[BLF Joint-Development] WildTrail BLF Tactical Flashlight

I think most of the people here have their own ideas or definitions of what “tactical” means when used to describe a flashlight, because apparently there is no widely accepted definition of a “tactical” flashlight.

Maybe the solution is for someone to create a clearly defined list of features this light should have — and a corresponding list of features it should not have — and do not give it a descriptive name until the end, after all features are finalized and no longer debatable.

Mild rounded crenelated bezel is plenty. Must be steel and large enough to protect the head from drops.

For that purpose the nitecore MT1A’s bezel works great for that, protection of the head but not destruction of the pocket. If you were to need an example.

No, and of I ever planned to carry a light for that purpose I wouldn’t go for the “budget” option, YMMV.

Now your talking about the real issue. It’s the problem with this thread.

What is the (REAL) reason for building this light?

To quote Lux-Perpetua “The target is nothing less than to get the best +tactical EDC flashlight +with dual switch design and Andúril UI.”

Maybe that’s the best definition of a “tactical light”, a light that someone would bring to (or have with them in) a fight.

That is absolutely implied. The term has been watered down over the years by pseudo-military marketing tomfoolery used by every ebay seller over thousands of mediocre products. This is why I am guessing there are a few of us watching this thread from the sidelines with a healthy amount of skepticism that a tactical light will be the final result.

And a budget Chinese tactical light is not impossible. People were carrying and weapon-mounting Fenix lights in Iraq and Afghanistan because SL/Surefire were ten years behind on LED tech at the time. The old Fenix lights were super simple, proven durable under extreme abuse, and nailed the fundamentals with modern battery and LED tech (although everyone in this case kept using cr123 because they were free).

But this is all working against the crowdfunding (or interest survey based) model you have here. Nobody who wants an actual tactical light is going to buy revision 1.0. We want abuse tests and months of documented reliability post-release. As someone who only buys lights when they get lost and only owns a handful of lights, I am intrigued with the quality of light this forum can produce — a fw3 replaced a 6 year old thrunite of mine that got lost. I’m also not convinced that this format of light is well served by the whims of a flashlight enthusiast internet forum. I apologize for being a negative nancy here.

Interesting in 2

Interested in at least 1.

What about the Luxeon V? They are available in 4000K, 5000K, 5700K and 6500K. The beam quality in an OP reflector should be great as well. I haven’t tried it in a SMO reflector yet.

My current tactical light is a Convoy M21A with OP reflector, LD-B4 driver 7 Amps, Luxeon V 5700K. No mode memory, mode sequence 100% - 16% - moon. So when I turn it on, I know it’s gonna full blast. A triple half tap and hold gives me strobe.

I would like a side switch on this project light with similar functionality to Acebeam and Olight. Otherwise I might as well stick to my reliable and powerful custom Convoy M21A.

I’m in for 2,please…

Definitely want crenelated bezel, tail clicky + electronic side switch, and I prefer Anduril…

And yes, I have used a flashlight in self-defense.

Thanks!

-dmm

Interested

You guys know this has been out for a while now, right?

It think you (should) know the objections against FET DD by now.

You will have to throttle the max output at max battery charge with unfortunate solutions like low drain batteries, high Vf LEDs, not optimal electrical path, PWM-ing too high currents, or simply overdriving the LED beyond preferable levels on a full battery.

This is all unnecessary with FET DD drivers, which aren’t even expensive anymore.

Even a 7135 driver works better than FET DD, in particular for modest output lights such as this project.

Don’t you prefer to have steady output levels? I know i do.

A nice buck driver on a low Vf LED may be even better, plus it makes it possible to use 2x CR123A.

These are more expensive though, but Convoy has the LD29, which could do with better mode spacing and more modes though.

But why is nobody considering a (reverse) clicky Omten 1288 in the side?

Mounted on the charging PCB or sandwiched between the driver and charging PCB.

Then you won’t have to switch the tail switch on to charge it anymore (resulting in a turned on light when the charger is off, which kind of sucks).

Maybe something to consider.

I put a 4000K one in my Zanflare F1 and it really brought the F1 to life. :+1:

The low Vf of the Luxeon V makes the double click turbo of the F1 work throughout most of the battery charge, unlike with the XP-L it used to have.
The F1 has a SMO reflector, a fairly deep one, and it works great, and not a lot of tint shift.

Yes, the F1 is a bit large for a single 18650 light, but it’s a comfortable size to hold in your hand.

The only pity of the F1 is that the size could have fit a 21700.

You can’t drill out the battery tube though, because where the O-rings are the outer diameter is only 21mm.

But a 21700 would have justified the size of the F1.

BUT, as i mentioned earlier, they could have put an Omten 1288 in the side instead of the e-switch.

Plenty of room there.

But i don’t know of any decent light that comes with a reverse clicky side switch.

But i know it works just fine, because my last year’s failed scratch build had one and i modded 2 side e-switch lights into side reverse clicky lights.

Ah… :person_facepalming: :person_facepalming: :person_facepalming:

But it’s dramatically different than what’s discussed here…
I know that light is out for a while, but i didn’t expect this to be that.

This driver has a FET, but you can always program a mode group which has on highest mode only full AMC regulated level!
Then Turbo is only available through long press from lowest mode

It combines both regulated and DD into one driver, people need to differ between DD+1 and DD+n+1 driver designs

True.
But it also depends on how much n is.

…and i still think DD is not such a good idea, although it does solve some thermal issues (if the FET is fast enough).

Thot it was another light, my bad. :person_facepalming:
I even have one for sale now.

You could always remove R4 to shut down the FET if you don’t want it

it is FET+5+1
so 2.1A, light can easily run without getting to the thermal throttle if its set to like 60°C