[M4D deal] Nightwatch NI40 with Luminus SBT90 Gen2 interest list OPEN

Got the SBT-90.2 Stalker tonight. Did some quick tests, stock setup.

On a new Shockli 26650 at 4.19V: 17.3A, 217 kcd (taken at 5 m), Tom E lumens: 4760-4440, or calibrated: 4200-3920 (at start - 30 secs)

Other measurements:

  • LK 5000 @4.07V: 16A, 205 kcd
  • 40T @4.17V: 19.3A (40T taken w/o tail)
  • iJoy 26650 4200: 16.9A
  • Aspire 26650 4300: 17.0A

No problems really for switching to turbo - did it several times. Coming out of turbo there's a flicker though. I much prefer my own custom 4 mode 13A firmware, where changing modes always starts at lowest, but it has mode memory. So for example if you are on medium, quick click goes to moon, next quick click goes to low, etc. This allows you to avoid the blast of hi/turbo, and no reason to have a special quirky double click for turbo (ugh).

Guess I'm just spoiled...

Update:

The GOLISI finished charging, results:

GOLISI @4.21V: 20.2A, 237 kcd (taken at 5 m), Tom E lumens: 5240-4730, or calibrated: 4620-4180 (at start - 30 secs)

Hhmm. This seems to happen quite often - the throw #'s are close to the rating while the measured lumens are low. I'm sure the spring bypasses will help, as KB did.

Have you also measured the FT03? I’m getting only 80% more than it with the shockli. The FT03 is meant to be under 2000 so that would make it less than 3600. All of the cells you tested perform about the same as each other which is strange. Could it be the wires or spring that’s limiting the performance?

Yes - I got a FT03 SST-40 NW (it's important to note what model) that I measured. Amp readings on full cells was between 8 and 9.5A at the max.

On the 30T @4.21V: 9.5A, 253 kcd (taken at 5m), 2450-2160, calibrated: 2270-2004

Checking my notes, I see little difference from a LK 5000 cell, similar to a Shockli. Maybe 100-200 lumens less, ~240 kcd.

Anyone notice those 6 tube slots under the fins? Large trits? Maybe some passive or active cooling attachment designed to fit them? It's interesting for sure...

3x22.5's from Mixglo might fit.

Yh I noticed that too. Don’t exactly know what they’re for.

I remember that they called them innovative cooling design or something like that.

Not sure if this was mentioned, but anyone else notice the solder jumper on the backside of the driver, next to the spring? It seems connected to an MCU pin, probably re-configures something in the UI.

My NI40 came in while I was away for Thanksgiving. Just got home and popped in my charged up golisi’s.

DUUUUDE!

Love it! I compared it side by side with my catapult v6 and first off the tint is more toward the neutral side. On low, the NI 40 is ever so slightly green- but not objectionable so- each successive mode higher gets more neutral, less green, and more rosy. Medium mode is nicer than the cataput. The cat looks purple, the NI40 looks white.
High is really nice, and turbo is positively gorgeous.

The hot spot is about a third bigger than the cat, and the corona is much larger. It is a very useful beam. One of the reasons I didnt use the cat more is because if the pencil beam- just not broad enough.

I thought heat was going to be a major issue, and it may be in the summer, but it’s certainly not in the 20 degree weather we have right now. In 15 min of playing around with it it never got hot. Just a little warm

That’s actually a little disconcerting, making me wonder if heat is getting away from the led properly.

In turbo, it throws quite a bit more than the cat v6. I’ll measure relative throw later compared to the cat tomorrow.

Turbo is easy to get to, as long as you understand how the u/I works. You can get there by double tapping from on, in any mode. But it is not in the regular mode cycle. It does memorize turbo if left on for more than a few seconds. Double tapping does require some finesse, a light touch. Push too hard and it clicks off. It will still come on turbo if you turn it back on quickly- the driver does not care whether you double tap or turn off by clicking fully quickly twice.

Have to say again that I really like this tint. It is on the white side of neutral, but still being rosy if that’s possible. Reminds me of my old k40m with the mtg2.

Mine gets pretty hot after 5 minutes on high which is about 55% of turbo. The tint looks greenish to me on all settings apart from turbo. On the lowest setting it’s very noticeable. Once my eyes have adjusted to the colour it doesn’t look too bad though.

