PL47 will be brighter, and probably a bit throwier with most LEDs, you can change this with some “DC Fix” diffuser film on the lens.
The PL47 is much heavier than a Skilhunt H03, at least if using 21700 battery. I would expect it to bounce more for running or skiing. Dunno if a different headband would solve this.
Yes, sub-lumen for sure.
Well yes? I’ve had order from them ff and got shipped via China Post, just remember pick your region. mine for asian region.
Thanks for your help BurningPlayd0h.
The DC fix idea is great, I hadn’t heard of that even though I googled for heat proof lens filters and gels and such like. I think I might even have some DC fix left over from a job on the window in our porch, if I can find where I put it!
I was thinking more about the bulk of the pl45g2 rather than the weight, but since you mentioned it, I spent a couple of days DIYing with an extra 18650 and an AA cell taped to my Skilhunt H03 to get a feel for the extra weight. It did bounce around a bit more, but nothing serious. If the PL45g2 cradle is as good as the Skilhunt H03 I think that the extra wieght will be a small price to pay for the extra lumens, especially when moving a speed, skiing of running.
The sub-lumen mode is not really a marketing headline, but is really important to me, so that I don’t wake the wife up when going on a midnight munchie run to the kitchen! So thanks for the info!
Has anyone any advice on which LED version is best before I purchase?
Are the Nichia leds really better for wide angle use(I read this somewhere). If the Nichia leds aren’t any better for flood use, then why choose them over the extra 2000 lumens from the XPL version. At only £3 difference I’m struggling to see what the advantage of the Nichia might be if not for flood use?
Thanks again for any help.
The Nichia version will be slightly floodier due to larger die size, but its real advantage is the tint: rosy, Hi-CRI 4500K unconditionally loved by the tint freaks out there. On the other end, the main disadvantage would be its lower efficiency, meaning not only less lumens turbo, but also shorter runtimes at the same level.
If you care about efficiency and runtimes, XP-L 5000K is the way to go IMO.
As a trail runner myself, I find the PL47g2 a bit too bulky for really shaky activities like running and mountain biking. The real problem is not the mass but rather the fact that all the mass is concentrated in the head, and how much the head protrudes: it sticks out for double the length as compared to a classic 18650 angle light like a Zebralight. This means every movement will translate in visible shaking of the beam.
I am using my PL47g2 for caving and I am very happy with it, when mounted on a helmet the weight and size difference with a 18650 angle light is indiscernible, but for running, I’m sticking with my Zebralight.
Great info ysgramor. Thanks for the background on the Nichia\XPL tradoffs. I’ve read about the tints but not about efficiency. I think that Lumens and efficiency will be more important for skiing, especially with a bit of speed. Tint probably isn’t so important when everything around is white!
Good point about the bulk\protrusion, with all this in mind, I think I’ll stick to he Skilhunt H03 for running but buy the PL47G2 for faster activities, like skiing, I’m not that fast at running! When downhill the PL47G2 will be on a helmet anyway, so that might help reduce excessive wobble.
Thanks again, hope the PL47G2 delivery arrives before the next round of snow!
Finally got the delivery yesterday.
1st impression : dude, is this tiny thing gonna even fit 21700 shocklii…let have a try. It fit!!! Aaaaahhhh! So small light.
2nd. Package well handed, no scratch no dent instead the box has softy foam pretty good. To be continued…
My first anduril 2nd after ft03 narsil so I’ve got quite familiar wih it. I like the candle, lightning mode.
Bright? I’m gonna yes, at highest ramping. even more brighter to turbo(double click). In term of heat dissipation, starting to getting hot with 1 min over, the brightness decrease gradually almost no see it step down. But turbo, it gets really hot and I’m not sure I want to take runtime measurement…
Hello.
I recently received my flashlight and have found some sad thing...
Does anyone know how to disassemble head of this flashlight?
I have found a small piece of metal shavings between glass and LEDs.
This small piece is moving when I shake the flashlight.
Look on photo, I marked this "thing" with arrow.
Full size photo
Worst of all, a metal piece scratches the glass inside... I'm sad :(
I can not find any "guides" how to "open" head of this flashlight.
So any ideas how I can disassemble and remove it?
I ordered one from Jacky a week ago. sst20 and clear anodization. Very excited. Recently really got into right angle lights. Been using a Sofirn sp40 which I really like. It has a really good magnetic end cap so I didn’t worry about getting that on the PL47. Camping/BBQ’ing will probably travel with both so I can always lend one of the two out. Wish there were alternate choices for the aux lights, but whatever.
I just find out that, when you in lockout mode(4x fast click),there are 3 available aux light mode by clicking 3x(during that lockout mode). 1st, aux light, lights on all time. 2nd, aux light begin on/of sequence. Lastly, aux light litterally turn off. Next cycle repeat.
Another thing here, I see myself very hard to tightened the tailcap every after I loseen it for lockout and prevent parasitic drain. I’ve just find out that, it is very easy instead to loseen/tightened the head and I used this way as it is more convenient way.
TIR
Disassembled head:
And I cleaned flashlight from this metal piece :)
How did you manage to open it? Twist it with a pipe wrench or something? Seems you can reflow the small aux leds to a different color this way… I guess its 0805 SMD color leds?
Does anyone know a good deep pocket clip that will fit this beast?
Is that a trimmer pot in the center for the aux leds?
There is no trim pot. It’s just the screw that holds the mcpcb.
Just think. Why make a potentiometer that you can’t use?
Assuming this is the Lexel board or something like it, those are probably 0603 color leds.
I wish they’d gone with a threaded bezel. I don’t like press-fit.
Bezel is pressed in, but not so hard as I thought.
So I started with a thin knife.
I pushed knife between bezel and head body from one side.
Then I made the same from another side.
Some space freed up and I pushed a small screwdriver between this parts.
Then changed small screwdriver to a little bit bigger.
Continue doing this until it opens up 
As you can see there are some scratches. They are from screwdriver.
This is not the best way thay you can open flashlight, but the only one in my case.
I think you can use vise or smth like that.
I need this light with amber secondary LEDs. That would be awesome. You choose high CRI LEDs, and add blue secondary LEDs?
If it weren’t such a pain to open the head with the pressed in bezel, I would attempt to reflow amber LEDs in place of the blue myself.
So the o-ring on my black PL47v2 decided to wiggle out of place. No idea how. So I also had to remove my bezel.
After a few tries on the vice, it came loose. No drama at all.
Put it back in it’s place, and pressed the bezel back on again. Perfecto
Also, my second PL47v2 has arrived. The clear ano XP-L Hi V3 3A 5000K version.
Itøs one of thoose rare light I have no intentions of modding. It’s perfect as it is. (I should have ordered a tailcap with magnet, but forgot. So I have glued one on this one…
Pictures don’t do it justice.
Try a plastic pry tool such as that used when replacing iPhone screens and what not.
I’ve been using mine for some time abd it’s definitely an improvement from gen 1. And nice to know that the bezel can be removed without breaking the glass lens unlike gen 1. Dang that clear ano looks damn good. Need to buy another one.
