2700K E21A has a low R9 value
I already ordered a 2000K module from Clemence so no need for 2700K.
The 3000K E21A is already a bit rosy by itself by my eyes adapt to it making it neutral so I want something even more rosy.
There is already a 2x2000K+2x3000K in my original post you quoted from.
I just tested the 2x2000K + 2x4000K for you. However, the 4000K is the more recent D240 batch, which has a DUV that is on the BBL instead of below the BBL like the older batch. Also this is installed in reflector lights that normally result in more greenish tint compared to TIR optic or beaded optic. If the same emitter was used in the HO4RC or Tiara with beaded optic, the DUV should be a bit more negative than these results.
The beauty of these headlamps from large manufacturers is the superior buck driver that is much more efficient and much better at regulating output than the typical FET drivers with Anduril we see in the Emisars, Lumintops, Astrolux, Fireflies lights. Unless Lexel has a buck driver with Anduril.
Ahhh, gotcha. Probably wouldn’t want an FET driver with these emitters. Pardon the n00b questions. I just like a ramping interface but I’m sure these will have good mode spacing. Does the H04 driver have a good moonlight?
UPDATE 200129: GB Interest list will be closed on 200201, 00:00 GMT +8
Thanks for all the orders guys, I decided to close the interest list soon so I can start making the lights. Looks like waiting for 200pcs order would be too long. For those still undecided, you guys can get it later via my store.
All my photos in that thread are of my 3000K + 40000K (D220) virence.com Wizard Pro. It’s indeed very nice if that is what you are looking for. It’s warm but white is still mostly white, not orange by any means. Most probably due too the fact it’s obviously rosy. The colours are oversaturated due to the high RG, I personally love it but it can be overwhelming sometimes. Browns, reds and yellows “pop”.
Thanks for the effort SKV89. I’ll take the 2000K+4000K to my lend out Tiara to convert people to warm light and rosy tints. The 2000+3000K mix nicely shows the rosiness of the emitter has a bigger impact on the mix than the 1000K difference, knowing the 3000K E21A is quit rosy and the 2000K more neutral.
Your measurements are very valuable, consider putting them in a table like ZozzV6 did with his measurements.
That’s why I don’t really like the 2200K and 2700K versions because their DUV is pretty much 0 meaning they are on the BBL and not rosy like how I want it. I think very negative duv or rosiness is especially important in warm CCT because otherwise things look yellow. With negative DUV, whites still look white to my eyes even if the temp is very low. The 2000k E21A is an exception that I grew to like eventhough it is spot on the DUV. To me it mimics candle light and I only use it during sleep time where I want as little blue light as possible.
I thought about creating a massive compilation table of my flashlight measurements but problem is only very recently I started logging my measurements and the hundreds of flashlights I measured before I never recorded them and I don’t have time to retest them. I also gave away many of my older lights. Also tables are extremely hard to manage on BLF so editing tables as I add more measurements would be a huge pain.