If I understand correctly, it’s fine. It just has a different version of the firmware than expected. That firmware has no muggle mode, but it sounds like you don’t care about that mode… so things turned out okay.
1455/5000
Hello ToyKeeper. I wanted to clarify this: I said, of course, that muggle mode does not interest me, but I must specify this: Hank told me that the version without the muggle mode, unlike the others, has manual memory, automatic memory, protection if press and hold the power button and reset to factory mode for too long. Well, all these last functions I consider more useful than the muggle mode. But I always have a big doubt: maybe my D18 is an experimental version? Is it true that the versions with muggle mode do not have the others I specified before, manual memory, etc.? I have not yet verified this with my friends who have the D18 with muggle mode, because I have not yet explained to them how to do the reset and the other functions, manual memory, button protection etc. So I hope you can clear up this doubt for me, because if the versions with the muggle mode have the others, then I’m very unhappy !! My friends also bought the D18 in early November 2019. Hank told me that I could return my D18, but in return, however, I would have received a D18 with muggle mode, but without memory and all the other additional features. I would be very happy if I made some clarity on this point. In the meantime I will also verify this, after having done tests with the d18s of my Italian friends. We, ToyKeeper, greatly admire your genius! A good day, Riccardo.
1337/9000 Hello Riccardo. Let me add some clarity on that point. The versions your friends got with muggle mode are old, and might not have the other additional features. Yours has more functions.
You should be able to verify the version installed by using the version check function. To do this, make sure the light is off, then click 15 or more times. If it is new enough to have the version check function, it should then blink out a number to show the date the firmware was made. On yours, it should be 2 0 1 9 1 1 2 0.
The version check function was added on 2019-09-24. If a light does not have a version check function, that means the firmware is older than that date. There are many possible versions though, and without the version check function the easiest way to tell which one is used is to check for features being there or not.
Here is a list of user-visible changes which are relevant to the D18:
- 2019-11-24: re-added muggle mode
- 2019-11-20: lots of deep code changes to improve reliability (not user visible, but worth mentioning)
- 2019-09-28: stuck button protection now locks the light
- 2019-09-24: stuck button protection added
- 2019-09-24: removed muggle mode (not enough space for it)
- 2019-09-24: version check added
- 2019-07-30: made muggle mode safer
- 2019-06-27: factory reset function
- 2019-06-02: manual memory
- 2019-06-02: slightly faster button clicks
- 2019-05-22: strobe modes auto-reverse on second hold
- 2019-05-22: lockout mode does 2 brightness levels
- 2019-05-22: momentary mode can do strobes too
- 2019-05-22: new thermal regulation algorithm
- 2019-05-18: adjusted candle mode pattern
- 2019-05-15: slightly brighter lightning mode
- 2019-03-29: fixed a small bug in the stepped ramp
- 2019-03-26: first Emisar D18 version
Figuring out which version is installed can be difficult, which is why the version check function was added… and also why muggle mode was gone for a while. The control chip has very limited space, so not everything can fit at the same time.
Hello ToyKeeper, thank you very much for your clarification. I have carried out your orders! Well, my little Beast D18, has version control … but it emits blinking and babbling that I don’t understand very well …. I’m still happy to have discovered this new thing in my d18. On 11/24/2019 you have added a new muggle mode. I imagine that this version also has the others, memory, reset, etc. No problem, for me! These torches are under continuous study and updating, but I think that the previous versions were not useless purchases. Your torches are like a woman who becomes more beautiful every day !! I and my Italian club will buy Emisar always and only from Hank, because only you and Hank offer all the guarantees, the availability and the competence that you do not find from other stores that sell these torches. I had a very bad experience when I bought my first emisar from another store. I don’t say the name out of respect. Now a dream: think how nice, a torch that has colored aux LEDs that can increase the intensity of the light as the main LEDs … a room all lit up with red … green … yellow! I would buy this torch even if it cost a million dollars. Joke, I apologize. All your torches have a price, quality and ingenuity you can’t find in any other torch. Now, for me, the brass Emisar D4 is coming: led neutral wite XPL HI V3 3A. Now my Italian friends will buy it too! Thanks again ToyKeeper, but you are the only one who can clarify our doubts and give explanations. Greetings from Rome (Italy) Riccardo.
Got my D18 when it was first released (got it sometimes early May 2019), so it likely has the 2019-03-29 firmware or even the 2019-03-26…
Looks like there have been lots of useful changes.
I wonder how difficult would it be to update the firmware (I got both the USBASP programmer + SOIC clip, and also Emisar’s programming device for the D4v2). I’ve been able to successfully flash the BLF / Sofirn Q8 / BLF LT1 and the Emisar D4v2, which requires no soldering or removing of glue.
What might be needed to update the D18 firmware? Is soldering required? Removing of glue?
hello to all the friends of the forum. I would be grateful if someone could give me a clarification. I ordered the Emisar D4 v2 brass from Hank. I also bought the flood optic. The question: on Emisar D4 v2 in brass, is the optic glued? If so, I think it is not very easy to change optics. Thank you and greetings from Rome, Riccardo.
