That sounds huge! Don’t get in trouble posting pics.
That’s some pro grade stuff there Grin 
It was just a quick sanity check. I am planning a 200w build.
So, to clarify… This is compatible with the 20V MAX line of battery tools?
“individual cell monitoring” I’ll be interested in seeing this 
I own genuine Dewalt 20v MAX batteries and genuine Dewalt FlexVolt batteries, and it fits them all perfect.
If anyone has trouble seeing images, please let me know. PM is good too. I’m doing it the most convenient way possible, but there are other options.
What is that?
That’s goals being met. The inside-out design is great. It’s light weight, has excellent passive cooling, and takes minimum print time and labor to assemble. There will be a “headlight” mounted to the left and right side. You may have seen or heard in my other threads that what I call a headlight is a ring I designed that mounts a CPU cooler to a tripod. In this case, 2 will thread on to the sides.
ooh, shiny!
Here are the headlight rings! The sanded/painted one sure looks more impressive than the unpainted one! This paint job meets goal #2. To “Outperform expectations on 3D prints”. It doesn’t look cheap now, does it?
Shiny 
It doesn’t.
That paint job looks amazing. 
Nice design chops JoshK. I like where this is going. 
Intrigued subscribed
Ready for takeoff
After a break I am back on the project today. I will start wiring things up. This metallic paint sure is hard to photograph. Notice how different it looks in this pic compared to the last one on a sunny day.
Looks orsm Josh.
Yeh, looks orsm. Like some kinda spaceship only it’s handheld. Like a ghostbusters tool. This is really original and I love it
Very cool!!!
Putting it all together
First, a headlight. The CPU Cooler just press fits in. Then I pull up the two unused wires and clip them. Then tuck them back in.
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Then I solder 8” wires to each pad of the COB. Then apply thermal paste to the heatsink. Then screw the COB on.
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Then I slide a LM7812 voltage regulator into place on the main dock. It fits in upside-down so any heat transfers upwards into the aluminum plate on the bottom of the boost converter. The location also hides and protects its wires. Quite a clever feature if I do say so myself. It worked excellent. I also put the power switch and headlight bolts in place.
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Then I hung the headlights and run their power wires to the 12v output on the regulator. I attached a red and black wire to the other two pins to feed it battery voltage. And the fan ground wires will go to the battery terminal. I had to extend the darn COB wires because I made them too short and it’s a pain to re-solder the other end. Then I was able to route them under the boost-converter’s area.
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I soldered two red wires to the power switch.
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Then I just wired it up to the battery terminals. The boost board only has 2 wires coming in and 2 wires going out. The wires from the voltage regulator just needed battery voltage. And the other two blacks are the ground wires from the fans.
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Then I turned on the power and it was almost flawless. Apparently I had hooked the voltage regulator to un-switched power, so the fans run all the time. That was a super quick fix. As you can see the cell monitor is correctly cycling through the voltages on each cell.
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This thing is awesome! 200 watts of CRI 96 daylight with no hotspot! I will post beamshots tomorrow and maybe a video.
Oh, is this an EDC? 