*BLF LT1 Lantern Project) (updated Nov,17,2020)

Just found a tint ramp bug on my LT1. You may reproduce it as follows:

1. Reset to factory default (not really necessary, just to ensure a common beginning)
2. Enter the lowest brightness with the default stepped ramping.
3. Ramp the tint to the warmest or the coldest side.
4. Now stepped ramp to higher brightness levels, and you’ll see it. If you chose to ramp the tint to the warmest side, now the tint gets cooler when the brightness is ramping up. If you chose to ramp the tint to the coldest side, now the tint gets warmer when the brightness is ramping up.

Not a bug, but a feature? :stuck_out_tongue:

I’m unable to flash my LT1 because the programming holes don’t work as they should. I explained the programming issue here: BLF LT1 Runtime test *updated 12/11 with step level 2*

It is not a firmware problem, it is the design. One can choose to have warm tint at low light, and cool tint at bright light, or the converse. That has been discussed in this thread previously.

regarding the programming pads,

Not sure what version of the programming key you have, but it appears some small mods need to be made to work with the LT1. I don’t know anything more than this regarding the key. I do know that connecting directly to the chip works fine.

It’s supposed to do that. :person_facepalming:

take it up with ToyKeeper if you like.

Good. Thanks for the info. It’s almost impossible to follow ~9900 posts to learn this fact… :person_facepalming:

Of course I’m using the Lexel one, not the Emisar one. I own both, and I have confirmed that the pins on the Lexel one do match those holes on both ROT66G2 and LT1. However that just didn’t work. I don’t like to pull out the driver each time for a firmware upgrade.

I also soldered wires directly from those programming “holes” to the USBASP programmer. However it didn’t work either. So most likely those holes themselves are not working at all in the design circuit, or both my ROT66G2 and LT1 are defective units.

I did successfully reflash my Emisar D4S, D4V2, Fireflies E01, PL47G2. I suppose I know how to do this correctly with programming “holes” or “pads”.

I hear you.

Regarding the programming, maybe Lexel can help here then. I don’t know the order of the pads, but one could fairly easily figure out what pads go to which pins on the Attiny85, but it would require removing the board once.

Lexel did test a prototype board, and I’m almost certain ToyKeeper has reprogrammed the LT1 via the pads several times, as she provided me a few builds to test. Maybe she also knows if there is some specific wire swap that needs to be made.

Sorry I can’t help more, if/when you learn something please post it.

Sure, thanks :wink:

The facepalm was for the “bug” comment, not the tint ramping feature.

I’m fine with another one in black (better to hide it from the wife :smiley: ), let others have what they want.

I started a thread on LT1 Carry Cases to capture carry case information outside of this monster of a thread. Your dimensions are there.

For what is a reflective coating necessary?

I thought you can calculate the loss of the body by:

  1. use the empty sphere with the reference calibration light
  2. use the sphere with the off/dark lantern and the reference calibration light
  3. calculate how much light the lantern body absorbed
  4. then measure the brightness of the lantern
  5. use the calculated correction for the body.

(sorry if already answered, I am 300 posts or so behind)

It uses Lexel’s standard layout, and the mappings are also printed on the circuit board if you have a way to look closely enough. Then match those up to the usbasp’s pinouts and it should work.

If you’ve successfully flashed a FF PL47 or FF E01, the same adapter should work for the LT1.

Here are the pinouts on both ends:

It’s not strictly necessary, especially in a large sphere. In a small sphere though, having a big black object inside might reduce the integrating capabilities enough to cause issues, and making those parts reflective could potentially reduce that effect.

I don’t know if it would really be helpful or not; it’s just an obvious thing to try if measuring in a relatively small sphere.

Thanks ToyKeeper :beer:

That’s also my understanding. However the same configuration works well on PL47G2 and E01, but never works, on neither ROT66G2 nor LT1. That’s why I reported this problem here.

I’ve tried hundreds of times, spending hours on this. I even soldered wires directly from those programming holes on the driver board to my USBASP programmer, trying to flash without the adapter. Still failed.

EDIT: Actually I reported this problem to Fireflies weeks ago when encountering this problem on my ROT66G2.
Later they told me they contacted the foreign author of the driver circuit but no response from him (thus no answer for me). Now since I meet exactly the same problem on LT1, I report it again here.

toobadorz, I’m sure you are frustrated with this situation, and I understand that frustration. I’m curious if you have the means to perform a continuity check between the pads on the LT1 and the Attiny85. If you do decide to try this, it helps to free up the Attiny if you rotate the board to untwist the wires that go to the LEDs. It would be helpful to others to know if/what the circuit card error is, or if it turns out somehow it is your setup, then you can maybe learn how to fix the setup to program the LT1.

sbslider, thanks for saying that.

When pulling out the ROT66G2 dirver (after all the experiments mentioned before), I damaged some components accidentally, and now the MCU is not responding even with a programming clip. So now I cannot be sure if the programming holes are already defective by its design or mine is simply a defective unit. But how come I’m not able to program LT1 with its programming holes either? No, I don’t like to pull out the LT1 driver, in case it can get damaged as my ROT66G2 too…

And that’s also why I post here — I’m curious if someone else, who also has a LT1 or ROT66G2 production unit and the Lexel programming key, may have encountered a similar issue. I would like to have more ROT66G2 / LT1, but I must confirm if this is a common situation first.

There are also other cases on Ali

Look at Ali:
I posted a case for Bose Soundlink a while ago
Bose SoundLink Revolve
15,2 cm x 8,2 cm x 8,2 cm (HxBxT) (0,66 kg)
case:

That’s strange, because the same key works for me on PL47G2, E01, ROT66G2, and LT1. Also on some Mateminco lights, and PL47 original. For the FF E07 it works only if I disconnect the aux LEDs first.

I’ve only needed three adapters to flash things so far:

  • SOIC8 clip
  • Emisar pogo pin adapter
  • Lexel’s pogo pin adapter

The HQ Progkey can do either of the pogo pin layouts, but needs a couple wires moved… so I keep two different ones in order to avoid switching it all the time.

That’s probably too small. LT1 is 17.6cm tall and looks like the 15.2cm Bose speaker fills the case almost edge to edge.