Details for that are in my D18 review, including pictures. It doesn’t have flashing pads, so the process is unfortunately pretty involved since it requires taking the driver halfway out.
No the optic is not glued in. You might need a little screwdriver since it fits tight and flush with the light to wedge it out.
Thank you Atobe for the answer; you clarified a doubt. Good day, Mario from Rome.
Hello, I have a weird behavior with Anduril since I put a 30A VTC6 inside my FW3A. Here are the steps to reproduce :
1 Set memory to automatic, turn the light on and set the brightness to about half (with either stepped or smooth ramp)
2 click to turn the light off
3 click + click and hold for 3 seconds
Expected behavior :The light should start on your last brightness set in step 1 and decrease to floor.
Actual behavior : light starts at ceiling or turbo and decreases to floor.
This behavior only happens when the light is started from off. Doing step 3 when the light is already ON yields the expected behavior
How long pause do you make between the first and second click in point 3 - “click + click and hold for 3 seconds”?
If it’s too short, the clicks are interpreted as double click => max ramp and the subsequent hold decreases brightness towards floor (single hold pressed quickly after reaching ceiling decreases brightness).
Depending on the “rhythm” of this sequence, you can get the expected behavior, or the behavior described as “actual”, or reach the strobes…
Oh alright, I was doing it very fast. I remember getting the expected behavior pretty much everytime. I’ll now try waiting between the clicks a bit longer.
Hi JiggyJinjo. I’ll explain, I hope, how Anduril works according to what you’ve written.
- Set the automatic memory
- Set the brightness to about half
- Turn off the torch.
Now this happens - If you make a click from off and immediately after click and hold, it is normal for the torch to go up and then start to go down.
- Turn on the torch, wait a little and then immediately click twice and hold the second click, the flashlight starts to go down from the set level, as you yourself have verified. So, if I understand correctly, the behavior of your torch is normal. Have a nice day, Riccardo.
Here is the intended behavior from off:
- 1C (1 click): go to memorized level
- 1H (press and keep holding): go to the floor level and then ramp up
- 2C (2 clicks): go to the ceiling level
- 2H (press, release, press, keep holding): go to the ceiling level and then ramp down
The only action which goes to the memorized level is a single click.
While the light is on, the actions are a little different:
- 1C (1 click): off
- 1H (hold): ramp up (unless the button was released less than 1 second ago, in which case, ramp down)
- 2C (2 clicks): turbo
- 2H (press, release, press, keep holding): ramp down
So, to turn the light on at the memorized level and then ramp down, the user should:
- 1C (click 1 time)
- wait a moment (~300ms or more)
- 2H (press, release, press, keep holding)
I hope this makes sense.
Thank you ToyKeeper for your very clear explanations!
Where can I set the max level after a double click from off? It’s max ceiling I guess.
I tried
#define RAMP_SMOOTH_CEIL MAX_LEVEL - 30
in 369 line, but it doesn’t works.
I want to have it lower even after reset. I’m using fw3a files.
Hello. Let’s start with order. I try to explain various passages. How to set the maximum level after a double click from off?
Reply. 1) make the setting on the ramp you usually use…you can also do it on the other ramp.
2) example: smooth ramp: turn on the flashlight, click 4 with the flashlight on to enter ramp configuration mode.
3) after the first flash, while there is flicker (low level setting, floor), you do nothing.
4) after the second flash, during the flicker (high level setting, ceiling), click only once, and you will have set the ceiling to the maximum level (turbo).
Now, if you double click with the flashlight off, the flashlight will go up in turbo.
Then I didn’t quite understand what you want to achieve after the flashlight reset.
In the meantime, you should know which torch you are using and if this torch has the possibility of being reset to factory values.
After a reset, the torch returns to factory values. The factory value of the ceiling is always set to a value lower than the maximum one; now I don’t remember well … it should be 120/150.
So if, after a reset, you double click off, the flashlight will go up to a lower level than the turbo, I imagine a level 30 times lower.
If you have set the ceiling to the maximum level, as I explained above, to return to the factory level, you will have to click 31 clicks in the ceiling setting mode.
. this, of course, works in a flashlight that has Anduril UI and the ability to return to factory levels.
I hope ToyKeeper can participate in this discussion to clarify it well.
I don’t think you understood my post. I want to reduce this value during compilation. I know how to do it by clicking.
Edit.
I found it.
On line 367 instead of:
should be:
Hello all,
Was searching a lot on BLF to hopefully find an answer to a question I have about thermal regulation for the Anduril UI for the D4v2 light but I am having difficulty locating my answer. Does anyone know what the max temp is you can set the thermal regulation to? For example can you go higher than 65C etc? Just to note I would never set it that high, I just wanted to know what the highest potential could be. Also, if I wanted to set the thermal regulation to kick on at 55C or 60C what would I do? Any help is appreciated.
Thanks