ASTROLUX MF01 Mini - common issues thread

[man_of_light]

@JasonWW

It’s easy to miss a new thread, so post a link here when it’s ready. :+1:

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/59714

[Thro]

@Skylight

I have read that XPL HI leds do not fit inside the SST20 version because it would need to be longer then.

What about LH351D leds, would they be to big as well? Could they maybe fit if they are shaved?

I have a blank mcpcb on the way to test this.
I think i wil need to dedome the LH351Ds to make it work

[JasonWW]

@Thro

@Skylight

I have read that XPL HI leds do not fit inside the SST20 version because it would need to be longer then.

What about LH351D leds, would they be to big as well? Could they maybe fit if they are shaved?

I have a blank mcpcb on the way to test this.
I think i wil need to dedome the LH351Ds to make it work

It’s not just the dome size. It’s also the height of the led base. I think the xpl base is a tiny bit higher than the SST-20. So the length of the optic legs becomes a factor. Too short a leg will crush the led base. I think it was the ROT66 which had this problem so they had a specific mcpcb with shallower drilled holes for the optic leg for that specific led.

[Skylight]

@JasonWW

@Thro

@Skylight

I have read that XPL HI leds do not fit inside the SST20 version because it would need to be longer then.

What about LH351D leds, would they be to big as well? Could they maybe fit if they are shaved?

I have a blank mcpcb on the way to test this.
I think i wil need to dedome the LH351Ds to make it work

It’s not just the dome size. It’s also the height of the led base. I think the xpl base is a tiny bit higher than the SST-20. So the length of the optic legs becomes a factor. Too short a leg will crush the led base. I think it was the ROT66 which had this problem so they had a specific mcpcb with shallower drilled holes for the optic leg for that specific led.

My MCPCB will arrive next week so I will test it as well.

Thank you, JasonWW. So with LH351Ds the optic will not focus properly? Or will it really kill the led?

In another thread someone wrote that Mateminco stated the XPL HI would need a few mm more room in the head. Is the difference really that big?

[JasonWW]

@Skylight

@JasonWW

@Thro

@Skylight

I have read that XPL HI leds do not fit inside the SST20 version because it would need to be longer then.

What about LH351D leds, would they be to big as well? Could they maybe fit if they are shaved?

I have a blank mcpcb on the way to test this.
I think i wil need to dedome the LH351Ds to make it work

It’s not just the dome size. It’s also the height of the led base. I think the xpl base is a tiny bit higher than the SST-20. So the length of the optic legs becomes a factor. Too short a leg will crush the led base. I think it was the ROT66 which had this problem so they had a specific mcpcb with shallower drilled holes for the optic leg for that specific led.

My MCPCB will arrive next week so I will test it as well.

Thank you, JasonWW. So with LH351Ds the optic will not focus properly? Or will it really kill the led?

In another thread someone wrote that Mateminco stated the XPL HI would need a few mm more room in the head. Is the difference really that big?

I don’t know the height of the LH351D, I was just saying you need to check that. I might be an issue. On the Rot66 the LEDs got crushed.

The height difference was a fraction of a millimeter. Very tiny.

[Skylight]

Thanks, JasonWW. I will check this. I’ll have to be very careful with the leds!

[torchfanatic]

Hi guys

I received my MF01s recently and have a few questions if you are able to answer, apologies if they have already been answered!

1. Can you change the colour of the Aux lights like Emisar?
2. What battery gives the most output and perfomrnace? I’m using samsung 21700 40t at the moment
3. Im using the spacer provided but its making a rattling sound. Is that normal? I.e it’s not fitting as smooth as it should - contact between both spring and main light
4. Can this light be re flashed with new firmware like I did with my d4v2 which came with muggle mode issues! (same wire pogo pin)??

Thanks!!!

[oweban]

1) nope, they’re fixed
2) 30T would give higher turn-on output, but it’ll ramp down super fast. 40T is a good one for it.
3) spacer isn’t long enough, I used paper to “fill” it:

4) not via pogos. Gotta remove driver to upgrade it. It’s…… not fun.

[torchfanatic]

Lol thanks man that is very helpful!

