Nichia E17A/E21A Skilhunt H04RC Group Buy

Vary depends on the LED CCT. For 3500K its 225lm. 6500K would be about 250lm

[Clemence]

I think we need to keep in mind that this would not be just an standard 90 CRI headlamp. The LED’s provided for this Group Buy are 9080 LED’s, with a very high R9 colour rendering.

From my experience, your pupils will dilate to adjust to the light provided by a headlamp/flashlight. A small compromise in brightness can easily be adjusted for with your eyes and brain, but not so for colours. Having the super high 9080 LED’s bring out colours that you would otherwise not see as well with a lower CRI option, regardless of intensity or lumen output.

No it does not, spectral errors are not solved by calibration, please read my luxmeter threads for an explanation.

True! I use 4 different calibrated lights from Maukka: 6600K R7O, 5000K R9050, 6500K R9585, and 2700 R9580. They all have different calibration values. I use value closer to the light tested

[Clemence]

I understand the spectral errors but misunderstood your previous post.

UT383 is the only cheap meter that you tested which doesn’t significantly overread the blue peak of cool low-CRI lights.
It loses at the far red. And the sensitivity peak is shifted. I don’t claim it’s great but to me it looks significantly better than anything up to several times its price.

@Clemence: that is a practical workaround to compensate for spectral errors, while your Tasi meter already is relatively good.

How about getting back on topic: the Nichia E17A/E21A Skilhunt H04RC Group Buy ?

Hi Clemence do we need to pay first before we received a confirmation of order.....

Thank you

Just put your comment on the Gsheet and proceed with payment.

Thanks,
Clemence

As an owner of so many Virence modded Tiara Pros with the same emitter, even the 200+ lumen mode is VERY bright. It’s much brighter than I imagine at that lumen level and I’m a fan of lumen monsters. You can see everything very clearly. Probably the ultra HI cri helps. Most of the time I use the sub 10 lumen modes as that is already real bright at night when my eyes are adjusted and even at that lumen level you can make out all the details and colors. For anyone who is hesitating to buy this because of the low lumen rating, trust me you will not be disappointed and you will be using it everyday, likely on the very low levels.

Very professional and informative measurements SKV89 :+1:

Nice warm and rosy. Do you know whether a 2x2000K + 2x3000K mix will be even more rosy?

And do you have measured a 2x2000K + 2x4000K mix?

I’m interested in this group buy, just checking that the buy occurs after 200 orders? Only asking because there are currently 100 rows in the google doc.

If we can hit 200pcs then we can request Skilhunt to make us custom mode/output (no timed step down). Otherwise, we will order any quantity but, with normal mode/output like OEM.

[Clemence]

No timed step down and ramping the modes up on hold from off instead of that annoying AF electronic lockout would be nice…

Thank you for answering; I ended up playing with my ZL to see how bright 200-ish lumens is and yeah it does seem pretty bright to be honest. I did just buy a “normal” Skilhunt but if this reaches 200+ units for the custom mode/UI I’ll join in.

Thank you for answering my new person questions.

I can not see the pictures either. What do I need to do to see them or can they be reposted?

it’s a bizarre file format. (edit : .heic, new Apple thing apparently)

rehosted in PNG on imgur : Imgur: The magic of the Internet

Thanks thefreeman!

This would make it better. The ability to just hold the button from off to get to the desired brightness is my most used feature in Anduril or Narsil. I always end up locking the H04 or my rofis r1 and r2 because of this. Make lockout 4 clicks or something if it’s possible.

is there any white wall beam shots of the E21A 5000k 9080 and E21A 5700k 9080 please

There are comparison shots in this thread