That’s why I don’t really like the 2200K and 2700K versions because their DUV is pretty much 0 meaning they are on the BBL and not rosy like how I want it. I think very negative duv or rosiness is especially important in warm CCT because otherwise things look yellow. With negative DUV, whites still look white to my eyes even if the temp is very low. The 2000k E21A is an exception that I grew to like eventhough it is spot on the DUV. To me it mimics candle light and I only use it during sleep time where I want as little blue light as possible.
I thought about creating a massive compilation table of my flashlight measurements but problem is only very recently I started logging my measurements and the hundreds of flashlights I measured before I never recorded them and I don’t have time to retest them. I also gave away many of my older lights. Also tables are extremely hard to manage on BLF so editing tables as I add more measurements would be a huge pain.
I’m going to order a second HO4 but I can’t decide on the tint. Part of me wants to try something whacky like 2000K, 3000K, 4000K, and 5000K and then part of me wants to do 3000K + 4000K since I know that’s gorgeous.
Depends on your needs. For all in one general applications where true colors matters, 5000K is best. For color critical, 5700K is the best. For applications when there’s the need to check which white is white, 6500K works best. CW has the most balanced color spectrum although things don’t look as pretty and appealing as under WW.
Price should be the same, but shipping won’t be free anymore
I tested quadtrix E17A and it’s only a tad wider than the OEM XML2 which is too narrow for my liking for a general purpose headlamp. Runners would love it.