Noctigon K1 info / review

D4S and D4SV2 tubes are too wide.I ried a lot of different battery tubes and the only one I have that matched up was the FT03.

Took my new K1 W1 for a 5 mile hike last night. It is really amazing to light up a house on the other side of the lake, over half a kilometer away.
Great for spotting Opossums, Nutra Rats, Herons, Ducks, etc. Really freaks them out when you hit them with that blinding beam :smiley:
But, as was mentioned by others, this really is a specialized light, not at all practical for just walking around. It’s kind of an all or nothing type light.
So I just ordered another one with the XPL HI V2 5D :smiley:

I blasted a skunk the other night with my W30vn. It got freaked out and ran. I thought animals are not afraid of bright light lol.

arrived

Mine is sitting at LAX since December 9th

So how does this light compares to the Astrolux FT03 SST40? Has anyone posted a comparison beamshot between the two?

Thanks!

Not even close. My FT03 SST40 is a flood light compared to the crazy tight beam of the K1 W1. This picture shows both lights about 25 feet from the wall. Both lights are set near the low end of their intensity range. And, yes, the SST40 really is that ugly green tint :confounded:

How would a Convoy L2 W1 compare with the K1 W1?

8 of em??

W1 = narrower but more intense hotspot

W2 = wider but less intense hotspot, more heat, less runtime

If the goal is to make a small area as bright as possible, W1 should work better. The extra lumens of the W2 model don’t make it brighter, they just make the hotspot bigger. Basically, it’s a choice between a spot 10 units wide and 13 units bright, or a spot 15 units wide and 11 units bright.

The W1 uses 4.9A on turbo. So with a 5000 mAh cell, runtime in an ideal scenario would be about 61 minutes.

The W2 uses 7.8A on turbo. So with a 5000 mAh cell, runtime in an ideal scenario would be about 38 minutes.

In both cases, any voltage excess between the input and the output is discarded as heat.

All other things being equal, higher-amp cells tend to maintain higher voltage under load, so they have more excess voltage to discard and tend to make a bit more heat. They also are able to stay in regulation for more of their total runtime, and then drop off faster once they fall out of regulation.

The goal for a linear driver like this is to keep the input voltage just slightly above the output voltage. This keeps the output flat while maximizing efficiency and minimizing heat.

Since the K1 W1 uses a maximum of 4.9A, the amps aren’t really high enough to need a high-amp cell. Extra voltage from a high-amp cell would mostly just make the regulation circuit hotter. High-amp cells almost always hold less total energy too, which reduces runtime. More heat, less runtime.

So the best batteries available are probably the high-capacity type like 50E, which aims for maximum mAh.

+1!!! He really is an enthusiast like us to bring such perfect products that please even the most hardcore players

Very close, the head of the K1 is a little larger.

This light looks awesome! I only have one Osram light and dang it is a tight spot. Just waiting for some more beam shots to decide on best emitter. If you just want throw go with the w1. Gonna be tight!

I agree, for the fun factor W1 is the way to go but W2 is probably a little more practical. However W1 still has a nice amount of spill.

Thanks for the great replies. Thank you, @Toykeeper for clarifying all that for me. I continue to lean toward the W1 and appreciate the battery advice. Anyone know the beam angle of the hotspot only (Please tell me if you’re using half beam or full beam) for the W1 and W2?

Or tell me how wide the hot spot is at any specified distance from 10’ - 20’?

Last question, I promise! :slight_smile:

Thanks.

Am waiting for

21700 version, No usb charging(less things go wrong), XHP 35 Hi + 80 CRI like Zebralight, 2500-3000 Lumens output and fully potted driver

if happened am in for 5 lights

XHP 35 HI +80 CRI and 2500-3000 Lumens, you have fantastic expectations

Lol exactly, it’ll be fantastic if on a single cell it can maintain >2000lm for very long at all.

No ZL gets anywhere close to 2500lm on an XHP35 because they don’t overdrive their emitters hard.

Indeed.

Most notably the waiting for a 21700 version is a very interesting one.