For the GITD insert, I started with the green. I liked the tint of the aqua better, so I got it. It looks nice, but it’s not as bright as the green. I took some photos. And actually, the photos make the aqua appear a little brighter than it is. Green is noticeably more radiant.
Approx. 3 hours later, it’s obvious green is still better. The aqua is still visible, barely. But both relative to tritium are dimmer.
Got some O-rings and modded two of my three FW3As. The third one has the original (and greatest) switch and with the O-ring it is way too firm.
I notice that the O-ring switches are a little bouncy now: sometimes clicking four times to lock out puts it in momentary mode (five clicks) instead. Putting it in momentary mode, I can see that occasionally it bounces when I release the switch.
I’m still carrying it with the O-ring and trying to slow down and be more deliberate about locking/unlocking. Because it’s way better than the unmodified switch. But the bounciness may eventually cause me to reinstall the nubbin.
Stupid question:
Does the 219c stock version already have the 50% FET Firmware flashed from factory?
Or do I need to reflash when swapping the 219c for a 219b?
Thx
I’m pretty sure it does not have the reduced FET firmware from the factory.
I’m planning to swap 219B into some of mine and will be flashing the firmware as I go.
Hmm, it’s centered around the circle where the nubbin used to be. In addition to the bounciness what has bothered me more after more use is sometimes it clicks but doesn’t activate the light.
This is with the 3/16” ID; I might try to track down some 5/32” and try those, because I love the feel. But, it needs to turn on every time I click it.
Thanks Woke at 2.30am and couldnt sleep so I went out to the lathe. It is a bit rough and i dont have oring for the bezel. Kaidomain reflector 38mm diameter 42mm deep, I put a 1mm2 osram in it that was sitting on my table but turned angry blue on turbo so I put xpl hi in.
Got lucky and found a metal landyard ring that was nearly the perfect dimensions for this light. A few minutes with a sanding drum and dremel to open the ID ~1mm and here we are. Also bought some suspension clips off of ebay. I’ve been trying out this combination for a few days and it’s growing on me. Takes some getting used to for sure as it’s not the easiest to get the clip to catch without focusing on it. I’ll say that when wearing jeans that have stiffer edges and tighter openings, it’s much better. I’m sure I’d still prefer a genuine deep carry clip on days I’m using the light heavily but I just haven’t got one yet. For less frequent use, I would recommend it highly though. The light feels so much smaller in the pocket with this setup.
I can take the same measurement this evening of my switch activation pressure and comparing it to a stock FW3A I have still. I’m not sure how much has changed since the original batch and v1.0 design, but note that’s what my samples are.
I’m can’t for the life of me remember what light (or other thing) that the lanyard ring came from/with. I’ll try searching the web for something similar