But why is nobody considering a (reverse) clicky Omten 1288 in the side?
Mounted on the charging PCB or sandwiched between the driver and charging PCB.
Then you wonāt have to switch the tail switch on to charge it anymore (resulting in a turned on light when the charger is off, which kind of sucks).
Maybe something to consider.
I put a 4000K one in my Zanflare F1 and it really brought the F1 to life. :+1:
The low Vf of the Luxeon V makes the double click turbo of the F1 work throughout most of the battery charge, unlike with the XP-L it used to have.
The F1 has a SMO reflector, a fairly deep one, and it works great, and not a lot of tint shift.
Yes, the F1 is a bit large for a single 18650 light, but itās a comfortable size to hold in your hand.
The only pity of the F1 is that the size could have fit a 21700.
You canāt drill out the battery tube though, because where the O-rings are the outer diameter is only 21mm.
But a 21700 would have justified the size of the F1.
BUT, as i mentioned earlier, they could have put an Omten 1288 in the side instead of the e-switch.
Plenty of room there.
But i donāt know of any decent light that comes with a reverse clicky side switch.
But i know it works just fine, because my last yearās failed scratch build had one and i modded 2 side e-switch lights into side reverse clicky lights.
Ahā¦ :person_facepalming: :person_facepalming: :person_facepalming:
But itās dramatically different than whatās discussed hereā¦
I know that light is out for a while, but i didnāt expect this to be that.
This driver has a FET, but you can always program a mode group which has on highest mode only full AMC regulated level!
Then Turbo is only available through long press from lowest mode
It combines both regulated and DD into one driver, people need to differ between DD+1 and DD+n+1 driver designs
True.
But it also depends on how much n is.
ā¦and i still think DD is not such a good idea, although it does solve some thermal issues (if the FET is fast enough).
Thot it was another light, my bad. :person_facepalming:
I even have one for sale now.
You could always remove R4 to shut down the FET if you donāt want it
it is FET+5+1
so 2.1A, light can easily run without getting to the thermal throttle if its set to like 60Ā°C
Hmmm way too tacticool for me, Iāll come back when you decide to do something that really is tactical, rather than gadget ridden.
Iād suggest something similar to the Lumintop ED20-T as an excellent starting point for true tactical.
I think you and many others do not understand the advantages of DD FET drivers. It must be something about them being simple and cheap so they canāt be good. The beauty of the direct drive (PWMed to create lower modes) is that by chance of physics many leds when run at high output run at a voltage that is close to the same voltage that a li-ion produces under load. Fine-tune that by adding or lowering the resistance in the system and you have a fairly efficient super-simple circuit that is cheap and extremely robust.
You can keep going on about the disadvantages of direct drive, like that it has no constant output (btw incans never had that, it is a matter of taste, not practicality, if you like it or not) and that efficiency is bad (if measured compared to other types the difference is not impressive), but solving those disadvantages comes at a huge price: bigger pricier drivers with more components that fail earlier, can produce whine, and can never achieve the power levels for the led that a simple direct drive situation can.
In short, I never see flashlights that are nicely regulated and at the same time run at the same power level as a direct drive flashlight. For real output power I only trust direct drive, only for lower level flashlights I trust regulated circuits.
No, thatās not the point at all.
Simple is good, but current regulation is better.
It depends on the LED Vf.
If itās low, why not use a 3, 4, 5 or 6 Ampere FET CC driver?
With an XP-L or other high Vf LED thereās no need for current limiting.
Yup, I could tell you were discussing an alternate version, so I didnāt quote you. The others seemed to be just blindly posting in a group buy thread.
May I put my input on these tactical lights?
I love the form factor shown. It really reminds me of Fenix PD35 and Zanflare F1 combined.
But my thoughts of tactical light really comes in 2 versions.
I like the surefire G2x Pro interface. Always on low but double tap to go high. I even got a Solarforce L2M with Nanjg 105C programmed to be the same. No memory always on low with high on double tap.
I also love the interface of Olight M18 Maverick for a dual switch operation.
Single tailcap click is a customizable brightness mode via side switch with memory that will never hit turbo. (The only place to select brightness here)
Double tap to click to achieve turbo (hitting side switch bounce back to common modes)
Triple tap to click to access strobe. (turn off to reset back to 1)
And yes get me that sweet sweet DD Fet but only on turbo. Iām even okay with timer stepdown like the BLF A6 but only on turbo.
Any word if there will ever be a 21700 tube for this light? The tube diameter is already larger than some 21700 lights.
I'm Interested for 2
OK, I'm a civvie but if I were a cop I think I would want:
Maybe a dual tailcap switch like Fenix does.. main switch would power light on on high every time. KIS... forward clicky with high, medium, low, period. High would be the max that the LED would be capable of without overheating and making it impractical to use for any length of time. No burn-up-your-pocket turbo. Momentary capability of course.
Second tail switch would give instant strobe, period. Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think law enforcement is gonna want SOS and all that crap. No side switch you'd have to fumble for.
Thick AR lens like Surefire uses. SS bezel for dropping on head. Tough enough that you could run over it with a truck or smash a car window. Aggressive heatsinking. Screw on grip ring so you decide whether you want it or not. Ditch the USB charging. Dual removable belt clip. Completely waterproof. Bezel-down quick draw holster included. Matte finish=better grip and looks.
Cost more but if I was in a precarious situation I want something that's up to the job. I wouldn't want tacticool, I'd want simplicity. It's a tool, not a toy. Has to stand out from the crowd of lights already being made because if it doesn't one is just gonna buy one that is already on the market.
Comments? Texas shooter, whaddaya think?
It sounds well thought out. If youāre making it heavy enough to be run over that extra mass will make high run that much longer. Iāve got a 192 gram flashlight with an XHP-50.2 that will run 1300 lumens and can be held after 30 minutes. I personally carry bezel up in a full length holster. I do this as car seats, seat belts and chairs with arm rest like to pull gear off the belt. However many overs carry bezel down in speed holsters.
I will state again that I carry two lights and consider that there are two types. First is that āTactical lightā with on/off only tail switch at about 1200 lumens. Mine is the Pflexpro. Second is a duty light, a little bit larger and heavier. It has a few modes and could bust a brick.
Looking at the link you provided, that is not at all what I would wantā¦
Color me disappointed.
-dmm
Who are you talking to? You didnāt quote anyone
Interested in 1.