TK's Emisar D4V2 review

Dumb question: Are those SST-20 in A120 package, i.e. (hopefully) replaceable with Nichia 219B? Do standard Carclo optics delivered with the D4V2 fit the 219B? Not sure if I should risk reflowing four LEDs at once (only did two emitter swaps thus far), but a 219B Emisar would be something.

The LEDs are XP-sized, or a 3535 footprint. This type of pad is compatible with all Cree XP-series LEDs, Nichia 219, and the SST-20… among others.

However, it’s strongly recommended that you use a weak battery and/or significantly reduce the maximum PWM value for the FET channel when using 219B in a direct-drive light like this. The 219B doesn’t tolerate direct drive from high-amp cells for very long before it turns into smoke.

I’d flash your Andúril-version for Nichia before swapping emitters.

I noticed there have been some recent updates to Anduril in the repository. What has changed between 09-28 and 12-17?

https://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/fsm/changes

That might still run too hot though, since it’s calibrated for 219C instead of 219B. The newer emitter can handle a lot more power.

I just got one of these. How do you turn off the rainbow mode when the light is off??? It is annoying!! :rage:

7 quick clicks will cycle through the different secondary modes.
6 quick clicks with a 7th click/hold will cycle through the colors.

Example to change through the modes:
click-click-click-click-click-click-click, pause. Repeat to go to the next mode.

Example to cycle though the colors of the current mode:
click-click-click-click-click-click-click and hold, release when desired color is showing.

And there is a similar configuration for locked out mode.

For off mode I use the battery indication mode, which I find quite useful. It displays blue aux LEDs as long as the battery is well charged, and after this displays green or even red.

Just for reference in case anyone else is wondering, I’m running a 60% FET max build on a FW3A with D220 219Bs without any issues and plan on running a 60% build on my D4v2 when I swap in a set of 219Bs. The 219 build variant posted in FSM is limited to 75% FET max iirc.

Thanks! That did the trick!! :+1:

FWIW, I’m hoping to make it default to voltage mode instead of rainbow mode.

Rainbow was a way to show off the RGB feature, but voltage mode is a lot more useful.

I like this plan! That is the auxiliary mode I normally use on all my lights.

Thanks a lot! Do you know the current that 60% translates to?

Now I have to find someone building the binary for me :person_facepalming:

Yes!

Is the 0-8-15 temperature regulation code already implanted in your sources?

Same here.

Forgive me if I missed this somewhere, but is this still an issue? I’ve noticed that my D4V2 Ti misses clicks sometimes. It’s kind of annoying when I try to unlock it, but instead change the aux mode. I love the light (and Anduril) otherwise, though!

I’ve noticed what may be considered a bug in Anduril. It occurs with my D4v2 and my FW1A. The issue is related to shortcutting to turbo from a ramping mode and then shortcutting back to ramping from turbo.

If the light is on at an arbitrary ramping level, a double click switches to turbo and then a second double click returns to ramping at the level it was last at. This seems to be the behavior regardless of the ramping level.

However, if I double click from off to shortcut to the highest ramping level, then double click a second time to turbo, and finally double click a third time to return to ramping, it sends me to the default ramp level (the single click from off level) rather than back to the highest ramp level from which I came.

Is Anduril supposed to behave this way?

Yes. Double click from off is a shortcut to temporary max ramp. The level is not remembered and next time you switch on the light it will return to the last used level (or to the manual memory level). When you return from turbo it will also return to this level.

I rewrote all the interrupt-related code in November to fix this and several other things which could occasionally happen. Any firmware from 2019-11-20 or newer should be a lot more reliable about the first click from off.

Those changes had an effect on thermal regulation though, so I’ve been working on replacing all the thermal code too.