I recently got the L21A with XHP35, which is single cell as well.
On turbo i measured more than 9 Amps! according Convoy.AE it should do 2,3A to the LED
So it roughly makes an efficiency of around 75%
I bought some boost drivers from Convoy that are perhaps the same ones that are in your L21A, I used them for a GT40 led (also 12V) but at highest setting I get a pretty annoying whine. Does your L21A have a whine also?
2 days ago I modded 2 lights and made my current EDC set!
On the Panda White Tool AA V2.0 I put a: pebbled optic, a Luxeon V2 3000K from led4power, a 15mm driver with Bistro HD OTSM from Lexel , a rubber tailcap from On The Road i3 , and a blue acqua GITD tube from CRX. The dangler and the skull are from AliExpress stores. The lighted switch was put on this light by Henk4U2 from whom I won the light
On the Convoy S2+ mini, I put: a lighted tailswitch from Convoy, a blue ruber tailcap from Kaidomain (AliExpress store), a pocket clip from the Nitefox ES10K (that I modded with butane lighter to modify the colour), a 17mm driver with Bistro HD OTSM from Lexel that I bought a while ago and that I had in use in another flashlight,, a Carclo 10511 from Nealsgadgets, a triple board with 3 XP-G2 S4-5A from Jaxman, and a blue acqua GITD gasket from CRX! The pill + spacer (from kiriba-ru) were already soldered before as seen on the indicated link!
All the lights have the same UI configured: Mode 9 of Bistro HD OTSM [ ONE7135, 0, //9: Basic Non-PWM ~150 lumen low regulated mode] + Moonlight + access to hidden Turbo and blinkies !
Finally I am having EDC flashlights as I want and need them!
Thanks my friend
BTW, even not being 90CRI, the Luxeon V2 3000K produces a beautiful beam and has an amazing tint In photo it cannot be shown perfectly! This is an LED youâd probably appreciate too
Working on a buddies GT, converting it to the SBT-90 Gen 2. Making the battery carrier parallel wasnât as bad as I thought it would be, for the driver I simply carved down a Q8 driver a little and swapped the FET for an Infineon then flashed Anduril. Close now!
Edit: forgot to mention that I removed the brass donut connecting ring on the Q8 driver and put the brass button from the GTâs driver in the center.
Nop, not glued, only snapped in! Fits perfectly and doesnât get out of the place Been carrying it for some days in this configuration and had 0 problems wit it, including no accidental activation!
Looks like, on some older 30Qâs, it does some 5040 lumens at start, makes 1.58Mcd in a 5M test. If the weather allows Iâll try to get a 30M lux test tonight and a beamshot or threeâŚ
First was my S3. It has a CREE XM-L2 4250-4500K LED and an AR lens. The beam was not the best with lots of artifacts and a greenish ring. I didnât use it much, except for outside. I tried switching to a non-AR lens and a different reflector, but the beam was not much better. Then I decided to make a diffused lens from some acrylic spacers that I kept from a storage container:
What a huge difference that made! No artifacts and I even see some rosiness now.
Second was my S2+ clear (silver) with a Samsung LH351D 4000K 90+ CRI LED. Iâve worked on it before to clean up the beam with a different reflector, but it still had some artifacts. So I replaced the non-AR lens with the same acrylic lens and it made a big improvement, but made the beam too diffused. So I took the AR lens from the S3 and sanded one side with 60 grit sandpaper. That turned out to be perfect - no artifacts, but still had some throw.
Left S2+, right S3:
Sure I know Iâve lost some lumens doing to this, but itâs worth it to me to have great beams! And after all, these are EDCs, so the emphasis on beams is more important than lumens.
I made a PD charger deliver 5vdc through a c-to-c cable to a device previously only able to be charged a-to-c. I know what youâre thinking. You wish you could solder like me!
Yeah so I started here and dropped two 5.1k ohm resistors to ground and got 5vdc at the vbus just to test the theory. Other resistor is on the reverse. So a resistor from each cc pin to ground does release 5vdc from the PD charger. Check.
Then I got out my exacto and cut up this:
Now question for you⌠you can see that the two cc pins are actually attached here to vbus. I cut them off vbus, isolated them and then grounded them through the resistors. So questions: A) why were they tied into vbus to begin with? And B) does my design do something dangerous? I went through a charge cycle and it seems to work. AndâŚâŚ
Canât answer your questions Prplxt, it is not my expertise Iâm afraid.
Not today but yesterday I checked the 5700K 90CRI Samsung LH351D leds that I got from Kaidomain in a Nightseeker NSX3. The reflector holes in this flashlight are an unusual 7.5mm and Nightseeker did not bother with fitting centerpieces, they used standard 7mm ones that do not center the leds very well. But with the big die of the LH351D this is not problematic for the beam.
I did not like the stock user interface (always starting on a blinding turbo )so I replaced the driver with a good old BLF-A6 driver (from Banggood) soldered into a 17mm->22mm brass adapter (from the Convoy store).
As you may notice in the picture, I did the voltage-spike fix suggested by DEL, even though this driver (unlike the related X5/X6 driver) does not suffer from the drop out of turbo problem.
Even though I did the usual resistance reduction measures, spring bypasses and shortened led wires, the current draw and output on the maximum setting (that is basically direct drive) were a bit less than hoped: 12.5A and 2900 lumen, there was not much difference between a 40T and 30T battery. Apparently the voltage of this led is relatively high.
But Iâm happy with the 2900 high CRI lumen in this mod, makes for a pretty nice flashlight.
The beam is nice, a floody hotspot that gradually dims into the spill without obvious tint changes (the reflectors are light OP).
The tint is an attractive cool white, close enough to the BBL, also at low current, and colour reproduction is as expected very good. In the hotspot at 350mA: CRI=92.7,R9=55,CCT=5330,duv=+0.0031, at max 12.5A: CRI=90.6,R9=45,CCT=5750,duv=+0.0040. The lime-coloured AR-coating on the front glass may have had an influence on the tint.