I generally don’t have an issue with the firmness of the FWxx switch (I always use lockout), but this light in particular had a defect. The diameter of the nubbin was fine, it was just too long. It was physically longer than the nubbins in my other FWxx lights and was pre-loading the switch when the tailcap was tightened down.
I didn’t replace the nubbin with an whole o-ring, I cut a short piece out of the cross-section of a sufficiently thick o-ring to produce a new nubbin which fits in the original location. It’s a tiny bit larger diameter than the original but the rubber stretches to accommodate.
It definitely has made the switch more stable when pressing off-axis and has improved the tactility, even over my other FWs with properly fitted nubbins from the factory. It’s not immediately apparent to me why this would be. Perhaps a combination of the more pliant material and the slightly larger diameter?
I was always using lockout because of the switch sensitivity. But now I don’t bother with the 5/32” o-ring. I lock out the light when I put it away. Yep, I got that you cut the o-ring, but didn’t quite get that “long” meant “thick”. This o-ring segment technique is interesting. You can cut a variety of thicknesses to see what works best.
i didn;t think it had a manual memory [no memory] option…
?
one comment - it will do this [start on low], if you happen to hold the button down ‘too long’
it is a feature, to be sure you have a way to start on low
but you have to hold the button down maybe half a second
maybe your button is ‘sticky’ so that it thinks you are doing a slow press for start-on-low?
Manual memory mode on Anduril software is 5 clicks from ON (“5C”). Automatic memory is 5 clicks, but HOLD the last click, from ON (“5H”). See flow chart.
Edit — Oops. Looks like the Anduril version in the FW3As may not have selectable memory mode. Sorry ’bout that.
I have 9 lights with 3 different firmware…. :person_facepalming:
I bought 5 brand new drivers from Lumintop, I used 3 so far… 1 of them has the memory option… so far… the other 2 new drivers are waiting to be used… WTF?
Mine flickered, but only on lower settings, same thing on three different bodies, cleaning threads, tightening retaining rings, nothing helped! replaced all 7135s, same thing checked solder joints, did most everything except replacing the mcu. By that time I received a replacement driver which fixed the problem. Definitely exhaust all the possibilities, but in the end you may have similar results.
Has anyone here dropped their FW3C and suffered notable dents? Just curious about the copper alloy, as raw copper is inherently soft, prone to denting.