No. I didn’t used the hotair. In a separate thread I wrote that it stopped working in the middle of soldering. The heater burned down. I had to use an electric stove and a solid aluminum heat sink so as not to put the mcpcb directly on the heating element.
In addition, I had to reflow several times, because 219b always move to the side. It is a miracle that leds survived it.
I don’t know if this is normal. I always have a problem with these leds.
LED centers itself. But when I tap the LED to get rid of excess tin then it shifts to the side. When I try to move it to the center it runs to the other edge.
I suspect that the reason is a smaller anode and cathode pad on Nichia LEDs. I don’t have such a problem with other LEDs.
Hmm that’s strange. I’ve never had this issue with centering. I normally use the blunt end of a toothpick and gently tap the center of the dome to remove excess solder.
Not a huge difference but the correct diagram for my emitters is below:
UPDATE: Stock levels for sw35 and sw45k are starting to run low. Don’t know when or if I can restock these again once they’re out so if you need some, hit me up before it’s gone.
The sw40 I offer doesn’t have a violet tint. If you’re seeing violet, it’s most likely due to the coating on the glass lens.
Personally I don’t think the lower output is significant. Most of the time, I use my lights for close to medium range work and don’t require a huge wall of light or throw so lumens is less important and CRI is more desirable for me. Depending on your usage, that might vary.