depend wich arrive later at 55°C
That mean it have better heat management
but yes they are very similar,apart pill S21A that I like much,hope to see this pill in copper for single and triple/quad.
I’ve seen solder wick broken so many times I won’t use it for a bypass, don’t even own any. I use Turnigy wires and always try to put a bit of a coil on them so they compress rather than bend.
I don’t like button contacts on the driver. I consider it much better to have springs at both ends of the light.
That way you don’t get a momentary disconnect if you drop the light on its tail and the cell pulls away from the driver button as it bounces on the tail spring. Those momentary disconnects create an unwanted mode change on lights with reverse clicky tail switches and a half-press mode change UI. Really annoying if your light just went from moonlight to turbo or vice versa.
Springs at both ends also help to prevent “cell hammer”, which is what happens after a really nasty drop where the tail spring propels the cell back into the driver with such force that the driver PCB cracks and kills the driver.
Spring bypasses with multi-stranded flexible silicone-insulated wire are the value option, and double springs (as you said) are the gold standard.
I was asking because I needed to illuminate dark basement while working for few hours, so I was thinking about putting the flashlight into glass of watter to keep it cold, so it could run on turbo for infinite time
Could anybody tell me the diameter of the battery tube? I want to buy one shockli 21700 4550 22a/30a for the s21a that is coming but I think it will be too thick.
Nice it has a true Constant Current FET driver, but a shame a 10% mode was sacrificed for a moon mode.
In fact, it seems all Convoy drivers have sacrificed a necessary mode for a moon mode, ruining the mode spacing.