That is the default behavior. Top of the ramp is the highest brightness for LT1.
This is for the FW3A. All three originally required a double click to turbo, and now one of them doesn’t. It just ramps to turbo without a double click.
You may have accidentally clicked 4 times while on and reset the ramp levels. Look a few posts above to reset it.
It worked, Jason. You are a genius! Thanks for the help.
Whoops, wrong thread.
All of a sudden my button is starting to feel a little crunchy. I’ve never been brave enough to take the bottom cap off to check anything.
It’s very easy. Just make sure you don’t loose the little black nub. There are videos showing how it goes together.
Yeah, just keep it facing up when you take it apart so nothing falls out. A white cloth underneath helps, and a tweezers for the nubbin.
I haven’t had mine very long so hopefully I got one with the retaining ring. Aren’t all models now supposed to have them?
It is a production change, but they don’t just throw away old inventory. So there might be a chance someone gets an older version.
So I just got an 18350 tube from Illumn for my first production run FW3A, and can’t get the light to work with the short tube, I’ve taken it completely apart and cleaned everything before reassembling to no avail.
Wondering if anyone else has seen this and maybe an easy fix like lapping the inner tube a bit shorter or adding a small spacer in the threads to fix length issues?
Is there a battery length issue?
Not that I can tell at least, I only have unprotected 18350 (the black keeppower high drain ones), the light does the ‘I’m connected’ quick flash when the head is screwed on about half way, but once tightened there is no response from the switch.
Make sure to loosen the head, then tighten the tail firmly, then tighten the head.
If still no switch contact, the battery might be a bit too long. Does it have a button top? Does it look like the button is being smashed in?
I don’t know what battery length they recommend, but you might try measuring your cell to see if it’s too long. I’m guessing someone knows the recommended 18350 length. You might try a 16340 cell if you have one.
Maybe others have tried that cell and can comment if it works or not.
I had the same issue with my 18650 battery. Contrary to what for most helps, I had to loosen the inner tail retaining ring (which holds down the switch) around one turn (360°). Now the light works fine and very stable.
I was wondering if anyone knows if this is normal.
If I leave my FW3T off for a period of time (overnight) it becomes non responsive. I have to remove and replace the head and it works fine for the rest of the day.
Not a big deal but kind of weird.
Thanks.
Loosen or remove?
“Loosen” might mean the contacts are a bit dirty or just barely touching. Cleaning all threads (remove lube on threads maybe?) and the ends of the inner tube might help. Tightening the head a bit more may also help.
“Remove” means the power needs to be reset.
It is not normal.
I’m not too familiar with the cause of that. Maybe a MCU issue? IDK.
This is the titanium version, right? I’m assuming titanium has good electrical conductivity and doesn’t easily oxidize. I don’t know much about that version.
By removing the head it resets the flashlight, I have cleaned the threads and tighten the tail cap then the head. Everything works fine. It’s almost like it’s in momentary mode and to get out you have to reset the light to get it back to normal, but in my case there is no visible light at all until I reset it.
It’s the titanium version
It’s a strange issue. Maybe someone here can explain it.
unfortunately mine is the first version of the FW3A that has no retaining ring in the tail, perhaps this is the cause of the issue that I am having.