i should have worded that better :partying_face: (meant to say moving to another province
I never got my prize and the offered to cover the cost but its not his fault, So i said no.
I don’t enter for a prize i entered to see what i could create. My wood working skills where zero (I once made a box at school 18+ years ago lol) and i am happy with what i made cause i didn’t think i could make something that complex.
Plus the fact my finger was stuffed didn’t help.
I think there are several reasons for the poor turn out. I’d rather discuss in pm’s though. Its a shame I cant just walk round the corner and discuss this over a coffee.
Kudos to CRX and team for making and putting in the effort to get the show on the road.
Like Clemence, life is too busy to spend days and nights in my little cave behind the cupboard. I have a family that requires extra attention and maintenance, but if ever that becomes easier I will join the contest, if it still exists. In the meantime a big thanks to CRX and the others who try to keep this alive!
That said, I just came up with a contest-idea that is not extremely time-consuming, I may enter anyway one of these days
I voted “I plan to enter but haven’t got around to it”!
After seeing the thread again last night, I realized I could be doing a mod
I have the host, I need the parts and I’m taking care of it!
In case they arrive before the deadline of the contest, I’ll enter!
If not…well, I’ll just check what the contesters are doing
For me it’s just lack of time, especially in the run up to Christmas with too many other competing things, need to build the nativity set, make up the parts for the christmas craft fair, etc.
Perhaps if it was scheduled in the new year next time? I was annoying at myself for not finishing my entry last year, but didn’t have the time in the end.
I voted “I don’t feel I’m skilled enough, don’t do modding or can’t afford it”
I don’t think I am skilled enough to win, however I am good enough to make the winner earn it
Money is a problem as is the health of both my wife and myself, but I am not alone there.
Life has really got in the way over the last few years, I hope that there is one next year as things seem to be picking up, both health and financial
Cheers David
I voted for too busy, but it’s not quite accurate. I bought my house in September, and all of my tools are packed up. I have to install laminate flooring in two more rooms before I can set up any working space.
Probably the next obstacle for me is MTN.E being perpetually out of stock
It is like entering a painting competition with Hopper, Van Gogh, Rembrandt and Michelangelo. To name a few.
On a very, very, good day I might produce an Appel, but I guess it will be more like Kindergarten hand painting.
…but i’m definitely supportive of the members who have genuine entries and do read through the build threads, generally finding them fascinating and inspiring.
There’s no way to show that though.
Posting in the threads show that
Even a simple :+1: or a or whatever shows interest
Yes, you’re right of course That shows an interest in the thread but it doesn’t show my enthusiasm for the competition itself, which is what i meant even though i didn’t imply it correctly. However, i’ve just realised the way to do that is to simply enter, even with something as basic as an LED swap, to increase the number of entrants. And so, i shall.
Thanks for guiding me there
I chose that I don’t have time… likely, I should have picked that I don’t have the skills. I started a couple years ago and gave it up. I did not have a good torch and required one for my design. I love the hand made category and could never complete.
This runs until the end of February. Would the end of March make it better? Or worse?
I’m planning to enter with a mod, just have to decide which one.
There would be a SP70 mod (3 or 4 XHP70.2) or a build with eight quad Carclo optics that I’m about to start in the new year.
I like the contest but the problem is that machine made is only for people with a lathe and the hand made category allows no parts like battery tubes.
I’m not skilled enough to build a flashlight without a threaded battery tube.
I like the contest but the problem is that machine made is only for people with a lathe and the hand made category allows no parts like battery tubes.
I’m not skilled enough to build a flashlight without a threaded battery tube.
Agreed, I do not have a way to make threads that are good. I started a light that was going to be a large gauge copper wire battery tube and all parts were going to be silver soldered together including the wire wrap tube. But, I did not and do not have a good enough oxy torch to solder it all up… I may try again, as I have the torch and hoses, but do not have the gas cylinders and they are just to expensive to lease in the US for a hobby.
… I’m not skilled enough to build a flashlight without a threaded battery tube.
I would think a pre-threaded pipe would be allowed.
Skylight:… I’m not skilled enough to build a flashlight without a threaded battery tube.
I would think a pre-threaded pipe would be allowed.
Yes absolutely. Didn’t DBSAR make a light using assorted pipe nipples and fittings a few years ago… contest 2 or 3 I think?
i’m not a modder or builder, just a user
Joshk: Skylight:… I’m not skilled enough to build a flashlight without a threaded battery tube.
I would think a pre-threaded pipe would be allowed.
Yes absolutely. Didn’t DBSAR make a light using assorted pipe nipples and fittings a few years ago… contest 2 or 3 I think?
