Drop.com $20 off - Lumintop Copper/Brass Tool for $10 - Discount not available as of 12/10/19

[jon_slider]

@moderator007

I managed to rip the negative led wire pad off the driver

youve got Skills!

I only managed to rip a solder pad off the mcpcb, no damage to the driver…

I dont have any 10mm replacement xp mcpcb, but was happy to use Clemences 10mm board w E21a 3500k… Im Loving My Warm High CRI Tool! lol

If I had your skills, I would figure out how to change the driver to MLH… as it is I always have to click 3x to get useful light (medium is 14 lumens) for the majority of my tasks

some details about mcpcb
stock tool mcpcb is 1 mm thick
there are replacements available, but they are 1.5mm thick.
Using these will create a gap between the head and body.

That gap happens to fit the Preon Clip nicely, so the Tool can be a CapLamp… (note the direction of the pocket clips)

if I try the Preon clip under the head of a stock eTool, the light wont turn on. (needs a contact between the pill and end of body tube, can be a piece of paperclip wire)

Note I dont use the clip for clipped pocket carry… too much of the light sticks out above the clip. I carry the light completely inside my pocket. I just like the clip as an antiroll, and HatLamp option.

observation about body symmetry
when I want to swap the clip from bezel up to bezel down, I find I can just flip the body, instead of pulling the clip over the oring to move it to the other end.

some impressions about the eSwitch
I find the latest eSwitch requires about 800 grams of force to operate. This likely makes it less prone to turning on in pocket.

otoh, I have a Massdrop Cu Tool from a previous run, and the eSwitch only requires about 300 grams of pressure. I prefer this, so I have legoed the switches.

Choices are good

[argolite]

@jon_slider

some impressions about the eSwitch
I find the latest eSwitch requires about 800 grams of force to operate. This likely makes it less prone to turning on in pocket.

otoh, I have a Massdrop Cu Tool from a previous run, and the eSwitch only requires about 300 grams of pressure.

Good to know. I just measured my latest eSwitch at 725 gf to actuate.

[lumenzilla]

@jon_slider

yes
I got the pill out… after soaking the head in a cup of boiled water for 5 minutes.
you can see the glue remaining in the head:

Thank you!
I will try the hot water method and replace the LED with Nichia Optisolis from Clemence.

[moderator007]

@lumenzilla

I will try the hot water method and replace the LED with Nichia Optisolis from Clemence.

If you can reflow a led then any 3535 led can be reflowed on the original board.
If you dont want to try that then Clemence has you covered :+1: .

[jon_slider]

Safe arrival of another Cu Tool aaa w xp-g3

As expected, when I first inserted an eneloop it only made 1 lumen on all 3 modes.

After 1 hour with the battery in the light there are now 3 modes
I’m getting 4 lumens, 30 lumens and 130 lumens.

This switch measures about 600 grams activation pressure, I like it. It gives clear feedback when it clicks.

.

switch trivia
The first drop tool I got has (had) a stiffer switch, that triggers around 800 grams pressure, with no clear click feedback. Individual variation…

update

I just disassembled the switch and put it back together with the rubber pad correctly seated under the button. The activation pressure is now about 450 grams, with clear click feedback.

Im very happy I was successful at not screwing anything up

.

battery trivia
I get 50% higher output from one of my Eneloop, than from each of two of my eneloop pro. This tells me my eneloops are no longer working as well as they did when I got them new about 3 years ago.

I think I will order some new AAA Eneloops… have not looked around yet…

if anyone has an opinion
I request a link to the AAA Eneloop deal of the day …

.

size evolution
OldSchool AA and NewSchool AAA:

[moderator007]

A week or so ago when I went looking for eneloop’s the best deal I found was at Ikea.
The LADDA 900’s and 2450’s are supposed to be eneloop pro’s.
There a little slow to ship but if you order enough 4 packs it comes out cheaper.
.
I have had my switchs out several times and never noticed much difference but tonight I did notice that one seemed stiff.
I’ll try your method to see if I can improve the pressure and feel. I think I may even do a little filing and polishing.
Always liked the smooth look of this one. https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/44302/24

[jon_slider]

thanks for the Ikea suggestion

I decided not to pay for shipping, and ordered from China… should have them sometime next year… LOL

I chose regular Eneloop, not the Pro, because my Pro eneloops have lost half their output, while my regular Eneloop still have full output.

I dont own an analyzing charger, so not sure how the two compare in terms of capacity now, after 3 years of use. On my light meter, I do see a huge difference in lumen output, between the Pro and the Regular, and the Regular is Much better.

Anyone have a suggestion for a compact, USB powered charger, that can test both eneloop and LiIon capacity? I only need to charge one battery at a time, no need for 4 bays… smaller is cuter.

.

Trivia
I received a Ti Maratac AAA w XP-G3. It is MLH and otherwise has similar output and runtime as the drop Tool,

and they Lego:

I have requested return authorization for the Ti Maratac, because it skips modes badly. It also has some of the roughest, most abrasive knurling Ive felt yet.

The Ti Maratac threads are predictably gritty, despite my best efforts testing 3 specialty lubes:

1. Krytox 205. Its creamy white looks promising, as does its teflon content, but it is too thin to mask the gritty Ti Threads.

2. Nyogel 767a. Too thick and sticky, makes it hard to turn the head with one hand, and still feels gritty.

3. Munky Spunk. Decently thick and reasonably smooth action, but still failed to completely mask the gritty threads, even after working it in to try and wear polish the threads.

I much prefer my Copper Tools. I use Nano Oil on the O rings and threads.

