you have to WAIT for the capacitor to charge up so it gives you the proper maximum mode… give it at least 20 minutes… better yet, give it an hour… better yet, go to sleep, and in the morning all will be working (leave the battery IN the light)
if you use 10440 w eSwitch tools you only get maximum, until the battery drops to 3.8v and after that you will have 3 modes again…
but! 10440 is NOT recommended… use at your own risk
Tell me Jon. What other flashlight do you know of that requires many minutes before its electronic switch capacitor “charges up” to full? I have 6 flashlights with electronic switches. None of them needs more than a few seconds of connectivity. Is there some kind of understood engineering principle at hand here? I’m really curious as to why the light was designed this way.
What happens when you pull the tailcap and use a wire to connect end of battery tube to battery negative?
If you still have hardly any difference between med and high then there may be something wrong with the driver, if it does show strong difference then the electronic switch is the culprit. At least you will know which is problem.
Mine acted somewhat same way till a Regular AAA primary reading 1.58v was inserted, then it charged up that tailcap real quick and we have been up and running just fine back on the Eneloops.
There probably is no stepup to switch voltage so you may need higher voltage one time to get it to spec.
Wish I had a Lithium AAA primary on hand to see how much brighter (if any) these lights get at 1.80 volts that these batteries usually start at when new.
HTH
I just put my Cu Tool w sw45k LED mod on my light meter and it gives 2.3 lumens, 20 lumens, and 80 lumens. The difference is obvious. This particular head is actually a lego of a Maratac head (dont believe their ridiculous lumen claims). I get similar outputs from a Tool Head…
When I got my last 219c Cu Tool, the maximum was 110 lumens. Thats more lumens than the 219b that I prefer. The 219c is greener.
My Cu Tool always has a battery in it, as it is my most used aaa light. I dont have any mode issues.
Great idea, Keith. I found a wire, stripped the ends, and completed the circuit. And YES… now it was clear to me the difference between medium & high. I noticed even medium is brighter without the tail cap. So apparently there must be some kind of current regulation going on in the tail cap and mine is faulty. I installed the tail cap after this test, and now I can’t even get mode changes working properly again. It’s either some sort of medium, then a medium-high, which starts out a little dim while switch is still depressed then brightens a little upon release of button. No low. Hopefully the replacement will be OK.
Even dumber design, then. You have to charge a separate lithium-ion battery in the tailcap, every time you change the “main” battery? I don’t believe it.
I think they’re faulty units. The “charge the tailcap capacitor” is a dumb excuse.
WTH? Nobody makes a flashlight electronic switch like that. Why would they? A li-ion battery would eventually require replacement, having far less lifespan than a capacitor. And a tiny li-ion battery sandwiched inside a tail switch certainly wouldn’t be user serviceable.
See paragraphs [0011] to [0014] if you understand electronics and can get past the machine translation.
EDIT: added pic from T18 in the other thread. Note there’s one more component on the other side of the board (the MOS?) that matches what I can see at the base of the spring on my MassDrop light.
I just got my order for 10 Supercaps today from arrow electronics for building Loneoceans GFS16 FET switches. Ordered a few for spares.
The Seiko Supercaps are tiny and look just like a coin battery. Its only 4.8 mm in diameter. https://www.arrow.com/en/products/xh414hg-iv01e/seiko-instruments-inc
It could be the same one used in these tool switches, I will check next time I take one apart.
.
Edit: I can confirm it is this exact SC, the Seiko XH414HG-IV01E.
if it’s a supercap then it should charge in seconds, not minutes
and something doesn’t make sense.
if it needs to be charged before use then it means there’s no battery inside?
and there was never a battery inside, no testing with a battery at all?
either that or the supercap lost it’s charge. so that means that thiswill just drain the battery all the time.
probably not a good idea to make switches like this