There are a few ways to make hand made lights without any machines or threaded parts, some examples of techniques I have used in the past for ideas:
Press/ Friction fit:
CRX SR4-Cu-CF - Quad Nichia 219C 5000K - ED4v2 - 18650 - Electronic Tail Sw - 3400lm.[image]Copper, brass, carbon fibre & titanium construction Quad Nichia 219C 5000K emitters 20mm Copper DTP MCPCB 20mm x 7mm solid copper heatsink 22mm x 2mm dual coated ARC glass Green GITD glow bezel Emisar D4v2 ramping driver Copper, tritium & glass electronic tail switch Lockout-able Magnetic cell contacts 56, 2mm x 2mm tail magnets 18650 cell compatible Length – 97mm Width – 27mm Weight – 24…
[image] Another wee brass build, this is built around a filed down Thrunite Ti brass pill and Efest 10440 with the usual hand tools - a hacksaw, files & sandpaper This light has an XP-L HI v2 1A emitter on a 10mm sinkpad viewed through a TIR optic with cyan GITD detail. Forward tail clicky and being the ti driver can be powered from the main four cell chemistries we use. Li-Ion Efest 10440 - Max – 420lm Eneloop NiMH AAA - Max – 70lm Energizer Lithium - Max – 90lm Length - 8…
Another wee build for your viewing pleasure today, following on from the EXI triple mule build. I made a 16340 zoomie to go with it. Nichia 319A SM505 emitter 20mm KD DTP MCPCB 17mm 3A 7135 driver Glass aspheric Soldered MCPCB, pill & driver Reverse clicky tail switch Cyan glow details Length – 84 mm Width – 22 mm Some internal pics showing friction ring, brass stopper rings etc[image] Closed position[image] Opened, focused position & tail[image] This light is a side loader, t…
[image] Hand made carbon fibre & brass tube flashlight with electronic illuminated tail switch. Cree XP-L HD v6 2C on 16mm KD DTP MCPCB 17mm MTN FET driver with moppydrv E-switch firmware 18mm SMO reflector 17mm ARC glass GITD LED surround Circular ring illuminated momentary tail switch 18350 cell compatible Micro USB charger unit Magnetic front & tail Brass & Carbon fibre construction Max - 1260lm OTF Length - 94mm Width - 20mm Weight - 90 grams with 18350 cell Build pictures: …
[image] Another wee torch for you today I built this copper & aluminium triple mule flashlight out of some 3/4” plumbers pipe, 1” aluminium tube and some other bits ’n pieces I had with the usual hacksaw and hand files. It has an S6 brass pill filed down and soldered into the copper tube along with a filed down brass retaining ring holding the reverse clicky switch. I’ve used a slightly different design with this light, incorporating a sliding inner core held in place by friction and …
Well I suppose I should make a start on this years, The 2018 Annual BLF/ Old Lumens Scratch Made Light Contest entry. I am feeling the pain already from all the filing & sanding to be done, though I like it really... [image] This is a competition where BLF members take part by making a flashlight or light emitting device from scratch using materials and a design of their own choice. The yearly contest was started in 2013 by popular member though now deceased (2016) Old Lumens who loved using…
[image] I built this aluminium & copper zoomie light out of some plumbers pipe, aluminium tube, magnets and other bits ’n pieces from the spare parts box. This light is 18650 powered but can also accomodate 20700 cells. [image] XM-L2 U2? 1A on KD 20mm DTP MCPCB BLF A6 Driver Reverse clicky tail switch Length – 118 mm Width – 25 mm Weight – 170 grams (with cell) Max – 1000 lm/ 580 lm [image]
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Bayonet Twist & Catch:
[image] I received some parts from a giveaway by leroycp a few days ago and as I stated in that thread, I have made a light and dedicated it to Old Lumens. I have used brass tubing, copper bar, hand tools and used a couple of his methods to make it, most notably the tail switch locking piece. He did seem to like my work with brass so I would hope this light might be to his liking too. Cree XHP70 N2 1A Emitter ARC glass Forward clicky tail switch Tritium vial in metal switch Brass & copper…
Something a little different for you today, a bolt action operated triple output flashlight incorporating white, red and 365nm UV emitters. CRX Bolt Action Luxeon V2, XP-E2 Red, Seoul Viosys 365nm UV - KD I3N - 18350 - Bolt Acion Sw - 420lm.[image]Hand made. Brass construction. Lumileds Luxeon V2-5070 Cree XP-E2 R2 N4 620nm Red Seoul Viosys 365nm UV Z5 20mm triple Noctigon MCPCB 8mm thick aluminium heatsink 22mm x 1.5mm ARC glass Dual TIR/ Reflector optics Diffuser film KD I3N 3 chann…
[image]Titanium, copper & brass construction. Triple Nichia 219C SM4070e R9050 emitters 20mm Noctigon MCPCB 17mm MTN FET driver Carclo 10507 TIR ARC glass Soldered MCPCB & pill Magnetic contacts Forward clicky brass & glass covered tail switch Green tritium vial Cyan glow details Magnetic tail Length - 72 mm Width - 25 mm Weight - 150g (With 18350 cell) Max around – 2080lm OTF[image] CRX CuTi Triple runtime graph. [image] [image] [image] [image] . Previous versions.[image] …
