TLF/BLF/Lumintop FW3A review (18650, 3x XP-L HI cool white)

Welp I did read what you posted, and thank you :-).

To be fair, what you said exactly was:

>Make sure to loosen head, tighten tail firmly, then tighten head firmly.

My tail was already, prior to reading this, tightened firmly. I tried to tighten it some more, and it didn’t budge. I can assure you it was very tight.

So as a newbie to this flashlight it wasn’t clear to me that I needed to do anything more with the tail. And I effectively did as instructed by attempting to tighten it. And it did not fix the problem.

Only after I added the additional step of loosening the tail before tightening (this step is clearly spelled out in the troubleshooting thread), did it work.

What would have helped me right off the bat would have been:

“Make sure to loosen head, loosen tail, tighten tail firmly, then tighten head firmly, in that order.”

Just saying this in the spirit of feedback! Please don’t get me wrong; I very much appreciate all your help, thank you!

My light was starting to not only auto ramp down, but would all of a sudden just get brighter. The problem is very erratic and random. I just removed the head, tail, and the metal tube inside the light and cleaned it thoroughly with electronic contact cleaner. I noticed before I cleaned everything that the inner tube area by the tail cap, where it has an o-ring, was sticking up a bit too far where you could see the o-ring. After the cleaning, it tucked itself under the bottom of the flashlight body like it should have. So far the light has not auto changed brightness one way or the other. I have not been using it too much since the cleaning, so right now this is pretty inconclusive, but I will report back later.

Strange, on my unit there’s no need to first loosen then retighten the tail. I wonder if your inner tube o-ring was maybe not set right and loosening the tail made it fall into place? Oh well, glad it’s working now.

It’s pretty common to need to loosen the tail before tightening it. The parts float around a bit, and sometimes it takes a few tries to get everything in the right spot.

Does anybody have a photo of where the o-rings on the inner tube are located, or just tell me? I had one break, and there is a second one near the end of it by the tailcap, but where is the other one installed? Thanks!

Just under the lip on the black metal tube. Install it and the o-ring should drop down into the main battery tube where you can’t see it.

There’s only one small white/clear o-ring (inside the light), btw. EDIT: there is a second skinny o-ring on the outside that keeps the clip from rotating.

Thanks! That is where mine is. Somebody else,I think in another thread about this light, said there was two on the tube. The o-ring on mine that broke was a clear one, and that is the one that is on my tube. Maybe it was on the tail cap threads.

Yeah, I think they changed from white to clear. Mine did have another skinny o-ring on top of the clip to keep it from rotating. I took mine off and forgot. So there are two, but only one inside the light.

I have a feeling the odd problems I am getting (auto ramp down, and sudden brightness increasing) have something to do with this tube. I still have over three weeks to decide if I am going to keep this light. So far it is a bit quirky. In the long run, I am not so sure it will be a reliable light.

Can you please tell me where this resistor r1 is located? I’m ready to take it off, I can solder wires and single diodes, but I don’t know what it is))

The best and easier thing to do, is just flash Anduril 2 onto the driver and you can disable turbo through software. I’ve done that.

2 Thanks

One of these days, I’m going to have to take apart all my FW[x]A lights and update the firmware. It’s just a pain because they have to be unsoldered and resoldered, so I haven’t done it yet.

It’d be really helpful though, since Anduril 2 has a memory timer and auto-lock timer… both of which I’d use on FW-series lights.

But instead, I’ve mostly been using lights which are easier to update.

1 Thank

I’ve updated everything to the later Anduril 2 (except an Fwaa with v2.2 driver. Not good there). I’m very pleased.

I’m so thankful for all your work!!

1 Thank

And how to do it? I’m ready)

Flashing a driver is quite complicated and requires special tools. I never got into that myself.
To find the R1 resistor you have to unsolder the led wires and take the driver out. R1 is labeled on the pcb.

Ill try to add this picture showing the pads to the left of the R1 label.

1 Thank
1 Thank

I understand, I just ordered fw3a, as soon as he comes to me, I’ll deal with it, I also ordered a board immediately from 219b https://aliexpress.ru/item/4001200006782.html?spm=a2g2w.cart.cart_split.55.424c4aa6iixSfW&sku_id=12000025772970368&_ga=2.123491083.1254203438.1678261366-1160284173.1678261366
That’s what I thought, maybe it makes no sense to solder the resistor? After all, if you use a non-high-current 18650, then the diodes on the turbo will not burn out? Previously, they were selling fw3a with 219c, was there the same driver?

It’s the same driver but different firmware.
In my opinion it would be best to flash the driver with the latest Anduril2 FW3A-219 firmware.
And while you’re at it you can add aux functionality.

Send me your FW3A, and I’ll update them and add Aux for free if you want.

Thanks, but it’s not really necessary. I’ll update them eventually, along with a bunch of other lights waiting for me to change or fix things. It just hasn’t been a priority.

1 Thank