I agree…and at the same time I don’t.
The only mechanical lockout that worked for me with complete reliability was clicky switches. Even twisties would turn on by themselves from time to time.
Clickies work reliably because of the long switch travel - and that long travel makes them bulky.
For most of my use cases the bulk is a larger issue than a more involved startup procedure.
I love Nitecore TINI host (but hate UI). It’s extremely potent for the size. The buttons are easy to find and operate single-handedly. There’s no any physical protection - and with the right UI such protection wouldn’t be needed.
The real game changer for me is the momentary mode while locked out. Many times it enables me to avoid the involved startup procedure.
That, coupled with a number of nice tweaks (memory reset, aux LEDs signalling “hey I’m unlocked”) makes me want to explore avoiding physical lock out.
So far I used to have lights in 3 states:
physically locked out
off
on
off would really be only a temporary state and I would most often shut the light down by cutting the power.
I’d like to experiment with soft lockout because:
it enables aux LEDs working as locator light (and looking cool at the same time)
it can be more reliable in most hosts
it enables more host designs (i.e. TINI- or Aurora- like)
it gives more possibilities for state change. Physical can do only locked-out -> (one whatever mode, typically off). Soft can have direct shortcuts to multiple modes
BTW I experimented with entering the locked out state by the means of cutting the power; quickly twisting the tube back and forth can be less involved than a 3-click. It works reliably when the main LEDs are on, even at moonlight, but not at all with AUX, even when they are bright. Actually on -> locked-out transition is the one I care more about and I’m happy to see it working.
Not really mod. Today I found 3 pcbs for TA fet+1 in my box with junk and decided to solder them. Actually don’t know what to use them for ¯\/¯ Suggestions?
Wow, those where darn good pics, thanks! Sorry I can’t help you with the memory issue.
It looks like it has two Alpha & Omega AON7520 “AlphaMOS” mosfets. I might be wrong on the precise model but that symbol on them is definitely Alpha & Omega.
It would be nice to know what that SVA11 / SVAII thingy is.
At the risk of exposing my lack of electronics knowledge: could those all be FETS? In which case, together with the two big ones, for each power setting a separate channel with FET is used (so no PWM) ?
The two large squares in the center are the primary FETs running in parallel for redundancy / heat spreading / etc. The medium sized three legged chip is the smaller FET that Mike mentioned, usually used for signal control or power under 2 amps. The 10 legged chip is a PIC-style MCU. It’s that 5 legged (SOT23-5 footprint) that runs the FET control show. It’s got to either be a current controller/regulator or op amp. I’m still mildly new to those. I’ve searched for hours to try and identify it, but no luck yet.
I did a lot of mods, upgrades, etc. this last weekend. One of my favorites is to this SK98 I've had sitting around for a while.
I 'helped' TA get rid of some LEDs and I used this 219C, 5000K on a 20mm DTP MCPCB to replace the XM-L.
I replaced an UltraFire 5 mode (H,M,L,Flash,SOS w/memory), 17mm FET driver in a C2 with a Convoy SST40 5A and used the old C2 driver in this 98. Sorry, no picture of that driver but I opened up the hole on a Nanj 20mm contact board, extended the driver's cheap spring, added another (from a bad SP32A driver) as a spacer, soldered the negative outer rings and then by-passed all that resistance. It can pull 6.7A with a Molicel P26A, ouch!
I found out that an S2+, lit switch fits and works fine with the Ultrafire driver. I don't want to burn it all out so I'm using 35Es (~5A).
And the 90+ CRI, 5000K tint is beautiful! with an 'almost' sharp-focused projection of the die.
I’ve tried some reflectors, and at least two TIRs,
some 3mil. some 5mil. XPL2,
some beers,
well today it’s aspheric, lens scratched up the most,
it’s not bright, wont reach far,
but still I must post….
3000k 5mm LED ground and polished plus some silver marker sloppily applied to kill an artifact
Head [dis]assembly.
Took me a while to realize how to make it turn on and off the original way, but it does.
remove the NTC to get rid of it.
Sorry I can’t help you with the memory issue.
retro?