What did you mod today?

Beasty. :slight_smile:

Pics please!!!

Did you use stock driver?

I didn’t take many pics, but this is what I did take…

The Stainless and Copper X6 from the Limited Edition run…

The SBT-90.2 in all it’s glory sitting in the 35mm modified reflector of the X6…

They obviously used 100% copper and it is work/age hardened, it didn’t cut worth a darn but I opened the emitter shelf area to accept a Noctigon 25mm MT board…

I reflowed the MCPCB into the copper head so the rough surface simply doesn’t matter.

I had to open the reflector significantly and reduce it’s depth by filing it down some, it has a wider hot spot than is necessary but it had to be filed down this far to get the bezel to fit decently. Optimally the emitter shelf should have been cut down a bit further but it’s not worth revisiting.

A test shot in our game room…

And so now I have yet another unique X6. :smiley:

Oh, I didn’t use the stock driver as they didn’t actually comply and use quality components, so I built a new driver and used the high power mod with an R100 between the diode and C1. :wink: 18ga Teflon leads to the emitter, 18ga Turnigy spring bypasses in the Blue Sword springs.

Thx!

Building new driver is a no go for me, damn. All other items are waiting for mod.

The factory driver will probably do ok, it will most likely need the R100/Diode/C1 mod though in order to be able to really do the high current. Without it modes 6 and 7 probably won’t function, it’ll glitch back to mode 1.

I have had them function fine in a triple, so it may be well worth finding out. But if it glitches back to 1 then you know where the problem is…. :wink:

Can you direct me to some info about it?
if you already posted somewhere...

djozz posted about it HERE

I don’t usually try to lean the components against each other like he shows there, especially in a light like the X6 where there’s plenty of room in the driver bay. I simply stand the components straight up and bridge them with solder. :wink:

Edit: To simplify, stand the C1 on the outer pad, stand an R100 resistor on the outer pad intended for the diode, stand the diode (in proper orientation, in my case this had it pointing down onto the pad) on the inside pad intended for D1. Then bridge the tops of the three components.

Edit II: For simplicity and clarification, here’s the pic from djozz…

Edit III: The diode needs to be placed in the right direction or the driver will not function. The markings are very small and difficult to read, usually the 1 where it says 41 is in the direction of the MCU, or my Diodes have a small line on the proper end. And yes, as many of these as I have built, I got it wrong yesterday and had to take the driver out of the light and reverse the position of D1. It is what it is…

Much apreciated DB!

Cheers!

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Would that classify as a finger cannon ?

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That’s really impressive! Adding an LED battery level indicator in tail cap is so cool. Is it always on, or activates momentarily when light is turned on, the way Skilhunt does on the H03RC?

Thanks! It’s on whenever the flashlight is off.

Not today, but I replaced the leds for luxeon v2 4000k and added an orange turboglow. It matches the button color.
The photo shows an exposed turboglow after a few seconds on high…

And I did this:

CRX CuTi HachiRingu Osram KW CSLPM1.TG 5400K - Convay·MK - 18350 - Rv Clicky Tail Sw - 1080lm.

Skilhunt H03 ended up warm white and high cri amid a bout of insomnia. :weary:

I’m in aww. So many questions. 5400k? Where did you source that cct?

Kaidomain.

Hurray! I’ve finally built a firmware testing light where I can flash firmware for my drivers with a USB cable. I needed a small light to carry, USB port, usable on a bike, dual switch and lighted E-switch. The S42 fits all that except dual switch but fortunately the S41 tailswitch works fine. I’ve had a previous attempt at making a driver for this light but screwed up the USB port part of the driver. Now I got it (almost) right. Had to file down some internals in the host to fit the wires without squishing them.

Custom driver with holes for the original driver “poles”:

Driver assembled with a custom slave board with micro USB connector and charger chip (MCP73831). Really finicky to put together because the wires I used where too fat:

The flashing kit. The photo was taken while I flashed a light by USB cable for the first time ever :slight_smile:

So here it is, my dual switch EDC firmware tester. The first light I’ve built in ages. I burned up the red LED on the switch but that doesn’t matter because I made a mistake in the driver design and only have one channel for a switch LED. At least the green one is working :slight_smile:

The only thing I don’t like about this light is the beam profile. I’m in no way a beam snob but this thing is horrendous! :confounded: I know carclo quad optics don’t fit, is there any other option that does?

That’s really cool MikeC! That takes exposed pads to the next level.

I’ve always wondered why we haven’t implemented something like this. Nextorch had a GUI-USB interface to customize the UI back in 2010-2011.