4000k is most popular. And I like it more than others. But 4200/4300k is better. I will have it when I will mix 1pcs 5000k and 2pcs 4000k 3030 smd LEDs sunlike.
If someone ends up with the same bulb and wants to try out all the different combinations, here’s what works.
Note that there are other switch combinations which result in the same COBs being on, but this is just one that I first wrote down before testing and is not necessarily the most logical one. Going through the color temperatures is a bit more intuitive once you get your hands on the bulb, but it’s not super user friendly. This could use a remote or an app
If it says 3 up, it means all the others are down as there’s only two positions.
Looking from the side so that the bulb is facing upwards.
Single COB
2700K All switches up
3200K Rightmost switches (5+6) down
5000K Center and rightmost switches (3+4+5+6) down
5600K All switches down
Two COB mix
2700+3200K Switch 6 down
2700+5000K Switch 4 down
2700+5600K 1+2+3 down
3200+5000K 3+5+6 down
3200+5600K 3 up
5000+5600K 1 up
Three COB mix
2700+3200+5000 4+6 down
2700+3200+5600 3+5 up
2700+5000+5600 2+4 down
3200+5000+5600 1+3 up
All COBs on
2700+3200+5000+5600 2+4+6 down
Yes, that seems confusing, but actually not so. Cycling modes from warmest to coolest in succession without going through all the possible mixes is easy. From all the switches up, just keep pressing the switches down starting from the right one by one and you end up with seven steps, which should give you the desired CCT.
I will not do 9s model anymore =) It was unique - for rewiev SOLs LEDs from SmartEcoLightning co. (it is with the BEST spectrum in the world, better will be StarLike LEDs, but I didn’t tell you this, it is secret) Better than SOLs can be more cheaper LEDs with the same or better quality, but price of leds is not feeld in final price of my bulbs.
But when I produced this model, it was good idea in my mind: I will do S model (13s) with 4 switches, not 2 like in past, and it will be with resistors on it (ordinary and NTC). Previous idea was to use NTC resistor (because with ordinary it will be too much energy when all curent will go to line with resistor) with 2 switches for 4300-4200k middle mode. With 2 switches it is 3 modes, but with 4 switches and resistors it will be 2 types of leds and 9 modes (not 3) with ~2700-3000-3700-4000-4300-4600-4900-5300-5600k
Now I am waiting for NTC resistors to do model in real.
Adam, I'm really glad to have found you online while searching for the Ultimate LED Bulbs, reached you, and that you put enough confidence in us to send you this nicely quadri-equipped bulb so your offering could be tested. With those results I hope many people will now contact you to get those nice bulbs!
And maukka, once again, thanks to have dropped in this Ultimate Light Bulb Quest willingly, and many many thanks for your amazing work with those thorough reviews!
I am going to have to measure my desk lamp to see if one of these can fit. I am a bit concerned about the size and weight though since it’s on one of those spring tension arms. Super high CRI, nice tint sounds like an ideal light for this type of application.
LOL, you should see the .png a marketing company sent me yesterday. It was 627456 bytes originally, but compressed to just 20467 bytes with optipng. That’s 96.7% smaller.
I have no idea how they managed to bloat the image so much. It was bigger than a completely uncompressed raw version of itself.
Adam, would you be interested in selling us the bulbs as a parts kit?
It would make it possible for us to afford more SunLike bulbs. And that would save you a lot of work.
Looks like ShareX isn’t very optimized. Even Photoshop compresses the same PNGs to about 40% of the size (edit: same as OptiPNG it seems). Will have to add the optimizer to the ShareX workflow, thanks!
Adam, what do you think about SOLs 2835 LEDs?
It gives a better $/Watt ratio (but surely requires more efforts on PCB and assembling) comparing with COBs.