors”.

Can anyone help.

Most notably, the light wasn’t always responding to button press. In rare cases, it won’t come on. It now always does.

I have had that happen to me, and the simplest answer is maybe you are accidentally wiggling the connector.

If you can hold it very still, and try to flash it again that could work.

I tried several times before I got it to complete without errors.

Unless there is more wrong that I don’t know about, you should try this a few times… Just trying to hold the connector pins steady.

Took quite a bit of learning and time but it was more than worth it. Thanks Terry Oregon for this guide.

Finally got around to trying this. Used Win10 on the work laptop since I don’t have an android phone and don’t feel like installing Xcode or homebrew on the iMac.

Two verification fail errors using reading glasses and pushing halfway down. Then, using the Optivisor and pushing all the way down on the pogo pins: success. Yay.

Not sure if I did the factory reset properly. Held it down waiting for a flash, but it did a bunch of things and I just kept holding it down until a few seconds after it stopped doing anything different. I hadn’t changed it from defaults apart from aux settings. Those reset, so I guess it all did.

How to do thermal config? Tried the diagram and could get into config mode but failed at setting anything properly. Haven’t played with anything but Zebralights for a long time now. I use the FW3A more than my 3 Emisar D4, but in only the most basic way. The D4V2 has spent the last months in aux high blue mode on top of a clear plastic decoration. It is very pretty. I have the D4S, with cyan aux LEDs on the other side of the decoration. Even prettier. Before that, I mostly used the D4V2 in candle mode with an hour timer to go to sleep. Beautiful, but now I seem to have a large collection of LED candles vs just the one, so not so much need.

Now I see there’s a D4SV2, along with a FW21 I just ordered (bah, no 3000 or 4000K option). Lovely.

So, anyway, had to dig up the text manual for Anduril and now I get it. Wonderful, no more bug in a mode I never use, but since I waited so long I get … some other fixes. And satisfaction. I’ve been playing a lot with an Arduino Mega and the much nicer ESP32 (built in WiFi!) but command line is a bit more hardcore than the Arduino IDE. There is a GUI for avrdude but I haven’t played with it. I’d kinda like to flash my two D4 to Anduril but I’m not taking them apart to get to the chip.

The D4S has pads in a different arrangement I think. And I have no idea if it is D4 type or Anduril type interface. Probably will leave it alone unless I could buy a set of pogos (or a kit thereof) that fit it.

Anyway, thanks to all involved. Cool light, and had fun with the little bit of effort it took to reprogram it.

For anyone else, here’s the bit of instructions I need that wasn’t in this thread (or I didn’t see it):

Every config mode has the same interface. The menu has one or more
options the user can configure, and it will go through them in order.
For each menu item, the light will follow the same pattern:

- Blink one or more times, corresponding to the item number.

- Stutter or “buzz” quickly between two brightness levels for a few
seconds. This indicates that the user can click one or more times
to enter a number. It will keep buzzing until the user stops
clicking, so there is no need to hurry.

- Pause, and then go to the next option.

After the light has gone through all of the menu options, it should
return to whatever mode the light was in before entering the config
mode.

If the user doesn’t press a button during a menu item’s “buzz” phase,
that item remains unchanged from its previous value.

Maybe instead of using commands in Windows maybe something like AVRDUDESS could be used as it has an interface?

What do you think?

Just flashed attiny85 with Zflasher, works like a charm

Thank you for the guide was able to update the d4v2 an d1.

These are excellent instructions, Terry! Thank you for all the work you put into making them clear, detailed, well-illustrated, and easy to follow! As someone with an aptitude for and some experience with technical writing, and writing instructions in particular, I can appreciate good work.

I used your instructions to update the firmware on my D4V2 and I ran into only one difficulty, which was my mistake, but I want to share it in case anyone else has the same trouble.

First, though, I want to remind everyone of the importance of performing the factory reset after updating, or at least rechecking the thermometer calibration. My flashlight’s thermometer was calibrated correctly when I first checked it, and while I can’t remember, that was probably before the update. I did not perform a factory reset after the update, and I just found that it was reading 8° low! After the factory reset I just performed, the thermometer was correct to within a couple degrees. I then calibrated it a little more accurately.

Anyway, while first installing AVRDUDE, I installed it into the AVRDUDE directory I created, carelessly deleting the auto-created MHV AVR Tools subdirectory in the Setup dialog’s installation path (I changed the installation path to “c:\AVRDUDE” instead of “c:\AVRDUDE\MHV AVR Tools”). For some reason, this seemed to cause avrdude.exe not to be found. And I looked in the directory and it was indeed not there. It is, in fact, in the bin subdirectory, not in the main install directory, and the command window found and ran it when I installed the application into the MHV AVR Tools subdirectory that was auto-created. I finally figured that out during one of my reinstallation attempts and then it all ran correctly.

If you lose connection to the flashlight during the update and get an infinite loop of error messages, don’t panic. Just close and reopen the command windows and try again (maybe I only needed to reconnect the POGO pins and it would have automatically resumed flashing - I didn’t try it). That happened to me and the firmware flashed correctly on the second attempt.

Also, I want to mention for anyone using these instructions that the links to ToyKeeper’s Andúril hex files in these instructions will become outdated as TK releases new versions. I used the base, directory URL of the files (Index of /torches/fsm) and found a later version to download. The file name to look for is in the format “anduril.[YYYY-MM-DD].emisar-d4v2.hex”, and if you want the Nichia 219 version, look for “–219” after the flashlight model.

For anyone interested, here is my review of the Emisar D4V2: Emisar D4V2 Review Supplement (the pickier details) (Emisar D4V2 Review Supplement (the pickier details))