FW3A mod thread. Post yours!

I have one of Andreas’s brass clips:

Now, I can see by clicking the right button and then “View image”.
Before, in any way.
Thanks!

Cool. I wasn’t sure because I don’t own any armytek lights. Looks low profile just like you said :+1:

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This looks awesome. Though I wonder if he’s created weak points in the clip with all those trits? And does the glue flex along with the clip? To me it doesn’t look structurally sound. It does look good though :sushi:

i doubt his intention was to create a work light ;)

M4D M4X is right it’s more art than anything else :wink:

That clip looks great! Thanks for sharing, Martin. :+1: Not so sure about so many trit slots but I like the concept. Does Andreas sell those clips through a venue here?

I get that people have shelf queens but IMO the light still needs to be usable and not fragile. Of course, I don’t know how fragile that clip is. Hence I asked.

Has the banggod lanyard ring been ruled out for some reason?

The armytek one is just a low profile option

I got mine from Barry (Sofirn). They should be the same ones used in the SP36 Anduril and SP10S. I’ve checked a few now and the majority of them can’t handle many amps. Convoy S2+ (8x7135) for example turns blue on the highest mode. I’ve checked and rechecked the reflows. Ended up reflowing XPL-HIs and Nichia 219Cs and not had any problems. So all signs point towards suspect emitters atm.

I haven’t kept up so forgive me if this has been done already.
The button was just too sensitive for me so I traded mine shortly after receiving, was recently gifted another and wanted to make it work for me.
I removed the nipple from the center of the rubber disc and replaced it with an o-ring with an I.D. slightly bigger than the O.D. of the nipple.
This isn’t a flashlight-style o-ring but one you’d get out of one of those kits you can buy at harbor freight.
The action is just stiff enough that I don’t turn it on when putting it back in my pocket.
O-ring seems to stay in place from friction so far. It fits into the dished area around the nipple mounting point.
Instead of the nipple pushing in the very center of the membrane switch, the o-ring pushes further out on the dome.
Works great for now, will update post if there are any issues.

/\ Cool — glad to hear you were able to work out the o-ring DIY with success, bansuri!
I’m still using mine with 5/32 and it works great. Must keep tailcap very tight, though. If it loosens just a little, light will cut off above certain brightness level. This looseness can happen if you lockout, which I still do when I’m not using the light for a while. It’s habit. But I’m guessing it won’t do anything regarding parasitic drain… and in any case, drain is probably so very slight, pretty much inconsequential. I know… OCD! :zipper_mouth_face:

Why is that? Is the bezel used as the heat-sink for the LEDs? I thought the heat-sink would be attached to the head, below the bezel. Or is it just extra metal that is needed to suck up some additional heat that the rest of the body can’t do?

I think that recommendation is based on the fact that fw3a doesn’t have the mcpcb screwed down and relies on the clamping force from the optic and bezel for reliable thermal interface.

Ah, okay, that makes sense. Thanks.

What’s the inner diameter on those Armytek rings? Is enlarging the diameter the mod that’s needed?

I don’t have the exact measurements, but if I remember correctly, the ID was 0.9mm smaller that the largest part of the body tube. Took about 10 minutes carefully grinding the ring to get it sized perfectly.I used a Dremel with a sanding drum

Anyone put Nichia 219B into it? Not too much current on turbo?
Mike

219Bs need a low drain cell which drops a lot of voltage when FET switching

That’s not good. I have to rethink that.
Mike