ASTROLUX MF01 Mini - common issues thread

ok thanks i just thought it would be a bad idea

That’s exactly what everyone is doing. Can’t be that bad.

Well, if you are worrried that you may short the battery positive to the body negative, the shape of the copper should prevent that in all standard battery formats, plus I am considering coating the exposed copper on battery side by insulation. Either liquid electrical tape or some epoxy, not sure which or if jet. I’ll do some measurements, tests and decide based on that. I may not do the coating if I deem it safe for my use. I am talking about the copper insert man of light is designing: MF01 Mini / MT07- Mod/Upgrade - Copper Heatsink Cover Plate

Or just kapton tape :slight_smile:

Just got my copper-headed mini. Verified the premature thermal step down issue from non-turbo max. Setting temp and limits in software did nothing. However, after the initial step down, if I ramped it back to max, it stayed maxed longer before fading again. Repeating this caused it to stay maxed longer and longer. Anyone else experience this? It might be related to the earlier reported experience with semi-depleted batteries.

Since the temp increased throughout these cycles along with the max ramp duration, doesn’t this rule out thermal issues and suggest a voltage or other electrical sensor problem?

my mt07 copper behaves identically (sst20 4000K). Probably the regulation works much more efficiently as the battery voltage decreases. I wonder if the same problem occurs in the xpl hi version

I can’t believe so many solutions are focused on dissipating heat when this problem points toward an electrical sensor defect. What can we do to get relief from the manufacturer?

The sensor is inside the MCU. I don’t think all Atmels fail 8n MF01 mini and work fine in other flashlights. You can replace the MCU and got the same effect. So heat sinking is the solution or you need to redesign and remake driver pcb.

What other model shares all of the mini’s electrical components, but experiences no premature throttling?

What inadequate heat sinking theory explains DECREASED throttling during CONSECUTIVE max ramps, while temps INCREASE?

Recap: As the light gets hotter, it stays maxed longer … Maybe because the throttling is not heat-related.

If anyone has 2 batteries, with confirmed identical output, then they could test electrical throttling by heating the light with one battery through repeated max ramps, until it stays maxed significantly longer than the initial cycle. Next, swap that battery with the freshly charged one into the hot light and retest max ramping. If the light prematurely throttles with the fresh battery, then the experiment points to electrical throttling, not thermal?

one solution can be also thermally bound the MCU to the head, so its more reading real temperature than the drivers temp

This could also be very well worth trying. But the AMCs will still e getting really hot, will it not influence them?

the AMCs have also a thermal throttling, so they can’t get too hot, maybe that’s also a cause of the thermal problem

The copper/brass insert the forum member offers with technical drawings and CAD model available to me
and I sent it to Mateminco with the request to update the lights

I already talked with them in the design process about proper heat sinking which got ignored in final builds,
the light was sold pretty quick to counter Fireflies 7x LED light without proper prototype sent for test/review and improvements getting to production model

I kind of hate the fact they changed your design and replaced that mosfet, inductor and diode and messed up that voltage measurement. “Value engineering” is reaching new extremes in china, they replace components worth few cents for ones worth few cents less not caring what the consequences will be… They often manufacture so many thing at the bare minimum requirements for functionality. Sad thing is it prevents them from gaining “brand loyalty”, which could in the end earn them much more. I asked mateminco for how much they would sell me a spare driver (for experimenting, flashing etc) they told me 33.5$/piece. When I asked them what the wholesale price is for 15 flashlights, they also told me 33.5$/piece (i was considering buying 15 flashlights as business gifts to emplyees). They literaly sell driver board at the same price as full assembled flashlights. Not very modding comunity friendly…

Hey guys could someone pls give me step by step instructions on how to calibrate and then set the temp?

What is the recommended temp, I wanted it to be 60 degrees

I think I got lost with my count :person_facepalming:

Watch my video. It is an older version of Anduril but thermal setup is the same. You find it after 10 minutes:

2. Molicel P42A (slightly better than Samsung 40T) making it the best overall high-powered cell out right now as far I know.

https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common18650comparator.php

Samsung 40T starts off barely higher for only a tiny bit, then the Molicel beats it by a pinch the rest of the way and can go higher amps without failing (future proof).

Thanks guys for the video and battery advice.

Will do that!

Anything for a fellow fanatic!

Hello Lexel Are there any news / comments from Mateminko at the moment ?
Is there any hope that the manufacturer will make an update?

I would appreciate any answers. Thanks.