What did you mod today?

Thanks :slight_smile: . Now I know why I ordered some 219B :smiley: .

Mine was worse. Congrats!

TrustFire Mini-08 Electronic Tail Switch.

An amazing mod CRX!

Modded my new Tool AA V2.0 Ti:

  • Reflowed a Luxeon V2 5000K
  • Added a bleeder resistor (stock tailcap works ok without one, but not my custom tailcap - it needs a dependable current path). Used a 0603 footprint 750 Ohm resistor stacked across the main capacitor (see the yellow circle in the picture).
  • Swapped the black tailcap for a very light green GITD one (link). The only problem with these is that they don’t have a “nub” inside, so you really need to press in order to activate the switch. To address this, I put a dab of clear silicone caulk in it and let it cure. Works great now. This lets a TON more light through than the stock black tailcap.
  • Stripped the stock illuminated switch board, which is a similar set up to the Convoy add-on illuminated tailcap that utilizes a clear plastic washer to let the light get to the tailcap (albeit, somewhat inefficiently).
  • Installed a battery-monitoring tailcap. It has 4 LEDs that extinguish one by one as the battery drains down.
  • Attempted to strip the gold clip, but failed. After a 30 minute bath in a strong lye solution, the coating didn’t budge at all. It probably is real gold plating. It’ll stay for now. I’ll probably either just remove the clip or grab a stainless one from another light.

Nice upgrade gchart. Is it 10440 or 14500?

Oops, it’s AA / 14500. I just updated the post.

Nice and skillful mod, gchart. :sunglasses:

That battery-monitoring tailcap is incredibly genious. :open_mouth: I will try to build one. I need this on my flashlights. :partying_face:

That battery tailcap, kinda want.

The HM1160 were cheap enough that I ended up buying 40 just to even out the shipping fees :person_facepalming:

So… I could probably whip some up for folks if you know how to install them (and a bleeder resistor).

My friend use torch to de-color the clip, works well.

Btw that’s a nice mod of yours :+1:

Y’all probably know that the X6 is one of my favorite lights, right? Like, I have some 19 of these and more than 12 different emitters in use. So today I put the 90.2 in an X6, serial number 62 in the SS/Cu Limited Edition light. Really nice look, really nice power!

Using a Samsung 25S 18650 it pulls 25.5A at the tail for 5190 lumens at start (too hot to hold in 20 seconds), makes 100.6Kcd for 651.25M throw. Me Like! :smiley:

SBT90.2 in such a small size sounds fun! Did you put it in the copper version?

It had to be done! :+1:

Beasty. :slight_smile:

Pics please!!!

Did you use stock driver?

I didn’t take many pics, but this is what I did take…

The Stainless and Copper X6 from the Limited Edition run…

The SBT-90.2 in all it’s glory sitting in the 35mm modified reflector of the X6…

They obviously used 100% copper and it is work/age hardened, it didn’t cut worth a darn but I opened the emitter shelf area to accept a Noctigon 25mm MT board…

I reflowed the MCPCB into the copper head so the rough surface simply doesn’t matter.

I had to open the reflector significantly and reduce it’s depth by filing it down some, it has a wider hot spot than is necessary but it had to be filed down this far to get the bezel to fit decently. Optimally the emitter shelf should have been cut down a bit further but it’s not worth revisiting.

A test shot in our game room…

And so now I have yet another unique X6. :smiley:

Oh, I didn’t use the stock driver as they didn’t actually comply and use quality components, so I built a new driver and used the high power mod with an R100 between the diode and C1. :wink: 18ga Teflon leads to the emitter, 18ga Turnigy spring bypasses in the Blue Sword springs.

Thx!

Building new driver is a no go for me, damn. All other items are waiting for mod.

The factory driver will probably do ok, it will most likely need the R100/Diode/C1 mod though in order to be able to really do the high current. Without it modes 6 and 7 probably won’t function, it’ll glitch back to mode 1.

I have had them function fine in a triple, so it may be well worth finding out. But if it glitches back to 1 then you know where the problem is…. :wink:

Can you direct me to some info about it?
if you already posted somewhere...