Looks like I may have won the tint lottery on this one. Ive always thought my cat v6 had a very pure white tint, until I compared to the NI40.

I’ll compare it to some of my other neutral white lights tomorrow. Maybe I’ll post some side by side beam shotsif I can figure out how to get my pics to show up.

Just got my NI40 SBT90.2 version

With a fully charged Vapcell 5500mah 26650 (same as Shockli), I measured the following (lumens taken at 2sec)

Lowest Mode:
Output: 50 LM
CCT: 5071K
DUV: 0.0175
Ra (CRI): 67.8

2nd Lowest Mode:
Output: 547 LM
CCT: 5332K
DUV: 0.0127
Ra (CRI): 67.6

3rd Lowest Mode:
Output: 1027 LM
CCT: 5530K
DUV: 0.0095
Ra (CRI): 67.8

Highest Mode:
Output: 1828 LM
CCT: 5747K
DUV: 0.0065
Ra (CRI): 67.8

Turbo (double half click):
Output: 3707 LM
CCT: 6127K
DUV: 0.0016
Ra (CRI): 68.5
R9: –25.9
R12: 40.7
Rf: 64
Rg: 96

With a Golisi 26650, I measured 4,241 lumens at 2sec.

Despite the high duv, it doesn’t look all that green except the lowest mode. The brightest two modes look pretty pure white. The hotspot is very big and round.

Mine is out for delivery. I do not have the equipment like some of you. You guys do a good job with that.

What I can do is I can provide you with some pretty good beam shots with Zero Light Pollution.That will have to wait a few days. Snow for next 24/36 hours.

I already know it will eat the battery on turbo. My MT35 XHP50.2 is about 4000Lumens. After 10 minutes of combined turbo the voltage was 3.58V. That measurement was taken about 7 seconds after load removed. Guess it was more like 3.3/3.4V immediately after turn off. That was with a Golisi 26650 4300mAh 35A battery.

EDIT: So there is no confusion I forgot to add that mine is the SBT90.2 Version.

Just got it. Switch works fine. When light is ON-Double half-press from ANY mode gets turbo.Mode memory was sporadic. Solidly built light, a little top heavy which is fine for me.I am guessing, more mass/more heat sinking? That is good.

This is a visual observation-It “Appears” to step down around 2 minutes with an indoor temperature of 64F/18C. Tail stand with no fan.When 3 minutes hits loss of output it is very visible with the eye.Aborted first test trying to make 5 minute increments.

Starting voltage for Aspire 26650 4300mAh was 4.19V.

After 10 minutes combined turbo [2 ON/2 OFF]the Voltage with An Aspire 26650 4300mAh is 3.62v. Measurement was 8 seconds after load was removed.Probably 0.10v to 0.30v lower at exact moment load was removed?

Basically eats it on Turbo at the same rate as my MT35 XHP50.2.[3.58v after 10 minutes of combined turbo]. Different LED and the NI40 has about 500 to 1000 more lumens

Comparison with FT03

Double half press turns on turbo from OFF also on yours?
Thanks

NO. The light must be ON to activate any mode. This kind of switch does Nothing until it is ON.There is No “momentary”.

Thank you

You are welcome. :beer:

I like the light. Great LED. I still may do a “Catch and release” unless I can find someone to make changes. My Cousin Otto lives in Germany, that is to far!

Two wishes.

  1. It had Narsil so I could disable the step down, 50C[I knew this] is way to low of a temp. setting .

2. The battery world would catch up to all these awesome LED’S we have. 8 to 10 minutes of Max output is not enough time!

These pictures are not that good. Did not hold phone steady enough and misty conditions. Tomorrow night Will be better clear and 15F. I will compare to MT35 XHP50.2 4000 lumens ~ 180Kcd

Tree is 100 yards away.

Just to not the driver is easily replaceable, but it's a power switch, so something like Bistro or Biscotti would have to be used. This driver from MtnE would be about perfect with lots of firmware options, but he's got it listed out of stock. I can confirm it takes a 22 mm driver - measured 21.9 mm.

Probably can get a 22 mm Lexel driver here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/49904

Thanks. But I do not know how to mod lights like many of you.

Does that set up eliminate or at least raise the step down to 70/75C?