I have the MT-G2 in a lot of very different lights, such as the Nitecore TM-03, a 2D Maglite with a fiber optic battery indicator, a Lucky Sun D80, Solarforce K3, S2200, M8, and C2000 , as well as my DBC-05 triple, the BTU Shocker, and the TR-J20. Also have a hybrid TIR over an MT-G2 in an L6. And of course, I have an X6 with the fat MT-G2 and an extension tube.
One of the major differences is the array status of the big emitter, itâs almost like a COB really. So the quality of the light is due to the 72 small die surfaces most likely. When I was building the M8 I didnât have a suitable driver back then so I ran it literally direct drive, it would pull just over 16A at about 4300 lumens. Ah, the good ol days! lol
Probably funny questions, but Iâm still too young here.
I have this flashlight disassembled for a long time because I donât know how to do heat dissipation well. Do you have any great solution or did you leave it as is?
I was one of the team on the X6 group buy, there were a few extension tubes made for the team. They missed the length but I have worked around that⊠interestingly enough that was another Neal failure, not only was the length wrong but the MT-G2âs he sent for me to build team lights were also wrong⊠he sent 9V instead of 6V MT-G2âs.
Iâve had this light forever. I like the host, but the multi led head wasnât cutting it for me. Iâd been thinking about modding it and happened to realize one day that it was really darn close to fitting a P60. So a cheap P60 from mtn electronics with a 8x7135 driver and a Nichia 219c were made to fit. Had to do some filing on the reflector, but it works beautifully now.
Modified two cheapo lights with better leds, they both came with XPE leds (at least they look like it, they maybe clones but who cares they are out now) and they were with very angry blue tint, probably 7000k.
Considering the price the build quality is okay, the lens are plastic and there is no shelf but it does not matter, after all it is cheap AAA light with probably 50ish lumens at best.
One of them got Cree XP-G2 S3 3D that i had laying around from my Noctigon Meteor and the other one received Nichia 219c 2700k 90cri led, yeah i know that Nichia is worth more money than the light itself lol.
In a previous post about my Olight S1R Baton II aux LED mod I complained about the protruding center charging contact that drains the battery when placed on a flat, metal surface and also affects the tailstand stability. Today I took this âlight that I do not wantâ and tried to fix this issue.
To my surprise the tailcap/end of the flashlight was relatively easy to disassemble. I didnât expect this from a shiny, bling-bling, mass market, âpremiumâ flashlight. But I have to say that the flashlight is engineered really well. They could have made a really awesome flashlight with just a high CRI LED.
Here are the parts of the tailcap/end laid out:
From left to right we have:
Plastic (!) retaining ring that keeps everything at the right place
PCB with the outer spring and central contact on the back; a curved spring washer contact on the front which makes contact with the tube. Also the riveted central pin that is visible from the outside. (Wait â that pin in negative, but the center of the battery is positive! This means that the rivet and the ring shaped inner contact, that are less than 1 mm apart from each other, have different polarity! But it should be protected by the circuit.) There are also two chips and a few resistors.
O-ring that sits around the central pin
A plastic spacer that is slid over the contact and o-ring
The magnet that sits around the plastic spacer
Another o-ring that seals the top of the plastic spacer with the hole in the flashlight case
The two chips are labeled â2408 LV15â (probably a AON2408 n-channel MOSFET in DFN package) and â12Bâ (donât know what it is). The traces are not visible under the black solder mask.
And now to the fix for the protruding contact: I made a plastic washer, inner diameter 5 mm, outer diameter 8 mm and a thickness of 0.4 mm. This washer is placed around the riveted pin, then everything else is put on top. The o-ring seal should still work, but the contact does not protrude as much as before anymore. 0.6 mm might have been better (it still makes contact with a flat surface, but is at the same height as the outer, silver ring). To put everything back in the tube I used a PVC pipe. This also helps to press the retaining ring far enough.
Nice job. That is a new and interesting LED. The dies are very close together so should make a nice intense beam. Did you happen to get a precise measurement of the dimensions of the dies?
Edit: I guess we can assume it has 7mm^2 total area based on luminus naming. The xhp35 has 6.25mm^2 based on my measurements and the xhp50.2 has 8mm^2 (though the xhp50.2 effective area is a bit bigger because of the space between the dies).
I did some pixel counting measurements and it does appear to be 7.0mm^2. It seems that this emitter is putting out about 80% lumens/mm^2 vs both the SST20 and 40. So itâs fair to predict that this SST70(dedomed) will provide 35HI throw with a proportional 15-20% bump in lumens according to die size.
{sending prayers for HiCRI and 3V versions} Since itâs based on 4xSST20 dies HiCRI it might have a chance of happening. Looking at the bond wire configuration, it looks like weâre stuck with 6VâŠ
Skylight, are you able to take any relative output measurements ?
I didnât measure the die size. I could have done that but itâs too late as it is mounted now. It is quite a bit smaller than the dedomed XHP50.2 and more like the die size of a SST40.
Iâm waiting for a high CRI or 5000K version as well. It should have a rosy tint because the one I used is rather green.
At the moment I canât take any measurements, only comparisons with other flashlights and beamshots. The hotspot and throw is similar to the FT03 SST40.
A light meter and a clamp meter are on the way, though.
Not sure about that particular Olight SammysHP but most Batons (or the ones I have) are using the positive end of the cell at the tail of the light. Positive through the host body? This set up is a large reason I donât have more Olight flashlights.
I modded my s2+ driver to dual channel 1x 7135 + 10x 7135 and added an otc capacitor for the Blf a6 firmware by toykeeper. I removed one 7135 regulator from the 8x 7135 group by cutting its vcc track underneath the attiny13 and bridged it to pin 5 instead to create the new 1x 7135 group.