Emisar D1sV2 respectively Noctigon K1

Is the drive current for the white flats on the NOW FOR SALE Noctigon K1:
5A for the 1mm² CSLNM1.TG
8.5A for the 2mm² CSLPM1.TG

Or thereabouts?

4.9A for the W1, 7.8A for the W2.

Wow exciting! What flux bin and tint bin are the emitters?

Noctigon K1 Thrower LED its on Hanks site now

So then… It’s ready to go??

Yes its ready. Ships by Dec 15th it says. I was literally on his site last night to order a D4V2 for myself since my V1 has been acting up lately after a year and a half of EDC. The K1 wasn’t on there last night. I popped my head in here today after a absence and saw the posts on the K1. Immediately went back and ordered one as of about 5 minutes ago. I was doing so good too. The D4V2 was supposed to be my christmas present to myself, now Ive had to rationalize that Im replacing my V1 because I need to, and the K1 is my gift this year hahahaha.

Ordered in Dark grey, W1. My D4V2 is in sand with all the options including raised bezel since Ive torched a few pockets and a nice jacket hem because Im too cool for lockout. Damn you all for feeding my addictions! I had told myself I didn’t need a thrower and last night the D1S wasn’t on the site anymore or I would have ordered one also, and still ended up with a K1 today.

I’ve been watching this thread with interest……I’d appreciate some advice on whether the K1 would be suitable for me.

I don’t have a thrower flashlight at all and I like the idea of having one just to play with. But one specific time I’d use it is for confirming that no members of the public have entered the rear safety area before starting large electrically fired firework displays. A typical distance would be something like 200 metres depending on the products being used. I’m not expecting to illuminate the whole area……just swing the beam over the periphery for a final check.

Would the K1 be too throwy for my situation?
Which of the two LED’s currently offered would be best at that kind of distance?

Thanks !

The W2 would be better for your use but 200M is still too short. I recommend you get the Nightwatch NI40 with the SBT90.2. It has a very large hotspot yet throws very well. The large hotspot allows you to scan much easier.

I have a blf gt70, had a GT , and a gt mini VN.
The GT did a good job on the park by my house, 300 yards to the stores on the other side. The GT70 does an incredible job in terms of throw AND lumens downfield. PLUS great spill for people spotting…

The GT miniVN, a bit less of a thrower than the K2, does ok at 300 yard with zero spill. Not sure how the K2 will be but I personally would want a GT70 or something. the park is 14 acres, ranging from 150 yards to 300 yards across from where I stand. With the GT0 a sweep would be unescapable….

Will have to try it, but I suspect the K1 would be about right for that. I think I have a convenient spot to check which is about 250 m away.

Edit: Yup, it works pretty well. At that distance, the beam illuminates most of the side of a house.

When do we get to see outdoor beam shots? Ive already ordered one even without seeing real world performance though hahaha.

Probably when things melt enough to be able to move my car? It’s kinda stuck.

Snowed in? Im in Florida loving the weather :smiley:

maybe you can try to do this test again but measure the output of the lights with a luxmeter to substantiate.
The left beam looks dimmer, but usually CW tends to be more visible, which isn’’t the case now.

The beam intensities were the same as measured with a lux meter.

You say CW tends to scatter more, but this experiment and an understanding of the scattering mechanisms show otherwise. That’s sort of why I’m bringing it up again; maybe the common belief that CW scatters more is just not true in most cases.

Call me stubborn, but i’m not convinced.
It looks like the total Lumen output of the right hand side is higher. (It must be, because the illuminated area is larger)

A real side by side test involves equal testing.
2 identical s2+ lights on the same brightness level, with proper lux readings and with identical LEDs but different tints.

Problem is driving them to an equal Lumen output.

Fair enough, but what exactly is your stubborn belief based on?

You are right that the total output of the warm light must be higher since the beam intensities are the same. This could be the reason why the warm light actually appears to scatter more in this photo. Although the beam is the same intensity, it is wider which would mean more scattered light in the beam cross section. However, I think the photo dispels the myth that cool white scatters a lot more.

Its nice to know i’m not the only stubborn person over here :wink:

I like my tints neutral’ lets call it a personal thing.

I’m not trying to change anyone’s preference. I usually prefer neutral around 5000K especially when used outdoors. I just seek the truth; there’s no reason to use incorrect reasoning to justify one’s preference.