Oh, so you didn’t reflash it to a newer version, it came with the newer version?
I’ve found some lights have manual memory. Some don’t. Hard to predict what you will get.
Correct, I did not reflash, my FW3T came with the firmware with the memory options, from Illumn.
So now I have two lights with different firmware and it’s bugging me 
I should have read more and bought both from Illumn instead of rushing into the FW3A purchase from another vendor
I have 9 lights with 3 different firmware…. :person_facepalming:
I bought 5 brand new drivers from Lumintop, I used 3 so far… 1 of them has the memory option… so far… the other 2 new drivers are waiting to be used… 
WTF?
I wash my copper fw3a sometimes in the sink i let it be there for a while, no problems so far…
What would cause flickering not in candle mode or anything
Dirty threads or the ends not tightened enough.
Mine flickered, but only on lower settings, same thing on three different bodies, cleaning threads, tightening retaining rings, nothing helped! replaced all 7135s, same thing checked solder joints, did most everything except replacing the mcu. By that time I received a replacement driver which fixed the problem. Definitely exhaust all the possibilities, but in the end you may have similar results.
Has anyone here dropped their FW3C and suffered notable dents? Just curious about the copper alloy, as raw copper is inherently soft, prone to denting.
My FW3A was acting strange.
After turning it on, I would try to ramp to change the brightness, and the FW3A would turn off!
So I started reading the OP of this thread...
...I followed those directions, and now it works fine. 
I'm very glad this thread exists.
Thanks for the help!
^ Yep, driver retaining ring and the tail cap — both being loose will end up creating strange behavior. I think that’s pretty much it, though. Easy to correct both! Unfortunately, this light is not turning out to be very user friendly, reliability wise. A number of people I know would be stumped by such a problem and put it down in favor of another light.
How to solve an issue of the FW3A starts to step down automatically almost immediately to a very low brightness level? This happens in both stepped and ramped modes. Many thanks.
Two main reasons, it thinks it’s too hot or the voltage is too low.
If the battery is charged up, then I would calibrate the internal temp sensor.
Did the light in question used to work properly and this behavior is new? Or is it acting like this new, out of the box.?
Battery is fully charged and it doesn’t get hot as it steps down immediately.
It doesn’t have to get hot, it just needs to think it’s hot. It’s internal temperature calibration may be off, that’s why I say it may need to be calibrated. Instructions are in the first post.
Might also be a bad connection.
Check the contact ring on the backside of the driver for debris, plus each end of the battery tube and the tailcap contact ring.
I’ve never heard of this happening so it should be fine.
Yes, thermal config is stored to the EEPROM, so it is kept even when removing power.
Potential short circuit in the tailcap between the spring and the track, reported by DBSAR , continues on the FW21.
Today I received an FW21 and when doing the visual inspection prior to commissioning it can detect it.
I will correct it by rotating the spring.