[MOD] Armytek Wizard Pro XHP50 to 4x Nichia E21A

Thanks man. Oh one more thing, does any one notice how the nonpro version will blink everytime you bump the taipcap (e.g stick the magnet tail onto a metal object). I believe this happen because the light use only 1 spring in the battery compartment, but why don’t this happen to the pro one?

Its easy to fix. Pull the spring a little to make it longer.

I did, no help. I also tried protected cell wich is longer and still can’t fix it. I also tried 6 different tail cap with thesame result. And this happen to every nonpro light but not the pro version

[quote=nobeltnium]

See here . No reason do be upset anymore. :wink:

Super gei :smiley: :smiley: :smiley: :smiley:

so is turbo OTF 1200 Lumens?.
E21A x 4. 6500
thanks.

How did you modify your optic to make such more light output? Did you drill it to make more space?

Also I notice you use different led piece for your flashlight, use 4000k and 5000k of two each; why do you do that and does it make better overall tint and CRI? but does it make light color look odd (diagonal different color) or is it not possible to see after use optic to diffuse?

What are the dimensions of the glass lens of the Wizard?

I did that because there wasn’t 4500K pure CCT. It works fine and many of our friends like it too. Now we know that mixing CCTs can also move the tint above/below BBL to fine tune your preferred tint (not CCT). If you want to see how a mixed CCTs looks like you can check Steel_1024, SKV89, Texas_Ace, Ryzbor, and many other’s beam shots.

19,8mm x 1mm. Get it cheap via Kaidomain

A bit more than that. Ask Bob_McBob, he just built another 6500K E21A Wizard Pro. I have none left to test

[Clemence]

so what driver is in Clemence’s Wizard Pro’s E21A’s that were Built?.
Boost?.

thanks.

Boost.

thank you great Sword!.

Clemence, was the stock MCPCB easy to remove? I tried removing the MCPCB on my Prime C2 Pro. It doesn’t have retaining screws like the Wizard Pro, instead the positive and negative wires from the driver come through the screw holes. I got it tot move slightly but it just didn’t want to come out.

[Clemence]

Thank you!

In the Wizard Pro, does the optic sit in a centering ring? Or does the lip around the top of the optic rest on the head? My Prime C2 Pro has a centering ring for the optic. A straight Yajiamei optic swap was possible and the result is a much better beam.

My Tiara C1 Pro is on the way and I will try out a VR16SP4m E17A mod. If the results are good, I will order a Wizard Pro and try a VR16SP4 v2 E21A mod. It all depends on the optic sits in the Wizard Pro.

In Wizard/Tiara, the lens hanging and centered by the head, not the LED/MCPCB. Modify the optic to fit 4x E21A. Shown in the thread below:

You have to make at least 0,2mm clearance above quadtrix E21A because the hole/cavity in the lens (be it OEM or Yajiamei) is not large enough to encase all those E21A. The lens will also compressed a little after you put the stainless steel bezel back, risking to crush the fragile LED beneath…

[Clemence]

What about this optic?

| LED Lens CREE XML T5/T6/U2 Lenses Diameter 20mm 20,38,60 deg Bead surface 5050 lens, XLamp XM-L Lamp lens
https://a.aliexpress.com/0UxdItAG3

It is made for a 5050 LED and according to VR16SP4M v2 schematics the quad array is 4.4x4.4mm. The legs on these optics are 1mm long and can be modified slightly to sit even closer to the LED’s.

I have an og run Wizard Pro V3 (XHP50 Warm) complete with a cracked lens that was very common on these original run Pros - still works fine though. @clemence or anyone else still modding these for a E21As?