Ultimate LED Bulbs - Ultra High CRI - The Honorable Quest

Wonderful, as I understand, yttirium derived mantles looked rather green. Thorium derived mantle lights improved the color removing some of the green. These lights are , nonetheless, adored by those that live near them—Berlin residents. Berlin still uses 30,000 gas mantle lights in its streets. Here are some sample pictures. The 9-11 mantle lights throw around quite a bit of light, rivaling some electrical lighting systems. The 4 mantle lights look good for residential, you don’t want to light up peoples’ homes like a baseball park.

As I also understand, the Coleman dual mantle lanterns also produce some 850 lumens of warm white light, even outperforming the BLF LT1!

It does look rather yellow indeed, nothing of the rosiness that people here prefer. If this type of lighting ever takes off you can recognise BLF folks by a minus-green chimney :smiley:

This might be of interest to some. Not the first time the 500W Yuji is tested though.

If someone want LED with high cri without violet. For example, I am going to do lamp for nail extsntion
I will get more deteiled result tomorrow. I think it is almost CRI97. It is the same manufacturer what produce SOLs — SmartEcoLightning

Ahah! Well done, kinda got me there. Well, well, well what mention should I add to disqualify those solutions?

  • I do not want to become radioactive?
  • I want lights to be able to run from sustainable energy sources?
  • "No Amish tech"?

Something that's bothering me since the start. I thought that SOL and SAW were both produced by SSC, but manufactured in different countries. But now I'm understanding that:

  • SAW are made by Seoul SemiConductor / Toshiba (Korea/Japan) : violet crystal tech
  • SOL are made by SmartEco Lighting (China) : blue & violet crystal tech

Is it right?

Yes. SOL is from China. It is not TRI-R technologies

And is there any relation between SSC and Smart Eco Lighting companies ?

I do not know

Just found an interesting high-level article, speaking about SOL and SAW differences, and doing that using some of Adam's product offering.

PS : by the way Adam, are you Ukrainian or Belarusian ?

Bought a Lidl Livarno Lux LED E27 smart bulb. Strong do not buy from me.

-Warm white with a bad yellow tint (2700K, duv +0.0048)
-CRI Ra 83, R9 15, R12 71
-TM-30-18 Rf 88, Rg 94
-RGB modes emit an audible whine
-RGB modes have a very low output, no chance to make a mood lighting unless you buy 10 of these
-PWM is not visible on any mode
-Remote and smartphone bluetooth app work fine, but the colors on the remote don’t all really reflect what the output will be
-About 10x range in the dimming with fine steps
-Power draw 1.2-8.3W on white with a power factor of 0.48-0.59
-Power draw 0.9W on RGB with a power factor of 0.40-0.45
-Standby power is 0.5 watts


This SOL/SAW thing is confusing. Tell me if this is right or not:

SAW = Original by “Seoul Semiconductor” (Sunlike product line) in Korea
SOL = Better/cheaper by “Smart Eco Lightning” in China

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000232096487.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.3da73c004HJJE9&mp=1 has come in. Box was beat up, marked marswell and diy led u home.
The color seems very accurate, just looking by eye especially at my skin, unfortunately no proper testing gear. Since it’s bright, it doesn’t look painfully blue - as is usually the case with other low intensity low cri high cct bulbs. A couple halogen bulbs evens out the CCT nicely (can’t use LEDs in 3 of the main fixtures and landlord won’t do a thing about it).

The actual base is plastic with air holes at the bottom. The LED aluminum mounts are only partially enclosed just enough to protect the LEDs, so there is room for a lot of air flow. Despite my original hesitance, I think this can more or less handle the 40 watts, and might even run cooler than all the 1600 lumen mainstream bulbs that have died on me…

What really needs to be known and I don’t feel like testing: what’s inside for the driver? I doubt a made in china bulb will have long lasting 130C rated japanese caps sadly…
I will update with pics after it has been on for a few hours to test heat…from what I’ve seen so far the heat is coming from the upper part where LEDs are lined up rather than the driver.

I’m pretty impressed and tempted to buy a few more…it’s REALLY HUGE, though, it pokes out way above the diffuser on my lamp, and would require removal of typical household glass cones or covers.

EDIT: Photos and CRI results https://photos.app.goo.gl/e51uJQ1jXSRyC62N6

EDIT2 5/4/2020:
I had to repload the CRI result… the image was missing, implying they may have DMCA’d it, but never got a notice from google… I would not buy from that aliexpress store with the way they bully, the only way that image went missing is they reported it.
They sent me “tests” with numbers very different from my old and outdated calibration tool (which only has a problem with too much green) on aliexpress…. (and of course, it was only “tested for 2 months”)

DIY led uhome if you are reading this it never pays to be a bully!

regarding the heat comment… it creaks when turned on, this implies that it is heating rapidly. so clearly there may be an issue, I have no way to measure the temperature.

You can say it!

The above figures in the picture seem to be 10x what they should, doesn't it?

25.4x
It’s in mm.

Photos added to original post.

Think that a second time Joshk, that bulb cannot measure 28.74mm wide, just the e27 base measures ∅27mm.

It is 2.874" wide and 9.252" long:

O:)

thanks to Alexey Nadezhin for review (lamptest.ru) even without my logo =)

Today I am in Belarus (BelMORDOR), last 6 month was in Ukraine (UkrMORDOR). Now I have ukrain passports and can go to Europe to apply for political asylum. But I think that I am USSR citizen, even after death of CCCP

SOL is cheaper, but now… Now they try to charge additional 10% fee from me (like for samples). And now there is cheap 3030 TRI-R SunLike leds. So, I can not say that it is cheaper, but in my web-site it is still more cheaper (8$ and 5$ per 1pcs 6w).

Better in what? I think, that spectrum of SOL and SAW is almost the same, you will not feell the diferense. But what about time of life with the same good spectrum? IF we have only violet crystals, even if some % of luminofor will die, it will be violet peak, SORAA have violet peak, Yuji leds have violet peak, and it is ok. If some % of luminofor will die in SOL? What type of luminofor will die first? And thrue what spectrum? 450nm (blue) will kill luminofor faster than violet? It will with 450nm peak after death of some % of luminofor? It is the questions, why I can not say that SOL (ChinaSunLike) is better that SAW (TRI-R)

SunLike, did you think about Vf binning the emitters you use and sorting them in packs for more balanced parallel current sharing? Any modern cheap multimeter can provide an accurate Vf figure. But since your leds are well thermally coupled, this may not matter much.

Are SunLike (SAW/SOL) emitters available through any of the cheap sites (eBay/AliExpress)? Didn't care to look for them yet.