Andúril 2 coming to Sofirn - The general Sofirn development thread

I have not actually changed an MCU, but it doesnt look hard. I doubt you can unsolder it. I would use hot air or just cut the legs. Then you can solder the new one on. It is a simple remove and replace.

To remove the original and keep it intact with just a solder iron seems tricky. Maybe if you wick all the old solder out and then heat one leg at a time while lifting it up you can get it removed.

I remove them with a soldering iron and small flat screwdriver. While lightly prying up with the screwdriver, run the iron up and down the legs on one side until the lift up. Then grasp the MCU with tweezers and then run the iron on the other side to lift it up completely. It’s not too bad.

I like this too!

I uploaded emitters on website, https://sofirnlight.com/collections/parts-accessories/products/emitters

sorry that there are no pictures yet, but you know what you are buying.

:sunglasses: , and good prices too :slight_smile:

Edit: just one 5000K 3V XHP50.2 in stock, I was planning on 4 :innocent:

Hi Barry,

Thank you verry much for offering such emitters!

But are you shure these XHP50.2 are real 5000K emitters?
Do you have an order code or exact binning of these emitters?

I have bought some of them from cutter.au binned in 3B color tint and they are warmer and less green than on my Astrolux EC01 5000K, which is produced in your factory.

Look here for the emitters from cutter.au please: XHP50B-00-0000-0A00J4051 XHP50 IN 3 VOLT - Cutter Electronics
I have ordered these: XHP50B-00-0000-0A00J4051

My browsers and router do not like your new website-

Warning: Potential Security Risk Ahead Firefox detected a potential security threat and did not continue to sofirnlight.com. If you visit this site, attackers could try to steal information like your passwords, emails, or credit card details. What can you do about it? The issue is most likely with the website, and there is nothing you can do to resolve it. If you are on a corporate network or using anti-virus software, you can reach out to the support teams for assistance. You can also notify the website’s administrator about the problem. Learn more… Websites prove their identity via certificates. Firefox does not trust this site because it uses a certificate that is not valid for sofirnlight.com. Error code: SEC_ERROR_UNKNOWN_ISSUER View Certificate

You should update your system. sofirnlight.com uses a Let’s Encrypt certificate that is widely used today.

Yeah! And 4000K-5000K as well please.

Everything with charging for me.

They announced the Anduril Q8 version yesterday: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/52894/1222

https://sofirnlight.com/products/blf-q8-anduril-led-flashlight

Appears to be: No USB charging, same LED's I guess, new battery level indicator on side switch.

Yeap. Saw it the other day and had to do a double take. Pretty cool. Hope they adjusted the thermal settings for the q8. Wish they added built in charging though.

I'll be interested if it shows up on their Amazon store.

What thermal improvements are you looking for? I’ve haven’t identified such a need.

I’ve read that there are some flashlights that use versions of Andruil made for other flashlights, so they may end up having an early drop off from turbo without the light getting warm? I guess you could go in and reconfigure it afterwards. Just wondering how much they tested with the settings specifically for the Q8.

TK already had special config files for the Q8 with the proper thermal settings. Of course that doesn't mean Sofirn actually used it, but hoping Barry got the firmware from TK directly for the Q8, so would be guaranteed.

I see what you mean. You hope they updated Anduril for the Q8.

I originally thought you were looking for a thermal improvement from Narsil.

Yea, best I can tell, Sofirn has previously sold only 2 Anduril lights: The SP36 and LT1. Most likely 1 of 2 possibilities:

  • they used the SP36 firmware on the Q8 as-is
  • or they got the latest Anduril build from TK specifically for the Q8

Her thermal regulation algorithms are tweaked according to how the host can handle the heat - basically will it react faster or slower. The FW3A needs fast response because there's not much thermal mass considering the amps/LED's, while the Q8 has decent amount of mass for it's amps/LEDs.

I don’t know what code Sofirn used on the new Q8.

However, I’ve been rewriting all the thermal code (and voltage and ADC) over the past couple months, because some changes I made in November made the thermal response get a bit weird. Basically, I did a pretty large rewrite to fix some bugs which had been hanging around a long time, and the rewrite messed up the thermal behavior on some lights. So I rewrote that too.

I’ve finally got it at a point where it pretty much “just works” on every light I’ve tried it on, whether that’s a tiny hot rod or a large and more moderately-driven light… whether it’s 1, 2, or 3 power channels… and whether it’s regulated or direct-drive or a hybrid.

Anyway, here are the test results for a BLF Q8:


It may look odd, but the curve is pretty close to ideal for this type of light. It could be a little smoother, but the jagged parts aren’t actually visible during use. Each adjustment is pretty slow and gradual, and only looks steep due to the amount of time which passed during measurement.

The output gets higher as the voltage drops because of how linear drivers work. When the input voltage is high (full battery), there’s a big difference between that and the output voltage, so the difference is burned off as heat. But when the two voltages are close together (low battery), there’s less heat and it can instead produce more light. So it gets brighter as the battery drops, because it’s attempting to maintain a constant temperature.

During the entire graph, output sags over time because it’s running direct-drive, and if it was water-cooled it would produce a curve identical to the battery’s discharge curve. Basically, it keeps sagging more and more quickly as the charge drops. The algorithm then fights against that to keep output and temperature from falling too much.

Then near the end it reaches its highest level and the direct-drive decay curve takes over until low-voltage protection kicks in.

The code isn’t published yet, but that should be resolved very soon because I’m nearly done running tests.

Nice! Eagerly awaiting the hex files so can try flashing on my Q8…