Yes with both heat spreaders in those 5 minutes the light ran constant, the clamp meter sometimes is acting bad not reading correct or fluctuating a bit, I may have to open it and clean
I am not sure how the temperature is affected in the total light assembly
with it the temperature is definitely a lot lower as the driver gets most cooling connection to the battery tube
But the strange behavior when thermal throttling should be history
Still it seems there is a bug in the firmware when it ran without heat spreader Anduril kept going almost at 100% while the light constantly heated up far behind the set point
Just for clarification (maybe I missed something), you have pictures with the thermal pad on top of the 7135 chips and a picture with the thermal pad on the bottom of the copper plate. Do you recommend putting it in both places or is one better than the other?
Not necessary. Those two pictures are two different try. Even if you add layers you make the thermal path worse. The second and current one is where I putted the thermal pad on the copper thing and cutted it exactly the shape it has. And I used thermap paste on the side of it. Then grabbed it with tweezers to put it in place.
The heatsink plate is generally designed for usage with thermal compound paste, I would still recommend to use it this way.
Both thermal contacting methods will work well, if the installation is properly done and there will be no differences in the runtime performance or thermal effectiveness.
Good quality thermal pads are mostly more expensive than a high quality thermal compound paste.
If I have the lamp and the copper plate, I consider whether I should use a graphite cooling pad instead of the MX4 paste because of the mess when I open the lamp again, what do you think.
Graphite cooling pad should conduct better than a thermopad?.
What is the distance between the copper plate and the housing?
