Thanks for documenting and keeping the pictures up-to-date.
I really love the E03H. The beam profile is great for me. And I actually don’t mind the XP-L cool white as implemented in the E03H. A bit warmer with better CRI would be nicer, but I find I’m actually ok with it as-is.
The feel and build quality, the diffuser, the UI, and the size… I’m just so happy with it.
Since the E02/E03H are out of production, I wonder if there will be a successor.
Yes, Kaidomain has them. I wrote them last week asking whether they’re planning to sell Osconiq LEDs. :sunglasses:
And they’re listing now. Kaidomain is cool! :+1:
Unfortunately, djozz has not tested Osconiqs ( yet ), but the datasheet looks exciting.
As far as I see the Vf is exceptionally low. And no Cree rainbow. :laughing:
I will purchase a couple of them. But will take time to arrive.
Thank You in advance for the pictures!
osconiq / gw pusta /gw pusra thermal pad not neutral
If used within the specifications ( <3A ), you do not neccessarily need a DTP board (although DTP always helps a bit), so the non-neutral thermal pad is not a disaster, just retrieve your old-school alu non-DTP boards from the junk-box.
In my next KD order I will add 2 of these and do a test. It can take a while though…
Yes, that sucks.
Should be verified if possible to install in E02/E03. Maybe not.
For general cases Aluramic boards are available from Led4Power. These also suitable for overdriving.
Use some of those Led4power alu boards.
They’re almost as good as DTP.
Not sure what he still has in stock though, but i assume he has something useful.
I wrote a letter to them but no reaction. :cry:
Maybe the ordering function still works but first I wanted to know whether these ceramic plates can be reshaped by chipping ( like copper DTPs ) or not?
Because it is required for the lamp I want to mod.
The led shelf is anodized anyway, so I think I can use a normal DTP and it is not a problem if the base not on ground potential.
Bought mine from the clearance sale and just played with it today. Anyone experience the light flickering when turned on at moonlight mode? Usually happens when I leave it for a few minutes then turn it on again, no definite time just leave it and turn it on again. Cleaned the contacts and tightened what I can. Only experienced in moonlight mode. It just might be my battery though, will try some fresh ones tomorrow. Sharing to hear some thoughts as well. If it matters, it’s the XPG3 emitter.
My Nichia one does that, it’s only on level 21/21 in engineering mode though. If I set moonlight to any others (I use 20) its fine.
Mine has this too, and not only in the highest moon mode, but i think the brighter half of the moon levels start up with a bit of a flash.
Otherwise no flickering, only that small flash when turning it on.
The driver does this.
Skilhunt H03 (for example) does this too when going from OFF to the brighter of the 2 settings for the lowest mode.
at what battery voltage do you get flickering?
that may be a useful reminder to recharge… a form of Low Voltage warning… 
Just received a Red E02 w 219c
using an eneloop, that is down to 1.24 volts atm
I just checked all 21 modes by eye, and by camera
zero visible flicker, zero photographable flicker, Im impressed
zero dots when waving to test for PWM… all good!
set to the minimum
No flickering on my E03H on any mode. I have moonlight set to 20/21 I think.
Thanks for sharing. Also managed to take my e03H apart despite having tried numerous times in the last year or so. Just needed the right tool to remove the retaining ring which was really really tight compared to my e02. My e02 from clearance now has some 219b sw45k. Still can’t decide what to put in the e03 though.
nice!
what was your strategy to reflow without issues from the nearby components?
To remove I just clipped on the board with the led facing up and used a lighter to heat the copper slab and a tweezer ready to take out the led as soon as it’s possible. For reflowing, still used the same heating method but being extra careful not to overheat and/or knock anything out of place. Used the same method with a nitecore HC60 and YLP Panda 3R and so far I haven’t fucked up yet.
Sweet!
seems heating the copper is the secret
thank you
would probably work on a hotplate too…
notice I have not said anything about using hot air from above the LED (…. dont mention it) 
I’ll check when I get home. Haven’t played with my engineering mode yet as well so I’ll check on that too.
EDIT: My battery is at 1.2 volts so I don’t know if it’s related to that. Changed the engineering mode to a lower level. IIRC it was at 20/21 though out of the box. I was distracted by how low it could get I lost count. Don’t experience flickering so far.
I wouldn’t do it with a hot plate.
I think it’s better / safer to heat up the copper chunk from the back with a soldering iron (that’s how i did it too).
With a hot plate all the air above the plate will be hot and you could risk desoldering other parts.
Sorry, maybe not the best place for my question.
A new E02 w/ Nichia only works when I hold the button (switch on after 1 sec or so). I checked w/ another batteries, and it's not in lockout, tried on another E02 the lockout doesn't have momentary mode. Sent mail to Manker too, but I think the answer will be after Chinese New Year.
Tried to tear apart, but can't loosen the head from the body (by hand w/ some rubber to increase friction). I there any method to reset (like in Anduril)?
sorry to hear
mine works both ways
from off
a short single click gives the moonlight mode
also from off
holding the button gives last mode memory (low or medium)
Im not aware of any reset feature.
question:
is it possible you cant tell the light is on, from single click, because it goes to such a low mode that you cant see it during the day? (try a single click from off in a dark room… now can you see the LED is on?)