When I bought some deep carry clip from Neal, I thought it was supposed to come with some white O-rings too but it did not. Either I got lucky with Lumintoplighting or Neal just doesn’t put them in the box.
No O-ring with deep clip from neal also. I guess it only comes with the short tubes?
Check out the discussion here if you’re interested in stiffening up the switch actuation.
Thanks, ordered them from amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FMWLR8?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image
What kind of color is applied to the flashlight?
I’ve noticed the gray color coating is disappearing around the edges of the tailcap and bezel
I wouldn’t mind being able to get the extra hard anodizing, even though I think it only comes in black.
Heads up, these work like a charm, gives a good tactical feel.
Got my FW3A yesterday from the Amazon sale. I have a few new Sanyo NCR18650GA 3500mAh High Discharge BUTTON Top unprotected cells. After I inserted the cell from the head, the light briefly flashed to indicate contact. However, when I clicked on the e-switch, nothing happens, no light came up, holding down the e-switch doesn’t ramp up to down (no light came out at all).
I emailed Lumintop through Amazon, but haven’t heard back. In the meantime, I just remembered that I have some harvested flattop Samsung 24E unprotected from a laptop battery, so I popped one in, and the FW3A worked like a charm.
I plan to order some higher capacity flat top unprotected LG MJ1 to see if they work. So far, I think unprotected flat top is probably my best bet.
Order yourself a couple Sanyo 30Q’s
Some button top work and some don’t. The heights vary. You could remove the button top if your careful.
Sanyo? That would be Samsung.
I have noticed that the driver shelf has not been cut out completely on a copper version. This puts the driver out of alignment.
That’s normal. The notch on the driver fits there.
Doh that makes sense
That’s because the FWXX series lights are designed to work on unprotected cells.
I had to buy a large tweezers and tighten all the retaining rings on my FW3X V2s.
A few days ago, the switch started acting up on my FW3A bare. Today, I took apart the switch to find pieces of what appeared to be the flat black rubber spacer; not the nub. The pieces were not from the spacer in the light. I used canned compressed air to clean the circuit board mounted switch. The switch is now back to behaving.
Wish I would have checked the switch before I originally tightened up the associated retaining ring.
OK, for the record I will go back and take all the troubleshooting steps recommended.
Here’s why. I’ve been using the FW3A every evening walking the dog in the dark.
Tonight was different.
As usual, started from a low setting and ramped up.
Got one blink then the light went out.
Clicked once and it started again in low, ramped up, and went out
Clicked once, started in low, ramped up, flickered several times and went out
Repeated and again got ramp to flicker to out
Clicked again, started in low, got a normal ramp up and turbo bright
Clicked off, back on low, again normal ramp up and turbo bright
Clicked off, clicked on, no ramp or response to clicks, light went out.
Clicked off, back on low, ramped up and went out
Clicked off, back on low, ramped up and got the voltage report (4 blinks then 1 blink)
I think I have an intermittent, and will go looking for anything suggested (retightening, cleaning).
G’night.
The only time this has happened to me was when the tail cap was loose. I modified the switch, removing the nubbin & inserting a 5/32” o-ring, to firm up the button. It works great. But for some reason, it’s a little more prone to loosening when I partially unscrew the head for lockout. The symptom is the light going out while ramping up. Tightening the tail cap fixes it every time.
Does anyone know if the retaining ring for the tail cap can be purchased separately and if it will work in a 1st release FW3A?
Hm, tailcap on mine did not budge noticeably when I tried clamping down on it, but the intermittent problem seems to have cleared up.
I would gladly buy the revised model tailcap with retaining ring, if they made enough of them to sell them as spares. It seems a weak spot to fix.
Well not always., out of more than a dozen first and second run lights (no not all for me) I had one light that the only way I could get it to work reliably was to remove the retaining ring from the tail cap.
OK, I had crud in the threads somewhere. Screwing the head and tailcap back and forth released some grinding/sticking points, then adding a bit of Nyogel conductive lube to the threads, seems to have eliminated the intermittency problem for now.
I’d still like to get one of the new version tailcaps with retaining ring, if they come available.