Pulling the walls to the top, under the glass is a bad idea and you answered why. They are of different sizes. L4P are slightly thinner than e.g. Noctigons.
1mm flat rim is enough, just to center the mcpcb.
And instead of a glowing O-ring you can paste gitd tape from the inside and it looks good too.
I bought a quad spacer for Convoy S11 from you which have high walls. I wanted to put 4x Luxeon V there and I don’t know if I can just put the mcpcb on the thermal paste or I need to solder it.
If I put it on paste, I don’t know if the mcpcb will be properly pressed to dissipate heat. This is because the L4P quad is 1.6mm high and the Noctogin is 2mm.
If I have to solder it, I don’t know how to center the mcpcb, because it is 20mm, while the place is for 21mm Noctigon.
As far as I remember, you have S11 set (Cu spacer+brass ring). If you need to use thinner PCB, you can sand down the bottom of the brass ring. Also, you can fix brass ring on spacer in right place with a solder or thread locker. Anyway, if you are not sure in right combination, putting them together without solder/thermal paste/wiring is always a good idea.
You can use the central hole in spacer for PCB alignment. CNC made batches have 4.2mm hole, custom and rare parts have 4.0-4.1mm central hole. If you need, I can add a 4.2mm drill to your next order. Use work side (for undersized holes) or shank side (for 4.2mm holes).
1.5mm o-ring can be compressed by 0.3mm with ease, while thickest 20mm triple boards are 1.75mm thick.
I just don’t see another way to get optics centered. Parts are not aerospace precise and need some room for easy fit. I need to give some extra room, if the next batch of hosts will be made by another vendor, my spacers still should work.
Pill top is flat, a spacer is roughly centered inside head walls. PCBs are not perfect in size and roundness, also some of them don’t have chamfer at the bottom (this means I need to add at least 2x minimum tool radiuses to the ID size). All this gives a reasonable amount of side gap, and the build will always end up the same way - you will get optics off the bezel hole. This is not a problem for S2+ (when 1.5mm of optics hides inside bezel), but S21A bezel opening is 0.2mm over optics size - so you will see any misalignment and it will look awful.
Just wanted to say thanks to kiriba-ru that manufactured the copper pill and brass ring for my Amutorch VG10 that I will use in the OL contest!
Perfect pieces Thanks for your work!!!
Mr. Ru…
I’m looking for parts for S2+ and a C8. Throw throw throw throw. Don’t give a hoot’n’shit about CRI and I prefer blue-er light. Got anything in stock to fill the bill?
(I am aware of that thing called the ENTIRE EARTH in-between our locations, which I am fine with waiting on long shipping)
They can fit, but I don’t want to force my customers to make experiments with 2-legged optics.
Also, S21A bezel opening is just as big as needed for regular 20mm triple from Carclo. You can put quad and loose 25% output (inside bezel), or use triple and get as much as you can from triple.
Thanks for your work!!!
