*BLF LT1 Lantern Project) (updated Nov,17,2020)

It uses Lexel’s standard layout, and the mappings are also printed on the circuit board if you have a way to look closely enough. Then match those up to the usbasp’s pinouts and it should work.

If you’ve successfully flashed a FF PL47 or FF E01, the same adapter should work for the LT1.

Here are the pinouts on both ends:

It’s not strictly necessary, especially in a large sphere. In a small sphere though, having a big black object inside might reduce the integrating capabilities enough to cause issues, and making those parts reflective could potentially reduce that effect.

I don’t know if it would really be helpful or not; it’s just an obvious thing to try if measuring in a relatively small sphere.

Thanks ToyKeeper :beer:

That’s also my understanding. However the same configuration works well on PL47G2 and E01, but never works, on neither ROT66G2 nor LT1. That’s why I reported this problem here.

I’ve tried hundreds of times, spending hours on this. I even soldered wires directly from those programming holes on the driver board to my USBASP programmer, trying to flash without the adapter. Still failed.

EDIT: Actually I reported this problem to Fireflies weeks ago when encountering this problem on my ROT66G2.
Later they told me they contacted the foreign author of the driver circuit but no response from him (thus no answer for me). Now since I meet exactly the same problem on LT1, I report it again here.

toobadorz, I’m sure you are frustrated with this situation, and I understand that frustration. I’m curious if you have the means to perform a continuity check between the pads on the LT1 and the Attiny85. If you do decide to try this, it helps to free up the Attiny if you rotate the board to untwist the wires that go to the LEDs. It would be helpful to others to know if/what the circuit card error is, or if it turns out somehow it is your setup, then you can maybe learn how to fix the setup to program the LT1.

sbslider, thanks for saying that.

When pulling out the ROT66G2 dirver (after all the experiments mentioned before), I damaged some components accidentally, and now the MCU is not responding even with a programming clip. So now I cannot be sure if the programming holes are already defective by its design or mine is simply a defective unit. But how come I’m not able to program LT1 with its programming holes either? No, I don’t like to pull out the LT1 driver, in case it can get damaged as my ROT66G2 too…

And that’s also why I post here — I’m curious if someone else, who also has a LT1 or ROT66G2 production unit and the Lexel programming key, may have encountered a similar issue. I would like to have more ROT66G2 / LT1, but I must confirm if this is a common situation first.

There are also other cases on Ali

Look at Ali:
I posted a case for Bose Soundlink a while ago
Bose SoundLink Revolve
15,2 cm x 8,2 cm x 8,2 cm (HxBxT) (0,66 kg)
case:

That’s strange, because the same key works for me on PL47G2, E01, ROT66G2, and LT1. Also on some Mateminco lights, and PL47 original. For the FF E07 it works only if I disconnect the aux LEDs first.

I’ve only needed three adapters to flash things so far:

  • SOIC8 clip
  • Emisar pogo pin adapter
  • Lexel’s pogo pin adapter

The HQ Progkey can do either of the pogo pin layouts, but needs a couple wires moved… so I keep two different ones in order to avoid switching it all the time.

That’s probably too small. LT1 is 17.6cm tall and looks like the 15.2cm Bose speaker fills the case almost edge to edge.

The answer received from 77Outdoor reveals thathat the lantern I ordered is yet to be proproduced...

hi, the batteries that come with the lantern, any good?
what would be other recommended alternatives?

Sofrin batteries seem OK so far from all reports I saw, other batteries with bigger capacity will of course last longer…

Yeah, that’s really strange.

Just curious if this is commonly seen on the production units of the two lights…

I finally had to recharge my LT1, after plenty of use. I enjoyed finally seeing the various LED colours for myself.

However, since charging, when the lantern is off, it is doing a strange two-level flash with the orange LED in the button: off, low, off, high. I can’t find any reference to what this means. Battcheck says 4.2v. is there something I overlooked?

Have you done a 7x click? On Ardúril lights with AUX LEDs, this changes the LEDs from low > high > beacon > off, and it also affects the switch backlight.

not sure why this would have changed from before charging, but if you press the on-off switch 7 times, starting with the LT1 from the off position, the behavior of the switch LED will change to next off, 7 clicks again will make the backlight low, 7 more clicks to the backlight on high, then 7 more clicks to the state you described above.

Looks like I came in 2nd place here . . . :person_facepalming:

Thank you both for your help. I have not clicked it seven times, however I can easily imagine my son doing exactly that. Thanks for the lightning fast responses!

There are two versions - one is too short, the other may work but is a little wide.
See the LT1 Carry Case thread.

Does anyone know when the second batch his getting shipped out? From amazon?

I received a code for the second light I have my name down for this morning. My place is the list wfor light #2 was in the high 300’s.