Been a little while since I made a hand made light so.. [image]Hand made Copper & brass construction Cree XP-L HI v2 1A emitter 16mm Noctigon copper DTP MCPCB 18mm brass pill 16mm x 3mm soldered copper heatsink shelf 18mm x 12mm OP reflector 18mm x 2mm ARC glass Convoy 8x7135 3A driver Bypassed springs Reverse clicky tail switch 16mm rubber boot Cyan glow ring Felt lined battery tube Bayonet push, twist & lock system Length - 102mm Width - 20mm Weight - 119g (With 14500 cell) …
CRX CuTi Zoomie - KW CSLNM1.TG - FET 17 - 18350 - Fw Clicky Sw - 609lm, 209lm, 59000cd.[image]Copper, brass, titanium & carbon fibre construction Osram KW CSLNM1.TG 6N15 emitter Copper DTP MCPCB Dual core copper & aluminium heatsink 22mm aspheric lens Carbon fibre bezel insert MTN 17mm FET driver (G1F) Double o-ring push/ pull zoom function Copper & glass tritium forward clicky tail switch Magnetic tail Magnetic cell contacts Bayonet locking tail cap Length – 81mm/ 92mm Width – 27mm …
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Using Plumbing or Electrical threaded parts:
CRX BIG BRASS NUTZ Triple Luxeon v2 5000K - MTN FET Driver - 18650 - Fw Clicky Sw - 3200lm.[image]Hand made Copper & brass construction, triple layered Triple Luxeon v2 5000K emitters Noctigon copper DTP MCPCB 22mm x 2mm ARC glass Carclo 10511 TIR optic Green GITD glow gasket Copper pill MTN FET Driver (GuppyDrv1) Copper lined & sprung battery tube Copper switch enclosure 15A Forward clicky tail switch (djozz test) Rubber switch boot with copper button cover Glass covered 10mm x 2.5…
CRX GoRingu Luxeon v2 5000K - Nanjg 105c-3A - 18350 - Rv Clicky Tail Sw - 826lm. [image] Hand made Copper & Brass Construction Luxeon v2 5000K emitter Copper DTP MCPCB 20mm ARC glass 20mm Smooth reflector GITD LED & switch surround Nanjg 105c-3A 3 mode driver Carbon fibre bezel insert Magnetic tail Threaded tailcap Reverse clicky tail switch Rubber switch boot with copper button cover Max - 826lm cd - 6800 - 165m throw Modes - 5% - 30% - 100% Length - 80mm Width - 25mm Weight…
[image]Cree XP-G2 S2 1A DQG Driver Magnetic tail Twisty tail switch High – 252 lm Med – 50 lm Low – 2 lm Length – 36mm Width – 24mm Weight – 88 grams (With 14250 cell)[image]Powered by a 14250 cell with XP-G2 1A emitter on an integrated PCB. Three modes, always starts on low, this is a tail twisty mule light. The tail has a magnetic momentary switch, it works as a normal twisty light but has the optional setting of automatically activating when stuck to a ferrous surface, switches off…
Another small light I made today from this time electricians 20mm brass conduit fittings and some other bits & pieces to accompany the Plumbers version. CRX Brass BumbleBee [image] This light is made from electricians parts as opposed to plumbers, powered by a 16340 cell with Nichia 219c D320 5000k emitter on a noctigon MCPCB and has a single mode restricted to 1A via resistor. Length – 43mm Width – 21mm Weight – 57 grams (with cell) Max – 310 lm [image] [image]
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Sealed units:
Hello and welcome to my build thread for the 2017 5th Annual BLF / Old Lumens Scratch Made Light Contest which is a competition where BLF members take part by making a flashlight or set thereof from scratch and was started by now deceased member Old Lumens who loved modding and making flashlights. There are two categories, Machine made and Hand made. Again I will be entering the hand made category and making the light(s) using only small hand held tools. This years flashlight will be made fro…
I made this light out of a Nitecore Tube and some aluminium box section. [image] . XP-G2 S4 2B emitter GITD inset USB Rechargeable Magnetic Electronic switch Max – 60lm [image]
[image] I decided to make a lighted switch on my SGN3. Opening the light up did not go exactly to plan :FACEPALM: I may have become slightly annoyed with it during the process O:) So how am I going to fix this...[image]Well, I have had an old piece of one inch aluminium box tube shower rail sitting around for years in the cupboard and had an idea so I got to work making a new case with that There are five 10mm neo magnets epoxied inside the shell on the front & back and one in the tail. …
[image] This one is powered by two 120mAh parallel lipo cells, has a side reverse clicky switch with a 1206 white SMD LED locator light in line with a 4000K resistor and a micro 200mAh USB charger unit with white LED charging indicator in the tail. [image] XP-G2 S4 2B emitter on 10mm sinkpad soldered to a brass pill and a 10mm TIR optic with cyan GITD . It is a single mode direct drive light with an R200 resistor giving around max 360lm and 72m throw. The outer copper casing is 12mm plumber…
Well, hell.
I happen to be in direct contact with Mr. Old Lumens himself and his opinion is excuses are like a55holes, everybody has one. Just do what your time allows and show it off. Wrong time of the year? Too busy? It is what it is so just do it!
Forget prizes, forget pride or perfection… the real reward is in accomplishment. Getting involved and creating with your own two hands. Doesn’t have to be epic, doesn’t have to rewrite the origins book, just get involved.
Make Justin proud and rebuild a Maglite…