Driver giveaway: Constant current 17mm drivers, winners (finally) announced, post #2.

I designed a XML MCPCB for my high side regulating lights with no LED- pad, just a fat GND pad. This way I only need a single wire to the LED. I put a wire via for LED- just in case. I haven’t gotten around to testing them yet, I haven’t built a new light in ages, only developing.

I’ve been away for a few weeks of climbing with my girlfriend. It had been many late nights with the development of these drivers so I didn’t bring any development tools with me. I did bring a light for bug testing but I never got around to it, I needed a break.


It was nice with a break but I’m back and development is back up to speed.

:o I guess you’re designing a driver so powerful that will be able to climb these walls :smiling_imp:

Good to see you’re well ! Having a break for boring stuff is good :wink:

I’m still scared seeing all those rocks above :o

The wall on that first pic is a pretty crazy, some of those stalactites where big enough to squeeze your body in behind them :slight_smile:

Way cool! There are vias because the board itself isnot DTP, right?

Yeah, I put all those small vias in there to help with the heat and resistance from LED- to the host. I’m not sure how effective they are but I figured it can’t hurt. I got them made with OSH Park’s 2 oz copper option. I have to put them to the test one of these days…

Oshpark? So it’s actually a FRP PCB?
Have you considered MCPCB?
I have not tried it yet but small orders from AllPCB start from $16 shipped for a non-DTP alu MCPCB. Not as cheap as OSHPark but not particularly expensive either and may work better. :slight_smile:

Thanks for the link, I didn’t know about them… But to be honest I don’t really know what all those options mean. FR-4? CEM-1? Guangzhou or Goldenmax? :question:
I went with OSH Park because I know how well they work and was thinking that if people can build +10 amp FET drivers with PCBs from them, then a 5 amp XM-L2 should be no issue at all with 2 oz option… It’s more of an experiment really, my plan is to do a test of mine vs copper MCPCB on identical heatsinks and measure the heatsink temps after a while. Hopefully I’ll get around to it someday…

Hurray, I’ve built another light after all this time… I made a custom Fat-3 for a S42 and finally I have light for firmware testing where I can flash with a USB cable:

I think it’s a wrong thread for what I want to write. But since you Mike asked for UI suggestions and there were quite a few already I decided to go here.

Some time ago I got an YLP Falcon. It got an unknown-to-me kind of switch that acted mostly like a clicky but it actually had a momentary action as well.

I don’t really know how is such switch called but it raised my interest in alternative switch kinds. And yesterday I found something similar to YLP but without clicks - a double action momentary switch.

It acts like a regular e-switch but has 3 states: closed, lightly pressed, strongly pressed.
I find it interesting because it should enable richer UI while cutting those daunting multi-clicks to something shorter. And it is much easier to implement with the existing hosts than multiple switches.

Possibilities?
Some quick examples:

  • weak push ramps down, strong ramps up
  • press weakly from off to start with the default mode, press strongly for turbo
  • from off, press lightly and hold to ramp from moon, press strongly and hold to ramp down from Turbo

Thoughts?

Are there any other interesting switch kinds available?

I have tested dual action switches. The issue with the ones I tested was that they where so sensitive to heat that after soldering they where no longer dual action. I tried a few different brands. At least one other user experienced the same (scroll to bottom): Looking for a dual action switch

I’ll take it up again if someone finds a model that isn’t so sensitive to heat. I’ve given up buying randomly for testing as all of mine failed.

Good to know. I checked a few datasheets to see whether manufacturers give any specific soldering advice. Of those checked only ALPS did and soldering conditions were the same for all tact switches. 260C for 3 seconds.

Though low temperature solder seems like a reasonable workaround. :wink:

You’re welcome to try! Let me know how it goes. You make the switch work, I’ll make the UI work :smiley:

For me UI is way easier than PCB though I do intend to do at least some tests once my Mouser purchase list reaches the free shipping threshold. :wink:

If you get them dual action switches working fine after soldering, can you update me on the model and soldering method?

I never have issues with filling up Mouser carts for free shipping, too many projects ongoing :blush: This is the latest:

A general update on giveaway drivers: I’ve reached the point where I think the firmware is fine for giveaway. Far from all the functionality is implemented but I don’t really expect most features to be useful for anyone other than myself anyway. The main functionality is working and most of the quirks have been addressed.

I’m heading for more work related trips next week, and if the world doesn’t freak out about the virus and shut down all borders while I’m gone, I’ll get them in the mail when I get back.

Better take some “masks incorporated” “into the light” with you :wink:

BTW, I found out that the OTR i3 w/ Crescendo was working after all. The led got damaged when using 2 cells, the driver didn’t :wink:

Your driver I will probably use it with a Osram LED on a light I will probably re-mod again :smiley:

I surely will. TBH I don’t expect much troubles with my SnBi solder paste.

Mouser has free shipping on some orders? I’m not sure if I’ve ever seen that. I wonder if it’s a European / international thing?


They send with Fedex that take care of customs clearance too, so I don’t have to pay any additional import fees.