It is indeed an excellent headlamp, both lighter and more compact than the Wizard, with fantastic UI… BUT!
The XHP50 high CRI LED in the H600Fc is noticeably green in tint compared to the Nichia 144AM and other Nichia LED’s that are on the BBL line.
As the primary purpose of a flashlight / headlamp is to emit light, I give a slight edge to the Wizard Nichia for better quality light.
And I can fully admit it! I noticed zero greenish tint, and 4500K is better value for me than 4000K. Just warmer than Skilhunt H03 Neutral, and just colder than Nicha or SST20, both 4000K.
The light is absolutely not small and light. In fact it’s one of the biggest right angle headlamps and it’s weight is on the edge of being uncomfortable.
The Nichia Wizard is only around 100lm dimmer then the 1400lm Wizard Pro WW, very good result.
Finally someone points out the fact the o-rings get displaced too easily when tightening the tailcap.
Timed stepdown is a major flaw for a “premium” headlamp.
The AT UI is 1000 times more usable in a headlamp them Anduril.
The virence.com Wizard’s are indeed better, simply due the fact of the higher R9 and being modded PRO models thus heaving thermal stepdown.
Zebralight H600Fc Mk IV is crap and I used to be a ZL fanboy. Horrible tint and a whole barrage of hidden bugs.
That’s because I and my friends bought all of them :sunglasses:
Unfortunately 4 of them have the d240 4000K E21A. That means they are basically a Wizard Pro with 4 SST-20’s in them… :person_facepalming:
I wouldn’t buy a headlamp with anduril, when I want to use a headlamp I want it to stay at the brightness I set it at , I can’t be doing with a firmware stepping the light down for me especially if it doesn’t step back up to where it’s suppose to be , that’s why I use zebra lights.
I dont’ understand. Are you saying the Virence.com Wiard Pro models don’t have thermal step down or timed step down? Isn’t this Nichia 144A version also the Wizard PRO? I thought the only difference between this new model and the older Wizard Pro model is just the LED. The driver and everything remains the same.
The D240 looks better than the SST-20 at low modes though but high mode is just on the BBL. You should be able to reproduce the D220 4000K tint by mixing the D220 3500K and D220 4500K. Both of these are tested to have negative DUV. Though I don’ have the Virence.com Wizard Pros, I’m extremely happy with the Virence.com Tiara Pros and I prefer the Tiaras because of the more efficient driver. I value driver efficiency and good regulation alot because I use these lights on a daily basis and ceiling bounce them often so the Tiaras are better tools than the Wizard.
Yes, but o-ring in my older Wizard now seems to hold in place much better than it did at first. This is a drawback, though.
I’m pretty sure this Wizard Nichia has thermal step down. Will check to be sure.
You mean Tira C1 Pro has more efficient driver? I thought there is no difference between those two drivers in term of efficiency.
PRO has thermal stepdown
Nichia seems to timed stepdown
Yea I haven’t tested it myself to confirm. I don’t even have the Virence.com Wizard Pro. However that’s what Clemence told me. I think the 3V buck driver in the Tiara C1 is more efficient than the 6V boost driver in the Wizard Pro. Personally, I love how well the Tiara regulates output and with 18650 optional tube, it last a very long time for my use so I think it is pretty efficient. I know the Olight, Nitecore, and Fenix have even more efficient drivers though but their emitter options suck and they usually lack the useful moonlight/fireflies mode.
Wizard Pro is 12V actually. Don’t ask me why.
that may be a con for one who understand all the results of this.
ability to turn light on and on on max brighntess in case of need. and possibility to burn insides )
anyway, surprised Armytech did something good. at least it seems so from review
most of feedback i met about Armytech was that they produce crappy things. and almost zero reviews of flashlights from such large and known brand (here at BLF) also feels like people dont want to mess with armytechs
What does “Limited Edition” mean for this headlamp? Is Armytek going to discontinue it very soon?
No, I don’t think so… 
It is too good to be limited
Good review. Its only available on the official store?
I got higher values from XHP50 than you, but lower from 144A. For Nichia I got 1345lm at start but 1245 @2s
Uch, pretty close though. Never mind :FACEPALM:
There seems to be unit to unit variations. Your Wizard 144A at 1345lumens is in between what I measured for the two different units 1388 lumens and 1339 lumens.
Which XHP50 version did you get and when? If you read my post, AT switched the WW version with an 80CRI version which is what I got.
Maukka measured his H600fc MKIV at 1124lumens at 30s whereas I measured mine at 1312 lumens at 30s. Mine was recently bought. I’m not sure if they modified the firmware in my version or used a more efficient emitter. I read ZL have been revising the MKIV firmware since release.
I have neutral white XHP50 and got 1665lm at start.
So small differences, I don’t even care about that. +/- 100lm, whatever. It is only @1s though, and brightness fall down quickly. I’m getting ~ 5% more brightness than you with XHP50 and ~ 5% less with 144A.
They changed WW version to 4000K…maybe they will send me one.
Have had one of these for a couple of weeks. Happy with it overall, inclusive of discount code, but the UI is a bit goofy (& the green indicator flashes are super unnecessary). Also, while the emitter is very nice, it’s hardly what I would call “warm,” just NW.
I got really used to the UI after using it daily and have no problem with it. In fact it is 2nd nature to me now and I like it. However, it is not easy to use for muggles.
The annoying blinking green light can be turned off. It should be in the manual. If not do a search online.