[ValuseekeR]

Well, the Cree Tool made a nice Christmas gift for a family member.

Hope another Cu AAA with Nichia comes along sometime soon. Back to just the Reylight Mini for now. (My daughter claimed the first Nichia Cu Tool I bought as soon as it arrived lol.)

[Muto]

@jon_slider

thanks for the Ikea suggestion

I decided not to pay for shipping, and ordered from China… should have them sometime next year… LOL

I chose regular Eneloop, not the Pro, because my Pro eneloops have lost half their output, while my regular Eneloop still have full output.

I dont own an analyzing charger, so not sure how the two compare in terms of capacity now, after 3 years of use. On my light meter, I do see a huge difference in lumen output, between the Pro and the Regular, and the Regular is Much better.

Anyone have a suggestion for a compact, USB powered charger, that can test both eneloop and LiIon capacity? I only need to charge one battery at a time, no need for 4 bays… smaller is cuter.

.

Trivia
I received a Ti Maratac AAA w XP-G3. It is MLH and otherwise has similar output and runtime as the drop Tool,

and they Lego:

I have requested return authorization for the Ti Maratac, because it skips modes badly. It also has some of the roughest, most abrasive knurling Ive felt yet.

The Ti Maratac threads are predictably gritty, despite my best efforts testing 3 specialty lubes:

1. Krytox 205. Its creamy white looks promising, as does its teflon content, but it is too thin to mask the gritty Ti Threads.

2. Nyogel 767a. Too thick and sticky, makes it hard to turn the head with one hand, and still feels gritty.

3. Munky Spunk. Decently thick and reasonably smooth action, but still failed to completely mask the gritty threads, even after working it in to try and wear polish the threads.

I much prefer my Copper Tools. I use Nano Oil on the O rings and threads.

Can’t you just hit that Ti with some fine emory cloth to chill out the knurling?
I mean I know you use your flashlights and appreciate the patina, so why not accelerate the wear pattern a little?

Also maybe take a fine wire brush across the threads to take away some micro burrs maybe.
Just a thought.
Later,

Keith

[lumenzilla]

Last night I managed to open the pil with boiling water method. Replaced the LED with Nichia Optisolis and TIR optic from Clemence with a bit tweaking.

Sorry no picture. My phone is broken and awaiting for replacement.

[jon_slider]

@ValuseekeR

My daughter claimed the first Nichia Cu Tool I bought as soon as it arrived lol.

daddy didnt raise no fool

.

@lumenzilla

Replaced the LED with Nichia Optisolis and TIR optic from Clemence

Sweet!
congrats
what CCT?
like the Tir Idea!
glad it works on the longer head

[Cereal_killer]

@Jon_Slider WOW that 3500k e21a is great! I’ll be getting some of those for sure!

3500k should be my preferred cct but till now I’ve been let down by tint in other emitters I’ve tried, the e21a looks perfectly white in that comparison, how is it in real life?

[jon_slider]

@Cereal_killer

how is it in real life?

I really like the 3500k e21a, when my brain is white balanced to incandescent (3000k). At that white balance the 3500k does look white, as in this picture

I tried a few N219b 3500k 9080, and they shed more of a yellow cast over everthing. The e21a shows crisper reds and blues. It is my personal favorite 3500k LED, with an emphasis on High R9 CRI.

in all fairness though, there are times when my brain is whitebalanced to daylight, and then the 3500k is not my preference, because it looks warmer (oranger), than daylight.

this photo attempts to show the effect of daylight white balance, and reveals that the 3500k is a warmer white than daylight.
6000k XM-L2 on left, 3500k e21a on right (same light that looks “whiter” above)

so in my real life, I love the e21a at night, and still rely on sw45k for daytime edc, because it is “whiter”, at that time of day. In the evening sw45k can be unnecessarily cool (blue).

[cyclops]

@ValuseekeR

Well, the Cree Tool made a nice Christmas gift for a family member. :+1:

Hope another Cu AAA with Nichia comes along sometime soon. Back to just the Reylight Mini for now. (My daughter claimed the first Nichia Cu Tool I bought as soon as it arrived lol.)

I see that the Brass tool with Nichia is available for preorder now.

[Unheard]

No glue, spare C01S LED board basically fits, needed to be filed down a little on both “arms”.

[buck91]

@lumenzilla

Last night I managed to open the pil with boiling water method. Replaced the LED with Nichia Optisolis and TIR optic from Clemence with a bit tweaking.

Sorry no picture. My phone is broken and awaiting for replacement.

I did the same but just used a 4000k 95cri SST-20 I had laying around. VERY easy mod as the heat liquified the thermal epoxy under the mcpcb as well. Lost some output, naturally, compared to the xpg3 but its a very pleasant beam still. Hows the output of the Optisolis compared to the xpg3? Is it a direct swap or do you need to change the reflector/optic also?

[ValuseekeR]

@cyclops

I see that the Brass tool with Nichia is available for preorder now.

Thanks for mentioning it, may do that.

[lumenzilla]

@buck91

Hows the output of the Optisolis compared to the xpg3? Is it a direct swap or do you need to change the reflector/optic also?

The output of Nichia Optisolis was a bit lower but barely noticeable (at least to my eyes).

The optic is shorter than the stock reflector so I inserted a sanded aluminium pill (with extra thermal paste in between) under the current MCPCB to gain more height.

Drop Tool is on the right, the left was ReyLight Tool.

[Slayer1]

I just received my copper and its Cree led iso Nichia.

[jon_slider]

@Slayer1

I just received my copper

Congratulations on your nice Copper Host

maybe reach out to Lumenzilla for help w an LED swap?