[Sale] Buck drivers 20, 21, 22, 24, 30mm L6, MF01, MF02/04(S), TN40S/42, BLF GT, Acebeam X45/65

[JasonWW]

@rngwn

@JasonWW

How are you going to feed 12v in a C8 size light? Double battery tube and run 4 18350?

I’d prefer a boost driver for single 18650. I’m running one in C8 with single 18650, but the size isn’t right (22mm vs 20mm) and the mode switching doesn’t work properly after sanding down.
So I just want to run C8 with some 20mm proper.

Okay, your asking the wrong person. Lexel doesn’t have any boost drivers. You need to talk to Richard at MTN E.

[WelshDan]

Hi Lexel,

Could you PM me with a price please?

I’d like to order a buck driver to replace the stock one in my MF04S, with Berylliumbronze springs and gold plated button soldered and Anduril flashed onto it, shipped to UK please.

Thanks

[Amiran]

Hi Lexel,

Do you have driver to replace the one in Convoy M3 (XHP70.2, side button, Ø26mm 1S battery)

Thanks!

[Wieselflinkpro]

As I know are his boost drivers not ready yet.
That means, he has no driver for a 6V LED in this flashlight, if you dont want to use 26350 batteries.

[killingtime]

Hi, do these buck drivers work without the e-switch?

I’m looking for a 3S (12.6v) buck driver to go in an old C cell maglite with an xhp50 6v.

1 switch. Power is either on or off. No press and hold.

Thanks.

EDIT

According to this post from Lexel, the answer is yes, if the components and software can be changed.

Looking for a high current 20mm buck driver

I have fitting buck drivers up to 8A for 2S Yes but as far as I’ve heard these are e-switch drivers, running with NarsilM 1.2 that require a side switch like the Convoy L6. The L2 is a tailclicky only. who is telling this? I always sold clicky and e-switch drivers difference is at most a few parts and rest just firmware

Would you be happy to sell such a driver?

[Lexel]

I always sell drivers with e-switch or tail clicky assembly depending on how it is ordered

[killingtime]

@Lexel

I always sell drivers with e-switch or tail clicky assembly depending on how it is ordered

Thanks for the reply.

If you sell a driver configured for a tail clicky, how does the UI change? There is no press and momentary hold option in this config, so … Narsil and Anduril require a hold facility to work to full spec. Do you just omit any press & hold functionality or replace it with something else?

[Tom_E]

Lexel provides firmware accordingly - NarsilM and Anduril are e-switch versions. You have to use clicky firmware for clicky lights, like Bistro, A6, etc.

[Lexel]

@killingtime

@Lexel

I always sell drivers with e-switch or tail clicky assembly depending on how it is ordered

Thanks for the reply.

If you sell a driver configured for a tail clicky, how does the UI change? There is no press and momentary hold option in this config, so … Narsil and Anduril require a hold facility to work to full spec. Do you just omit any press & hold functionality or replace it with something else?

There are very few lights that have an inner tube to move an e-switch to the tail like FW3A or many tactical Klarus lights

Mechanical tail switch means no e-switch firmware and the other way around

Bistro OTSM refuses to run on drivers with input capacitors like buck drivers have, so good old Bistro has to be used

[goshdogit]

@MoreLumens

If I get driver and swap TN40S’s leds to XHP35 Hi’s how much more lumens and throw I would get?

Vinh at SkyLumen has some specs comparing the stock XP-L HI to XHP35, but I’m not sure if that includes other changes to the driver.

Vinh is very friendly and I’m sure he’d verify the specs and answer any other questions if you email him.

[Lexel]

@goshdogit

@MoreLumens

If I get driver and swap TN40S’s leds to XHP35 Hi’s how much more lumens and throw I would get?

Vinh at SkyLumen has some specs comparing the stock XP-L HI to XHP35, but I’m not sure if that includes other changes to the driver.

Vinh is very friendly and I’m sure he’d verify the specs and answer any other questions if you email him.

The stock driver delivers 4A, so the XHP-35 are very mildly driven, for a mod with one of my drivers I would go to 7-8A
to have some overhead voltage to regulate and keep within my specs I know the driver starts to sound very unfriendly at about 11A

[Lexel]

I build quite a lot of drivers this weekend, I am a bit puzzled have here a 42mm DD+N+1 drivers build but can’t find the responding PM who ordered them

[CNCman]

Good job Lexel we all Thank You for all you do for us
Thanks to you my water cooled MT35 PLUS is Great, I am very Happy with its performance and the water pump functions perfectly that you took time and effort to add power from the driver. I just got equipment to check the amperage.
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[Tom_E]

Lexel - wondering if you might consider a driver replacement for the Amutorch E3 and E3S. They are a uni-body light design with 2 screws to mount the driver, and virtually no space above the driver components. I'd say a FET+1 would work best. Even if you do a driver layout that could be ordered on OSHPark would be fine. If you don't have one, I could provide details and pics, though the screw holes might be tricky to get measured accurately.

Here's a pic:

Also has a driver mounted switch as shown. It's roughly in the 21-22 mm diameter size.

[Lexel]

I could modify a design for a small time compensation payment
It should not be hard to measure the holes, the switch makes me more to think about as it needs to be placed precise

[Tom_E]

Probably true about the switch. I thought OSHPark has issues close to the edge, so not sure about using OSHPark for this one.

What are you thinking of? Just a board layout/OSHPark thing or a complete driver?

[Lexel]

you can always make the OshPark PCB 0.35mm bigger and then manually grind it to copper edge

[Tom_E]

True, guess you don't have one of these lights? I would take two. Not sure if there's more interest. So are you think'n of just the board or complete driver?

[Quadrupel]

Fet+ 1? I can draw it easily. Just need right measurements.

[Lexel]

@Quadrupel

Fet+ 1? I can draw it easily. Just need right measurements.

Drawing this is not the main problem, it’s getting a compatible or the same switch, so that the pressure point is the same