[JasonWW]

@torchfanatic

1. Can you change the colour of the Aux lights like Emisar?
2. What battery gives the most output and performance? I’m using samsung 21700 40t at the moment

1. The colors on this light represent the battery charge, so it’s not just cosmetic. You can however adjust their brightness. The software has settings for 2 different brightness levels, plus each color led has trimers than can be adjusted. So if you don’t care much about the battery function and maybe don’t like the green leds you can simply turn the greens ones off.

2. 40T is a good cell. There is the Shockli 5500mah and its other brands (same PLB 5500mah cell) that is also a good choice. Max performance at the sacrifice of capacity, like a hot rod, is going to be a high drain cell, like 30T. I think most people don’t care about max output, they just want the best overall battery.

[torchfanatic]

Thanks Jason thats good to know!

[BOMBAY]

@JasonWW

I’m trying to think of how the average Joe could fix their lights performance quick and cheap.

Maybe ditch the plastic piece and get some better screws that can transfer heat. Copper screws? That may not do much.

Maybe make a flat C shaped copper bar from some copper sheeting and thermal epoxy it on top of the 7135 chips?

Maybe cut a section of iron pipe that is 4mm thick and drop into place where the plastic and screws go. Then the battery tube will tighten against it?

None of these ideas are all that great, but they can be done without a cnc or milling machine. That’s what I’m trying to avoid.

Ah, the only good fix might be a machined piece, but I doubt they would be cheap to produce.

It would be nice if we could just turn off the thermal stepdown and use our hand to adjust the brightness if it gets too hot.

will removing the plastic cover and using longer copper battery adapters instead of the plastic ones probably be a bad idea?

[KawiBoy1428]

Maybe something like this using copper sealing rings…I have made a few adapters/sinks for Linear drivers… just sinking off the ground ring, as high as 12amps no problem…

Shop by Category | eBay

https://www.amazon.com/18mm-Metric-Shape-Copper-Washer/dp/B00W94J5IS/ref=pd_day0_hl_328_1/130-1557921-9352602?\_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00W94J5IS&pd_rd_r=5c1421bb-d696-4e31-ad7b-f65368c93f21&pd_rd_w=DX2bI&pd_rd_wg=UvEDz&pf_rd_p=0501877d-5f8c-4ec8-9861-e0476eecc53e&pf_rd_r=CNSNMSBWRC37KPJKMR1B&psc=1&refRID=CNSNMSBWRC37KPJKMR1B

[JasonWW]

@BOMBAY

will removing the plastic cover and using longer copper battery adapters instead of the plastic ones probably be a bad idea?

I dont know what a copper battery adapter is. Do you mean a sleeve to center a smaller battery diameter? It would not do anything other than add weight.

[hank]

You don’t want to remove the insulating plastic and replace it with electrically conductive copper.
That would be bad.

[BOMBAY]

ok thanks i just thought it would be a bad idea

[JasonWW]

@hank

You don’t want to remove the insulating plastic and replace it with electrically conductive copper.
That would be bad.

That’s exactly what everyone is doing. Can’t be that bad.

[Dr.Phillip]

@hank

You don’t want to remove the insulating plastic and replace it with electrically conductive copper.
That would be bad.

Well, if you are worrried that you may short the battery positive to the body negative, the shape of the copper should prevent that in all standard battery formats, plus I am considering coating the exposed copper on battery side by insulation. Either liquid electrical tape or some epoxy, not sure which or if jet. I’ll do some measurements, tests and decide based on that. I may not do the coating if I deem it safe for my use. I am talking about the copper insert man of light is designing: MF01 Mini / MT07- Mod/Upgrade - Copper Heatsink Cover Plate

[oweban]

Or just kapton tape

[eclecticepicurean]

Just got my copper-headed mini. Verified the premature thermal step down issue from non-turbo max. Setting temp and limits in software did nothing. However, after the initial step down, if I ramped it back to max, it stayed maxed longer before fading again. Repeating this caused it to stay maxed longer and longer. Anyone else experience this? It might be related to the earlier reported experience with semi-depleted batteries.

Since the temp increased throughout these cycles along with the max ramp duration, doesn’t this rule out thermal issues and suggest a voltage or other electrical sensor problem?